In The Field: Elekon Batlogger S2

The Batlogger S2 is a compact passive recorder manufactured by Elekon. This all-in-one static bat detector and ultrasonic recorder is designed to be left unattended in the field over several nights to survey and monitor bats. The S2 is operated solely via Bluetooth and the BATLOGGER Control App (available on iOS and Android). It is small, weighing only 138g and measuring 132 x 72 x 35mm, but despite its size, the S2 is robust. It is waterproof and replacement microphones are also available, handy if the original microphone becomes damaged or loses sensitivity. 

Elekon has designed the S2 to be easy to use and lightweight, and built to withstand fieldwork conditions. We took the opportunity on a warm evening in mid-May to test the S2’s ability.

How we tested

The S2 was set up in a hedgerow in South Devon, close to a small known roosting site.

We connected the S2 to the BATLOGGER Control App on an iPhone via Bluetooth. Once connected, the S2 determines the dusk and dawn times using the GPS location from the phone/tablet, and suggests these as automatic trigger times. We selected this automatic time window, but, you can choose and customise your own and set multiple time windows as needed. 

The S2 is full spectrum with a range of 10-150kHz and a sample rate of 312.5 kHz. The default sensitivity is balanced, and we adjusted the sensitivity to ‘high’ using the App. This may lead to several unwanted calls in busier environments; however, it also ensures that it is triggered by most types of bat call, including social calls, which can sometimes be missed. 

Once collected from the field after one night of deployment, the recordings were downloaded from the S2 to a computer using the USB-C to USB-C cable (if you do not have a USB-C port, you’ll need an adaptor). Helpfully, the S2 is charged using the same USB-C cable – a single charge provides 100 hours of power!

The recordings are stored on an internal microSD card, and the S2 generates two file types: an audio file (.wav) and a recording information file (.xml). The audio files allow you to listen to your recordings through bat call analysis software and the information files store important metadata such as date, location, recording time, and device settings.

What we found

The BATLOGGER Control App shows you the number of sessions recorded – the high sensitivity triggered 192 audio files over one night. We used the BatExplorer software to manage and view the S2 recordings. The software has key features such as automatic bat call detection, making sorting files very easy, and it also provides suggestions for species identification. 

Of the 192 audio files, 40 of these identified the common pipistrelle (Pipistrellus pipistrellus). The default S2 sensitivity is ‘balanced’, this may have led to a smaller number of unwanted files (which recorded sounds other than bats). But we did not want to miss a bat call and the BatExplorer software allows you to quickly filter the unwanted files.

The echolocation frequency for common pipistrelles is approximately 45kHz, and the below images show an example of the spectrogram and call measures from a common pipistrelle recording taken at dusk and the information popout that BatExplorer produces, detailing the automatic analysis that the software carries out. 

Below is an audio clip with its accompanying spectrogram of a common pipistrelle taken at dusk. The BatExplorer software allows you to customise the playback and how the spectrogram can be viewed. 

Our opinion

The physical design and key features of the S2 makes surveying bats a simple task. 

The S2 truly is discrete and lightweight, making it easy to set up in the field, and once deployed the battery life will allow up to 10 (10 hour) consecutive nights of surveying. 

The setup through the BATLOGGER Control App is straightforward. The S2 conveniently uses the GPS location on your phone/tablet to determine dusk and dawn which benefits the accuracy of the recording schedules. You can choose your settings at a click of a button, and the instruction manual is clear and accessible for any help needed.  

The only limitation we found is that you cannot access the recordings straight from the App. However, transferring the files across to your computer allows you to listen to and analyse the audio files with ease. The BatExplorer software (available on a 30-day free trial) enhances analysis as it allows you to review, manage, and organise your recordings. 

The S2 is an impressive bat detector, and it is an ideal choice for professionals and ecological surveyors.


The Elekon Batlogger S2 can be found here. Our full range of passive full spectrum bat detectors can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

 

Trail Camera Tips and Troubleshooting: Part 2

Whether you enjoy watching and learning about the wildlife that visits your garden, capturing footage of secretive wildlife on a holiday, or undertaking research on a rare species, there is no substitute for investing in a trail camera.

Browning Spec Ops Elite HP4

How and where you set up your trail camera has a significant impact on how successful your results will be. In this blog, we cover some key tips on how to best position your camera, choosing the ideal location, and which settings to use in different circumstances. If you are experiencing issues with your camera, check out part one of this series where we discuss the initial steps we advise you to take to help resolve or identify the problem.

Camera Settings

As a rule, it’s always best to become familiar with your camera and its different settings and capabilities by testing it at home before using it out in the field. Familiarising yourself particularly with the detection range, detection angle, the focal distance and the IR flash distance is the best way to help you gauge how far to place the camera from where you hope to see wildlife.

On most modern trail cameras there is the option to adjust the passive infrared sensors (PIR) which, along with motion detection, causes the camera to trigger. For most circumstances, having the sensor sensitivity set to high and the motion detection set to long-range will be the best option to avoid any disappointment from captures of only part of an animal, or missing something altogether.

Browning Spec Ops Elite HP4

If you are focusing on birds or fast-moving mammals, such as mustelids or rodents, then the highest sensitivity setting and the fastest trigger speed (if adjustable), is very important. For larger and often slow-moving mammals, such as deer and ungulates, sometimes a slower trigger speed and reduced sensitivity can be better as the camera will then only trigger once the animal is more centrally positioned in the detection zone.
Some species have quite insulated bodies (hedgehogs for instance, due to their spikes), creating more of a challenge for the camera’s sensors, so again the highest sensor setting would be best for such species.

With high sensor sensitivity comes the increased chance of false triggers as well as high battery and memory usage, which can be exacerbated in windy conditions as moving trees, grass and falling leaves can all trigger the sensors. It is therefore worth choosing locations for your camera with minimal, light vegetation to avoid potential false triggers.

With many trail cameras, there is now the option to set the camera to only trigger during certain times of day. This is particularly helpful if you are targeting certain wildlife that you know to be strictly nocturnal or diurnal. In most other situations though, we would recommend keeping the camera set to trigger on 24 hours, so you don’t miss anything unexpected.

Location

When choosing where to leave your camera, the first consideration will be around security, and ideally, you want to ensure that the location chosen is not visible to the public.

Then, there are two main factors to consider when deciding on a specific location. Firstly, is there a particular species you have in mind, or do you wish to survey or monitor the general wildlife of a site.

Image by Ian Watson-Loyd

If you hope to capture a particular species, then consider its habits and where it is most likely to be spending time within the landscape.

Many mammals have large home ranges but also have routines they regularly follow, even if that means only passing through a certain spot very infrequently, so some patience is usually necessary.

To increase your chances, think about how that species might move through the habitat and which areas they will be most drawn to, for example where there are reliable food resources, sources of water, good resting and denning sites, and existing pathways through vegetation.

It is also worth looking for any evidence that the target species is already present, such as tracks, droppings or feeding signs. These signs may reveal an animal’s movements and highlight an area they are currently frequenting where the camera could be left.

If you are investigating what species are present on a site, focusing on areas with high levels of activity is key. Most mammals will leave signs of their presence in prominent areas that tend to be used by other species too. The scent of one species will often attract the attention of another, particularly if it is a competitor.

Many terrestrial mammals move through the landscape in a similar way to people; they will often follow linear features and use paths of least resistance to avoid travelling through very dense undergrowth or steep terrain. In forests, most mammals also prefer to use trails and pathways already made by other species or people. This helps to avoid constantly brushing through vegetation, particularly after recent rainfall, when the understory foliage will be wet.

Image by Ian Watson-Loyd

Natural woodland clearings and rides, habitat edges and watercourses are all key areas to focus on, particularly for larger mammals. For smaller species that prefer to keep close to cover, consider old walls, hedges, boulder fields and scree, and fallen trees.

Within these habitats, it is worth looking out for particularly prominent features to set your camera up. Features to look for include natural bridges over water, shallow spots for drinking and bathing, or a conspicuous large tree or boulder that carnivores might use for leaving their scent or droppings when marking their territory.

Therefore, if you find a location with lots of activity, it can be worthwhile continuing to monitor it for a long period, as some species with large territories, such as apex predators and some mesopredators (medium-sized), may only pass by very occasionally.

It can sometimes be a challenge to find something suitable to attach your camera to once you have found a suitable location. A Python Mini Cable Lock is the best all-rounder for both security and flexibility when attaching the camera to a tree, post or even rocks. However, there are times when a tripod or tree bracket can be more suitable. Sometimes adding a wedge of wood between the camera and a branch can be a good solution to ensuring the camera is angled straight if all the suitable trees and branches around are tilted.

Lastly, it is best to try to conceal your scent as much as possible during the deployment of your trail camera, as too much human smell could deter some wildlife from the area, so give the camera a clean before and during deployment and consider wearing gloves as you set it up.

Positioning

It is best to avoid facing your camera directly east or west, as this can overexpose images as the sun rises and sets. Sometimes extreme brightness can also cause false triggers as the light and shadows move.

Most trail cameras will have a standard focal distance of around 1.5 to 2 metres, so it is important to allow this much distance between the camera and the area you hope to record activity. For small mammals, a close focus lens can be attached over the front of the camera lens to allow you to take sharp images at a closer range. This works best if you are specifically targeting small mammals such as rodents or shrews within an enclosed space, for example a hole in a wall, log pile or small clearing in dense vegetation where all the activity will be at close range.

Also consider how far away an animal might pass the camera too, particularly when thinking about nocturnal activity and the distance the flash comfortably covers. Although many cameras have impressive detection and flash ranges, the resulting images and videos can still be frustrating if the animal passing is too far away to identify. Factors such as a dense overhead forest canopy, moonlight and cloud cover can also all impact a flash’s results. Ideally, opt for a position where animals will most likely pass around 3–10 metres away. 

The detection angle of most trail cameras is around 45° degrees, so it is best that the spot you think most activity will occur should be central within your cameras’ field of view.

It is important to also angle the camera at the correct height for your intended wildlife. If the camera is angled too high or too low, it will miss some species or result in unsatisfactory images of only part of an animal.

A good guideline for many situations is to angle your camera at around adult human knee height to capture small to medium-sized animals at their height rather than looking down on them. Sometimes trail cameras do need to be positioned higher in various circumstances, but try to avoid human head height as this will draw more attention to the camera.

Most high-quality trail cameras now have large screens that allow you to check in real-time what the camera can see as you position it. This is an invaluable tool to ensure your positioning, distance, height and view are just right.

Aquatic Wildlife

Image by Ian Watson-Loyd

For species that use watercourses, successful camera trapping can be even more challenging. One of the considerations is how to safely and securely position a camera close to or above water. Generally, the best option to avoid any risk to the camera and potential false triggers is to focus on prominent banks, sandbars, culverts, beaches or shallow water edges. With these locations it should be easier to position the camera at a safe distance back from the water while overlooking a spot where aquatic mammals and birds are also more likely to investigate, feed, drink or leave their scent or droppings.

With rivers particularly, it is important to ensure the camera is a little higher off the ground in case of unexpected water level rises, and so sometimes a downward-facing angle is more suitable. For otters, large rocks or fallen trees can be popular spots for scent marking, while a small clearing or mound within dense vegetation or reeds is often favoured by water voles. For beavers, an exposed bank and beach close to a favoured food source is often a good option.

Image by Ian Watson-Loyd

Summary

When thinking about setting up your trail camera, for best results we recommend taking the following into consideration:

  • The target species, their behaviour and habitat usage
  • Settings to reflect the above (and testing at home before deploying in the field)
  • The angle of the camera, taking into account flora, angles of the sun and where the animals are likely to be within the camera’s viewing area
  • Aiming for your focal species to pass the camera at a distance of 3-10m 
  • Generally positioning the camera at human knee height works well

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the use of your trail camera, please feel free to get in touch with our Wildlife Equipment Specialist team via email at customer.services@nhbs.com.

 

In The Field: Kowa TSN-501 Spotting Scope

As spring starts getting into swing, it’s time to begin looking forward to the summer birding season. With the gradual relaxation of international travel rules and things seeming to get safer, many of us are considering birding trips for the first time in years. Whether the venue be the sea cliffs of Anglesey, the wide mud flats of Essex and Suffolk or the dramatic heights of the Pyrenees, having the right kit for the job is at the forefront of every birder’s mind.

Kowa Optics holds an interesting place among birding brands. In the UK, at least, they have seemingly not had the name recognition of other big-brand, high-end optics suppliers until recently, and yet their reputation among serious hobbyists is largely unrivalled. Uniquely, Kowa have pioneered the construction of spotting scope lenses from pure fluorite crystal, a hard-to-work-with material that is peerless in its light dispersing properties. Though this technology comes with a hefty additional price tag, the quality of image that it produces has made waves across the birding sphere.

In addition to their high-end, pure fluorite optics, Kowa offers a range of more entry level equipment for those looking to acquire a quality scope or pair of binoculars at a competitive price. Among their more popular offerings are two compact spotting scopes – the entry level multi-coated TSN-500 series and the high-end, pure fluorite crystal TSN-550 series. The TSN-500 20x-40x range is a veteran of the birding market, having been around in one form or another for years now, but are updated fairly regularly in keeping with new technological advances. Compact, robust, and with a great reputation, they have a strong appeal for travelling birders and outdoor sportspeople. We were thrilled to get our hands on the Kowa TSN-501 – the angled model in the range – to see how it performs.

First Impressions

When the box is opened, the first thing you notice about the TSN-501 is how truly compact it is. Somehow, promotional images just don’t do it justice. At less than 25cm long and weighing in at just 400g, portability certainly won’t be an issue. There was much oohing in the NHBS office when it was unboxed.

The plastic casing is good quality and feels pleasant in the hand. The neoprene cover that can be purchased separately is well worth it too, providing that little bit of extra protection that will allow you to carry the TSN-501 around with confidence.

The lens caps are secure, though they don’t have the provision to be attached to the body when not in place. The focus wheel is placed comfortably so that the user can turn it while steadying the scope with their palm. It’s beautifully smooth, with no discernible kickback and minimal resistance. The image can be magnified between 20x and 40x by rotating the eyepiece – this was quite stiff on the model tested, but while this could be frustrating it does ensure that the zoom doesn’t shift during use. There are no click-stops, as is fairly usual among spotting scopes, but two white markers indicate when the magnification is at 25x and 35x respectively.

The extendable eyecup is made from softer rubber and is comfortable on the eye. It is also fine enough that it is possible to use a phone or similar device to take photographs through the lens at a pinch. This can be made easier with Kowa’s extensive range of digiscoping accessories.

How We Tested

One rather cold day in March we took the Kowa TSN-501 angled scope down to the River Dart that runs alongside NHBS’s offices in Devon. Alongside some casual birding while we had the chance, we set up a more formal test of its capabilities, with natural markers chosen at intervals to see how the optics perform at different ranges. We also made sure to note how performance differed when the objects viewed were backed by the bright sky, reflective water and darker ground. Effects such as chromatic aberration – the fringing of a dark object with a faint halo of colour – can be particularly pronounced against bright backgrounds, so it was important to test the unit in a range of conditions.

We used a Velbon CX 444 tripod – a rather heavy model that felt like overkill for such a light scope! Still, it attached painlessly and securely, thanks to Kowa’s universal tripod mount, and helped offset any shaking that the wind might have caused.

What We Found

The Kowa TSN-501 performed well for us, providing a consistently clear, bright and fairly aberration-free viewing experience across all conditions tested. Unavoidably, it does have a small field of view, especially when zoomed in to 40x, so it’s best used in conjunction with a pair of binoculars.

That said, the quality of the image really can’t be overstated for a scope of this price. I found it to be easily comparable with full-size scopes of a similar price and probably rivalling those of higher price brackets too. It doesn’t quite measure up to the quality of ED (extra-low dispersal) glass but is about as good an image as you’ll find in non-ED optics. The colours are well represented, and the image is clear and bright with excellent contrast. You’d struggle to follow a bird in flight, and there is noticeable distortion around the periphery of the image, but for observing stationary or slower moving subjects, it makes an ideal tool. I had no trouble following mergansers as they moved across the surface of the water, or wagtails hopping across the weir. During the trial, I wondered whether it might especially suit ornithological surveyors or other professionals who need to identify species rather than make detailed observations at the highest image quality possible.

It is waterproofed and nitrogen-filled, so regular use in adverse conditions shouldn’t be an issue, and its compact nature makes it ideal for carrying in a kit bag. As stated earlier, it really makes a difference to have the neoprene case, providing an extra level of protection when travelling over rougher ground.

Our opinion

The Kowa TSN-501 is a really quite remarkable little piece of kit. For a reasonably priced, compact travel scope, it provides a clear, bright image, despite the small lens aperture. Although it struggles at long range and in conditions where a wide field of view is necessary, it represents an excellent choice for the travelling birder on a budget.

It’s easy to see why Kowa have built such a reputation among birders. Above all else, the little TSN-501 represents impressive value for the money spent. Plenty of much larger scopes for the same price or higher would struggle to offer the same image quality, and few compact scopes come anywhere close. It will never be a substitute for a good-quality, full-sized spotting scope with ED optics, but among non-ED optics, it stands head-and-shoulders above the crowd. If you are looking for something reasonably priced to put in hand luggage, transport in the glove compartment during a long trip or just to offer a bit more power than a pair of binoculars while remaining portable, there aren’t many better choices out there.


Kowa TSN-501 can be found here. Our full range of spotting and field scopes can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

 

Trail Camera Tips and Troubleshooting: Part 1

Trail cameras are a widely popular solution to monitoring elusive or nocturnal wildlife for both professionals and wildlife enthusiasts alike.

Modern trail cameras tend to be very reliable and are designed to be highly user-friendly. However, there are a few things we would suggest to ensure your camera performs to the best of its ability. These are the initial steps we advise to take if you are experiencing issues with your camera, and these can often resolve or at least identify the problem. For tips on how and where to set up your trail camera, check out part 2 of this series.

Batteries

Try a set of new batteries

Most minor troubles with trail cameras are due to the batteries not providing enough power. This can be down to the type of batteries being used or simply that they are getting low and need replacing. If you are experiencing black night-time images, short night-time videos, or no night-time captures are being taken at all then the first thing to check should be your batteries.

Battery meters on trail cameras are not always accurate, so we suggest checking your batteries with a tester/voltage meter prior to use if possible. This is particularly important for professional usage.

Choose Lithium batteries if at all possible 

We, and many trail camera manufacturers, highly recommend Lithium batteries as the best option for performance. The Energizer Ultimate Lithium are particularly well thought of, and as such are included in our Starter Bundles (see individual product pages).

Lithium batteries have a significantly longer lifespan than most other types e.g. alkaline and rechargeable NiMH, while also performing more reliably for a number of reasons that are explained below.

Trail cameras generally require 1.5 volts (V) from each AA battery to perform at their full potential. When the voltage begins to drop you may start experiencing issues such as those mentioned above. One of the main benefits of Lithium batteries is that they maintain their voltage until the end of their usable lifespan when it then rapidly drops off. In contrast, Alkaline batteries experience a pretty consistent voltage loss throughout their lifespan, meaning they can drop below 1.5V rather quickly after deployment.

Unfortunately, we do not recommend rechargeable AA batteries (NiMH). At only 1.2V, rechargeable batteries are unlikely to power the camera reliably or for long. If rechargeable batteries are still the preferred option, it is important that the batteries offer at least 2500mAh. Some camera models have been designed to work more effectively with rechargeable batteries, for example the Recon Force Elite HP4, however the performance is still unlikely to be comparable to use with Lithium batteries.

Be prepared for batteries to die more quickly in cold weather

During colder winter months, you should expect your batteries to discharge more rapidly and the battery life to therefore be reduced. At lower temperatures the chemical reactions accruing in the battery are slowed down, diminishing its power.

Alkaline batteries are particularly troublesome in this regard as they contain a water-based electrolyte, which means they seriously struggle as temperatures approach freezing. Again, Lithium batteries are the superior choice and can withstand significantly colder conditions while still performing fantastically, albeit slightly diminished in comparison to use in more mild conditions.

SD cards

SD (Secure Digital) cards are available in a wide variety of sizes and speeds. Generally speaking, we find a 32GB, class 10 SD card a very suitable choice, and this is what is included in our trail camera Starter Bundles. It is worth reading the manual of your chosen trail camera to check for any compatibility requirements or maximum size capacities.

Format your SD card 

Formatting your SD card is an important step when starting with a new camera, or if experiencing SD error alerts on your camera. It is important to be aware that formatting your card will erase all data, so any important videos or images should be transferred elsewhere beforehand.

There are two options for formatting your SD card: using a computer with an SD card reader or via the trail camera itself. When using a computer, simply look for the SD card in your file explorer/file finder, right-click and select ‘Format’. The majority of trail cameras also provide an in-built option to format your SD card via the settings menu. For the brands we offer, the menu options are likely to appear under the following titles (or similar):

Browning –  ‘Delete all’

Bushnell and Spypoint – ‘Format’

Check your SD card is not locked

A common error message seen with trail cameras is ‘missing SD card’. If an SD card is inserted in the camera but the error message is showing nonetheless, it is worth checking if the card is ‘locked’.

Modern SD cards include a small plastic lock switch (seen on the left side of the image) that allows the user to prevent any data being written or images deleted from the card. Simply slide the switch into the unlock position and check if the error message disappears when you re-insert the card.

Settings

Return the camera to the default settings 

When a trail camera is not behaving as it should or how the user would like, we would recommend resetting the camera to the original factory settings. This can be easily done through the menu on the trail camera and is likely to be named ‘default settings’, ‘default’, or similar.

For further advice on settings and placement of your camera, please see Part 2 of our Trail Camera Tips and Troubleshooting series.

Summary

We recommend taking the following steps prior to using your camera for the first time, or if you experience any unexpected problems:

  • Use a brand new set of Lithium batteries
  • Reformat your SD card (and check it is not locked!)
  • Reset your camera to its default settings

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the use of your trail camera, please feel free to get in touch with our Wildlife Equipment Specialist team via email at customer.services@nhbs.com.

 

Professional Ecologists: Get Ready for Spring Surveys

February marks the approach of the busy spring survey season and is the perfect time to take stock and make sure you have everything you need for your upcoming fieldwork.

To avoid disrupting any survey work later on in the year, we recommend that you take the time now to inspect all technical equipment for any faults. This will allow you to organise any necessary repairs in plenty of time.

We also suggest organising and ordering any equipment you may still require ahead of time, including accessories such as SD cards and batteries.

To help you get equipped for your surveys, we have compiled a helpful list of the key upcoming surveys that are due to begin in the next few months, together with any essential equipment that they require.

February
  • Badger bait surveying is best undertaken from late February to late April. Use a peanut and syrup mix with different colour badger bait marking pellets for each sett.
  • February is also a key time to survey bat hibernation roosts. We stock all of the main passive bat detectors currently on the market, as well as a comprehensive range of endoscopes.
March
  • Reptile felts or corrugated refugia for the survey of reptiles should be put out a few weeks before surveys start to allow them to ‘bed down’. Refugia inspections tend to begin in March or April depending on weather conditions.
  • Newt surveys start in mid-March and continue through to June. We offer newt bottle-traps as either whole or pre-cut bottles. Bamboo canes that are used to hold the bottle-traps in place are available to purchase separately.
Dormouse nest tube
April
The Song Meter 2 range of passive bat recorders from Wildlife Acoustics
May
June
A note on licensing

Please note that some of the species mentioned above are protected by law in the UK. Any survey work on protected species must be undertaken by a licenced ecologist. Different levels of licence are required for different survey and mitigation methods. For more information, please visit: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/wildlife-licences.

If you have any queries you can contact our customer services team on 01803 865913 or via email at customer.services@nhbs.com.

NHBS In the Field – Elekon Batlogger M2

The Elekon Batlogger M2 is a sophisticated bat detector, designed for use in active transect surveys and bat walks. The detector is ergonomically designed and compact in its build. Unlike the Batlogger M, the replaceable microphone is set back within the casing, reducing the chance of breakages if accidentally dropped.

It is an easy-to-use detector, able to record ultrasonic calls over a wide range of 10-192Hz, retaining details of the harmonic structure and amplitude of the original bat call.

This detector also includes features for real-time heterodyne monitoring scheduled recording and several preset recording modes for typical survey types, including ‘Explore’, ‘Transect’ and ‘Passive’. There is also an option to create your own presets, with all settings accessible directly on the Batlogger M2.

The recordings can be easily and quickly managed and analysed using the free BatExplorer Software for Windows. This software also includes computer-aided species identification.

How we tested

In August 2021, we tested the Batlogger M2 on Dartmoor in South Devon at dusk. We chose an area with both open moorland and woodland to monitor the dusk emergence of several bat species. Using the ‘Explore’ recording mode, the device was set to real-time heterodyne monitoring, with the trigger settings selected to 45Hz.

The recordings were stored on a 16GB MicroSD card, output via WAV and XML. The files can be easily transferred to your computer with the included cables (a USB-C to USB-C cable and a USB-C to USB-A adapter) however, we simply used an SD card reader to access and transfer our recordings.

Elekon’s ‘BatExplorer Lite’ software was used to visualise and analyse our recordings.

What we found

At only 222g, this device is lightweight, therefore it was not a hindrance when hiking to the site. It was easy to hold and operate in low light, which is important as it will often be used in conjunction with other equipment while undertaking surveys. However, the buttons do not light up or glow in the dark, therefore it is important to familiarise yourself with the setup beforehand.

Our survey used the ‘Explore’ recording mode however, we looked briefly at the other preset modes and felt they would be very useful if carrying out these types of surveys. In particular, the ‘Transect’ mode allows you to pre-program the detector with your own GPS survey route, which will then display directions to keep you on path.

Setting up our recording session was quick and easy. When triggered, the detector automatically recorded the calls in full-spectrum, therefore no further operation was required. Each recording logs the GPS location, temperature, humidity and brightness at the time of recording, so there is no need to bring separate equipment for these parameters. The device also has an integrated voice microphone to enable you to take time-stamped voice notes while surveying, which allows for more accurate note-taking than writing in the dark.

The screen display was bright and easy to view in the dark. The main screen shows the current recording time and frequency, as well as amplitude and harmonic structure of the previous bat call, the time since the last sequence and the species suggestion for that recording. The other recorded information can be accessed by pressing the left and right buttons to switch screen displays, allowing for an uncluttered screen and fewer distractions.

We tested the detector’s audio output with both earphones and through the built-in speakers (includes an adjustable volume). Both had clear audio with little background noise.

We recorded multiple calls including over 60 calls during one 30 minute survey. We were impressed with the quality of the recordings and the lack of ambient noise assisted in the identification of calls.  It is worth noting that the M2 uses a SiSonic microphone, whereas the older Batlogger M uses an FG Knowles microphone, so experienced Batlogger M users may notice a slight difference in their recordings.

Automatic species identification was not always to species level, with some recordings having no suggested species. Those that were suggested, however, appeared mostly accurate when we analysed the recordings via the BatExplorer software.

Our opinion

The Batlogger M2 by Elekon is a very easy-to-use and accessible detector. The preset recording modes are useful for almost all circumstances and allow quick survey set up without the need to trawl through complicated settings – particularly helpful for newer ecologists. The only limitation we found was the lack of visual aids for the buttons in the dark, however, this can be easily overcome by familiarisation and repeated use.

It is clear from the design of the M2 that Elekon has acted on feedback from the Batlogger M and have created an intuitive detector with a robust build, perfect for any survey needs.


The Elekon Batlogger M2 can be found here. Our full range of active bat detectors can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

 

NHBS Staff Picks 2021

Welcome to our annual round-up of the books and equipment we have enjoyed reading and using this year, all chosen by members of the NHBS team. Here are our staff picks for 2021!

Song Meter Micro

Released earlier this year, the Song Meter Micro produces high-quality soundscape recordings at a significantly lower price point than standard acoustic recorders. The Micro opens the door to keen naturalists, like myself, to begin exploring the world of bioacoustics. This spring, we recorded our local dawn chorus (highly recommended!) and found it incredibly easy to set up using the free app on our own smartphone. Of particular use was the preset recording schedules, one of which uses your location and time zone to target recording around sunset and sunrise. The ease of use and beautifully clear recordings make the Micro a clear choice for my 2021 staff pick.
Gemma – Senior Wildlife Equipment Specialist

 

Islands of Abandonment: Life in the Post-Human Landscape

Officially abandoned places are often still very much inhabited by people on the fringes of society, as well as being reclaimed by nature. Islands of Abandonment is a highly enjoyable read about places, people and nature; part travelogue, part anthropology and part natural history, it reminded me strongly of The World Without Us. Cal Flyn writes engagingly, intelligently, and with compassion. I enjoyed reading this in hardback when it was first published, and the paperback is due to be released soon.
Anneli – Head of Finance and Operations

 

Recon Force Elite HP4

Being able to record the presence and often secret behaviour of the more elusive wildlife on my local patch with a trail camera is thoroughly rewarding. At the start of the year, Browning launched their latest trail camera, the impressively well-designed Recon Force Elite HP4. After seeing the stunning quality of video it captures in 1920 x 1080 FHD, it has become one of my firm favourites and I am excited to get it out into a wider range of habitats. Just ten years ago, having a trail camera that could record in this quality and also offer so many practical features and settings would have been prohibitively expensive, so I feel the Recon Force really does offer excellent value.
Ian – Wildlife Equipment Specialist

 

Beasts Before Us: The Untold Story of Mammal Origins and Evolution

Beyond a few academic textbooks and technical monographs, the deep evolutionary history of mammals has remained largely hidden in the academic literature. Beasts Before Us unleashes their story most spectacularly and engagingly. This beautifully written debut marks Panciroli as a noteworthy new popular science author.
Leon – Catalogue Editor

 

Defender Metal Seed Feeder

I have a Defender Metal Seed Feeder in my garden and absolutely love it. The ports and perches are all made of metal meaning that the local squirrel isn’t able to chew and wreck the feeder! Everything is easy to disassemble and reassemble, making cleaning the entire feeder a breeze. Paying a little bit extra for a metal bird feeder was definitely well worth it for the quality and longevity.
Antonia – Wildlife Equipment Manager

 

A Trillion Trees: How We Can Reforest Our World

A Trillion Trees is my choice for this year’s staff picks as it’s an optimistic take on the future of the world’s forests, championing the role of trees in the fight against climate change and in people’s daily lives. This book celebrates trees, exploring their importance, the history of our relationship with forests and the future role they may have in an emerging community-centred approach to the land.
Hana – Ecology Content Writer/Editor

 

Kite Falco Binoculars

Kite Optics have a great reputation for their entry- and mid-level optics. I’ve had my 8×32 Falcos for a few months now, and I’m absolutely loving them. The ED glass provides a bright, crystal-clear image even in lower light, while the smaller size keeps them portable. In most lights very little chromatic aberration is visible. I’ve had great fun seeing some of the winter migrants that are currently in residence around the UK’s coasts. A great choice for any birder looking for quality optics at a good price.
Josh – Wildlife Equipment Specialist

 

NHBS Moth Trap Starter Kit

Handmade in our workshop here in Devon, the NHBS Moth trap is my 2021 staff pick. Constructed from lightweight plastic panels covered with white nylon and weighing in at 2kg, the trap is portable, easy to assemble, and convenient to store. The sturdy 4.5m mains power lead runs a single 20W Blacklight bulb and the white fabric sides help to reflect UV light ensuring good attraction rates. I’ve always been a fan of the standard skinner shape which allows you to easily lay egg boxes along the bottom, whilst the upper panels help to retain the catch. At an attractive price point, this trap is ideal for beginners or anyone looking for a convenient trap for their garden.
Johnny – Senior Wildlife Equipment Specialist

 

Advanced Bug Hunting Kit

Although it’s a product we’ve sold for a long time, my staff pick is the Advanced Bug Hunting Kit. This year I fell back in love with bug hunting in my local area. While not being able to travel far but having the freedom to explore my surrounding countryside, bug hunting helped transport me to a whole other world, the vast and fascinating world of insects! This kit has all you need to get you started. While being suitable for use with children for family fun, it also includes the Collins Complete Guide to British Insects and Super Fine Pointed Forceps to accommodate a more delicate, detailed look into what you have captured.
Beth – Wildlife Equipment Specialist

 

NHBS In the Field – The Wi-Fi Bullet Wildlife Camera

Similar in design and set up to our very popular Wi-Fi Nest Box Camera, the Wi-Fi Bullet Wildlife Camera (3rd Generation) is cased in a weatherproof housing, allowing it to be set up outside to watch all the wildlife in your garden.

It is set up via the free accompanying app Green Feathers. This camera is designed to live stream footage to your smartphone or tablet via Wi-Fi and can be watched on a web browser (Google Chrome or Microsoft Edge) once having been set up via your smartphone, or can be viewed and recorded on a computer via OBS Studio, or even live streamed to YouTube.

For a reliable connection, the camera is mains powered and extension cables are available to make installation more flexible if needed. The footage is recorded to a micro SD card up to the size of 128GB. You can add several cameras to the app if you want to watch different angles in your garden simultaneously.

It is worth noting that these cameras run on 2.4GHz Wi-Fi. This is not usually an issue as most Wi-Fi routers run both 5GHz and 2.4GHz, but if you do need help with this there is an online help guide available.

How we tested

To check out how the Wi-Fi Bullet Wildlife Camera performs in a real life setting it was set up in an urban garden. It was placed on the outside of a greenhouse, facing different angles. We set the camera up to record when motion was detected. This is called event recording on the app but continuous recording is also a possibility. We enabled local recording to allow the footage to be recorded to the micro SD card.

We set up a motion detection alarm to alert us when motion was detected on the camera so that the footage could be watched live if wanted. We had this scheduled for between the hours of 7am and 11:30pm so that we would not be disturbed by notifications in the night. This does not stop the recording from happening at that time, but simply stops the notifications. The alarm sensitivity was set to ‘high’.

We predominantly viewed and recorded the footage on a smartphone but also tested out using OBS Studio alongside VLC to view and record the footage on a laptop, as well as watching the live feed on Google Chrome.

What we found

Setting up the camera was very quick and easy. Once we had downloaded the app it was quite a simple process and the app guides you through the setup process. If you do run into difficulties, there are a number of help guides online which include video tutorials.

Initially, we were not sure whether having the sensitivity set to high would result in lots of recordings triggered by wind, as the weather during testing was windy and autumnal, with hail showers and leaves falling from surrounding trees. We were pleased to find this was not the case. The only ‘false’ recording we experienced were spiders walking over the lens of the camera, too close for the camera to focus on, and as we had the camera set up facing the house, we noticed that at night the camera triggered when lights were turned on and off in the house when curtains weren’t drawn.

We did find that the motion trigger was more reliable when at a closer level to the subject. For this reason we predominantly kept the camera at a low height rather than placing it higher up and pointing down. We would recommend playing around with the location of the camera before permanently fixing it to a location using the included screws and fixing brackets. While wood pigeons and magpies triggered recording at distances of several meters, and cats (and people) even further, to the maximum tested distance of approx. 5 meters, we did find that smaller birds such as sparrows only triggered the camera when within 1 meter of the camera. For this reason, if you are wanting to use this camera for watching feeding stations for small bird/small mammals, we would recommend mounting the camera close to the feeding station or going for the 1080p HD Wired Outdoor Bird Feeder Camera if you would like a constant video feed to a TV (please note the Outdoor Bird Feeder Camera does not record sound).

We were impressed with the sound quality of the recordings. Although we did not manage to record a good video of the sparrows and starlings singing in the trees (the backlighting and distance to the tree was too far for good footage), they can be heard in other recordings. The camera does make some noise itself while recording but this was not too loud or distracting. We were also impressed with how little the noise of the wind was picked up by the camera.

The camera has an impressive viewing area, much larger than we were anticipating, however this did result in a bit of a fish eye effect to the footage. This was only really seen to affect the subjects being filmed when they were very close to the camera (as seen in footage of the cats having a good investigation of the camera).

The infrared, low light footage did kick in quite early some evenings, although these were particularly gloomy evenings. The footage was still nice and clear in the dark, as it was during the day, and the motion detection did not seem to be affected by whether it was day or night.

Exporting the videos from the camera was a little bit of a drawn out process as the videos are accessed via the playback function in the app while connected to the camera. From here you can see the event recordings as grey lines on the timeline on the bottom of the video feed. This timeline can be expanded and contracted using a pinching motion in order to allow easier navigation. When viewing an event recording that you would like to export/share, you can record it to the app by pressing the record button, and pressing it again to stop the recording. If you would like your saved recording to have sound, ensure that you enable sound while watching the playback before pressing record. You do this by clicking the speaker icon on the video. Once these recordings are saved to the app they can be found in your Photo Album which can be accessed through the app without internet connection. From here you can share them. Although this is a slightly long process, it does mean you can access your footage to share from wherever you are (as long as you have Wi-Fi) without having to remove the micro SD card, which is contained within the camera under a screwed latch in order to ensure that the camera is waterproof.

Being able to access the camera from a computer is also very useful and enables you to record footage straight to your computer rather than just to the micro SD card and app.

View of the camera footage when using OBS Studio, with recording controls on the bottom of the screen

Viewing the camera from a web browser was also very easy to set up with the app by just scanning a QR code and confirming access via the app, to ensure it is a secure connection. You can also view multiple cameras in the web browser (single view and up to 9 cameras) so if you were to have multiple cameras, including a Wi-Fi Bullet Wildlife Camera and Wi-Fi Nest Box Camera, you can see them all simultaneously. This is a benefit over viewing in the app, as although you can add multiple cameras to the app, you cannot view them all at once.

View of the camera through the web browser, showing that you can view multiple cameras at once

Our opinion

This camera was easy to set up via the free app and provided hours of fun wildlife viewing. There are certain features that we think are worth bearing in mind when setting up the camera, such as positioning the camera close to where you hope to view smaller subjects, and we would also recommend that if you want to record specific behaviours or longer videos, to set the camera to continuous recording. This can be set up on a schedule so that the continuous recording only takes place in the timeframe you are interested in.

While the app was sometimes quite slow to connect to the camera, and the Wi-Fi connection to the camera was lost once (during 1 week of deployment), neither of these issues resulted in loss of video capture as the camera still records locally to the SD card regardless of whether there is internet connection. But the manufacturers are constantly working on improving the app, as it was only released earlier in 2021.

While the Wi-Fi Bullet Wildlife Camera has its limitations, we think that it is a great tool for watching your garden wildlife.


The Wi-Fi Bullet Wildlife Camera can be found here. Our full range of wildlife cameras can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

 

The Naturalist’s Microscope Guide Part 1: Stereo Microscopes

When thinking of the varied toolkit of the enterprising naturalist, a microscope is perhaps not the first thing that springs to mind. Nevertheless, for many entomologists, botanists and comparative zoologists, the ever-reliable 10× hand lens eventually proves insufficient. Indeed, many species of insect, lichen and fungi (among many others) are difficult to identify past genus or even subfamily without the use of more powerful optics. Animal scat, small mammal dentition and hair fibres can be likewise difficult to evaluate without suitable magnification. But researching the best optical equipment for your purpose can be a disheartening task, especially for naturalists who are likely to come across a wide range of resources for the engineer and medical professional, but sparse pickings tailored to their own specific needs.

For most naturalists, the 3D image and relatively low magnification of the stereo microscope (also called the low-powered dissection microscope) fits the bill nicely. However, with several big-name brands, a wide range of price points and numerous specifications available for uses across a plethora of fields, it’s useful to be armed with some background knowledge when choosing your own microscope.

Stereo Microscopes

Stereo microscopes are made up of several parts: most include a base with or without illumination, a pillar with an adjustable bracket for the head and a head comprising of two eyepieces and one or two objective lenses, depending on whether the microscope uses the Greenough or Common Mains Objective design (discussed below). Some also include a third eyepiece or ‘photo tube’.

ultraZOOM-3 Stereo Zoom Microscope

Specifics regarding the different parts of the microscope will be discussed later, but for now, it is important to understand how magnification is calculated. The optics of a stereo microscope consist of two eyepiece lenses and one or two objective lenses with which they are paired. Each provides its own zoom – typically 10× for a standard eyepiece and 2× or 4× for the objective (although many objectives provide a range of magnifications between 2× and 4×, see below). The overall magnification is calculated by multiplying the objective and eyepiece lenses together, for example a system with 10× eyepieces and a 2× objective will provide a zoom of 20×. Some objectives have a dynamic zoom lens, as we’ll discuss later.

Optical Systems: Greenough vs Common Mains Objective

Stereo microscopes are grouped by the optical system that they use – Greenough or Common Mains Objective (CMO). Both systems have distinct advantages and disadvantages, so knowing the difference is vital.

A staple since its original conception in the 1890s, the Greenough Optical System works by angling two objective lenses towards each other to create a 3D image. The objectives have wide apertures for good light-gathering potential, providing a crisp, clear image. It is also cheap to produce, meaning that most entry- to mid-level stereo microscopes utilise this design. However, as the lenses are slightly tilted, the focus is not constant across the image – the outer left and right portions of the view are always slightly over-focused while the centre is clear. This is known as the ‘keystone effect’, and while it is often unconsciously corrected for by the human eye, it does cause the viewer to experience eye fatigue more rapidly than the alternative.

Introduced in the middle of the 20th century, the Common Mains Objective (CMO) system uses one objective lens that is shared by both eye pieces, allowing for exceptional light-gathering potential, and eliminating the keystone effect. However, the single objective leads to a problem known as ‘perspective distortion’, in which the centre of the image appears to be elevated like a fish-eye lens. Models that correct this can cost thousands of pounds, so for many naturalists, a high-end Greenough system is likely to be a better investment than a low-end CMO microscope.

Magnification

Once you’ve decided which system you would like to go for, consider the magnification. Most microscopes under £1,000 fall into the 20-40/45× range. Occasionally 60× models are offered in this bracket, but it’s definitely worth testing these before purchase as the extra range can come at the cost of features such as lens quality. Remember too that as zoom increases, the aperture of the lens decreases, making the image worse. For most insects above 2mm, a 20×-40× microscope should do the job. Groups that rely on minuscule features or genitalia dissections may require higher magnifications, but this often requires a better-quality microscope that uses high-quality parts to maintain a clear, bright image.

20x and 40x magnification of a Green Dock Beetle – Gastrophysa viridula

The cheapest stereo microscopes use a ‘fixed’ zoom system, with a single pair of objective lenses that provide one magnification, normally 20×. The objective (and sometimes the eyepieces) can be removed and replaced manually with a higher magnification alternative.

Models above the £150 mark generally use a rotating ‘turret’ system shared with compound microscopes. Two pairs of objective lenses are included and can be rotated into place, generally 2× and 4× allowing for 20× and 40× magnification. For the serious amateur naturalist looking to invest in a ‘workhorse’ style system, this is often the design to choose, and many professional entomologists and botanists spend years learning with such an optic.

Finally, stereo microscopes above around £300 generally use a dynamic zoom system. This allows the magnification to be altered across a range (normally 20-40×). The default 10× eyepiece can be swapped for a greater magnification if desired. Many also include a ‘click stop’ system for easy reading of the magnification without having to look up. The flexibility of these microscopes makes them the most popular choice among many naturalists.

The Head: Binocular vs Trinocular

This is simple but important to consider. While the binocular head is generally considered to be the default for stereo microscopes, the trinocular variant is extremely popular among researchers and anyone who seeks to document their microscopy: the addition of the third eyepiece (phototube) allows for a camera to be attached and images or video to be captured while the user is viewing the image. Many microscope cameras are designed to be used specifically with a phototube and will not function when used with a binocular head. Some, like the Moticam X3, can be used with either.

The Stand: Base, Stage Plate and Illumination

When choosing an illumination system, it is important to consider what you’ll be using your microscope for. You’ll often see plain (no illumination), halogen, or LED bases offered, with the plain option being the cheapest and LED the most expensive. Most illuminated bases offer both transmitted and reflected illumination, referring to the way in which light reaches the eye. The reflected system utilizes a light that shines straight down on the subject, reflecting the light off of the subject and into the user’s eye. This is the most commonly used design among naturalists, as the examination of opaque objects such as insects, plant material and mammal hairs requires the user to observe the sample’s upper surface.

Transmitted illumination utilizes a bulb beneath the sample, projecting light directly to the user’s eye, similar to a compound microscope. This is used in the examination of translucent samples such as aquatic invertebrates and some macroalgae.

This is also where stage plates come in. Sitting below the subject as the ‘background’ of the image, most microscopes come with opaque black and white options for use with the reflected illumination setting and a frosted glass option that light will shine through for use with transmitted illumination.

Motic ST-30C-6LED Stereo Microscope

Don’t immediately discount a plain base. Many naturalists prefer not to use built-in illumination that sits directly above the subject, as specimens that require the examination of fine details on the sample’s surface, such as many beetle species, can be difficult to ID under such a light. The best solution is to purchase a dedicated microscope illumination unit, a handy tool that usually includes two swan neck LEDs that can illuminate the subject from whichever angle is most auspicious. These aren’t cheap, but the cost of one is often covered by the money saved in purchasing a base without a built-in light.

Finally, consider the difference between halogen and LED illumination. For many purposes, such as the examination of bones, animal hair or water samples, this is irrelevant and largely comes down to a matter of taste. However, some materials are prone to desiccation under the heat of a halogen lamp. Therefore, particularly for entomological work and work involving live samples, LED illumination is often preferred.

More Information

The array of options that go alongside buying your first microscope can be daunting, but with a little consideration, you should be well set to explore the wonderful world of the tiny. Keep in mind your budget, and the microscope’s intended function, and you won’t go wrong. The information in this blog should be a strong starting point, but if you should want any more advice, feel free to get in touch with our friendly team of Wildlife Equipment Specialists via customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913. Our full range of stereo microscopes can be found here.

NHBS In the Field – Browning Recon Force Elite HP4

Fast becoming one of our most popular trail cameras, the Recon Force Elite HP4 delivers outstanding quality video, super-fast responses and some great new features, all for excellent value.

The model joined the ever-growing suite of highly regarded trail cameras offered by Browning at the start of 2021. What sets the Recon Force HP4 apart is that, while introducing some useful new settings and providing generously rich image and video resolution, it doesn’t stretch the budget too much, the way some of the higher-end trail cameras currently do.

With the HP4, Browning has successfully found a way to keep the cost of a top specification camera reasonable without compromising on any of the quality they are renowned for. After some time experimenting with this camera, we feel sure that it is set to become one of our most desirable models, fulfilling every need you would have for a trail camera.

As is the case for most of the high-spec Browning trail cameras, the HP4 includes a front-facing colour screen, but at a bumper 5cm in size, this screen really is ideal for reviewing footage while in the field, particularly if you are capturing smaller wildlife. It also can’t be stressed enough just what a great aid this large screen is when setting the camera up, as it is so much easier to check that the camera’s positioning, angle and height are all set as desired before deployment.

Despite increasing the screen size, Browning has still managed to reduce the overall size of the camera itself, which is handy when it comes to transportation, discreetness and ease of attachment to trees. The back of the camera features a sturdy metal bracket for threading a strap or cable lock through, as well as the usual tripod screw on the underside, giving you plenty of options for mounting the camera.

Some of the more notable features of the HP4 include its smart IR video, which continues capturing video as long as an animal continues to be active in view of the camera, with recordings lasting up to a maximum of 2 minutes in daylight and 20 seconds at night. Its SD card management function is another useful addition, providing the option to overwrite older images on the card if the memory gets full.

Using its top-quality specifications, the Recon Force HP4 reliably and beautifully documents the wildlife you wouldn’t normally see and is both versatile and affordable enough that it should be suitable for most circumstances.

How we tested

For an insight into the camera’s performance and its suitability for different circumstances, we used the camera in a variety of habitats where the behaviour of different wildlife could test the camera’s range of functions. After setting the camera up with a full set of AA batteries and a 32GB SD, we first focused on smaller mammals by using the camera in a low canopy broadleaved woodland setting. We used a Python Mini Lock to secure the camera to a suitable tree and positioned the camera overlooking a small woodland clearing where a few peanuts were scattered. We left the camera out here for two days and nights under the following settings:

Mode: Trail Cam; Photo Quality: Ultra; Photo Delay: 1 Secs; Multi Shot Mode: Off; Image Data Strip: On; Motion Detection: Long Range; Trigger Speed: Fast; IR Flash Power: Long Range.

The camera was then moved to a more open garden setting, where we focused on video. We set the video length to 10 seconds, but also turned on the smart IR video function.

Motion tests were performed before leaving the camera running, which is a very convenient feature to ensure that the triggers are operating as expected before deployment. This simply works by checking that a red low glow is emitted when waving your hand in front of the camera.

We also tried out the programmable stop/start timer, which informs the camera to only trigger during specified timeframes. This is another very useful feature, especially if, for example, you are targeting only nocturnal or diurnal wildlife or baiting a site and wanting to avoid excess triggers from unintended species that may be attracted to a bait during the day/night.

What we found

Under these settings, the camera captured significant activity from brown rats at night and grey squirrels during the day. In terms of still images, which are captured at 22MP, we felt that the quality, colour contrast and detail recorded is fantastic and the black and white IR images were not too grainy.

It was interesting to see that with the 1-second photo delay, whole sequences of squirrels finding and then burying peanuts in front of the camera were nicely captured, just like a broken-down video, showing the camera wasn’t missing any action in front of it.

Even when a fast-moving squirrel was leaping in and out of frame, most of the images captured were sharp, showing the value of the impressive fastest trigger speed setting of 0.2 seconds (s). It is worth noting, however, that this fast trigger speed did result in many captures of animals just as they were entering the field of view, rather than more in the centre.

In response to this, we adjusted the trigger speed to the slower 0.7s to see how this affected the captures going forward. This resulted in some captures of rats further into the centre of the image. Also, when a slow-moving domestic cat approached the area, the first capture was made once the cat had made its way into a fairly central point of the frame, resulting in a more useful image. This demonstrates the value in having an adjustable trigger speed, which allows the user to customise the set-up to the particular circumstances or the habits of target wildlife.

The Recon Force HP4 boasts a great infrared sensor with a detection range of 34 meters and utilises new long-range LEDs, so it was very encouraging to see the camera triggering when a rat was passed by at approximately 5 meters away, outside the main detection zone and partially obscured by leaf litter. Although we have not yet had a chance to put the full detection distance to test, we already feel from these captures that the detection and trigger speeds can be relied upon.

It is worth noting though that for small mammals and birds, they can often be a challenge to identify unless they are triggered very close to the camera and within the core detection zone.

When testing in the garden setting, we hoped to capture foxes but instead recorded several domestic cats alongside garden birds. Here we decided to also test the smart IR video which worked well and resulted in 20-second night videos of cats sniffing around while they remained in view.

This setting proved particularly helpful when the camera was later returned to the woodland and was triggered by a passing badger. The recording did not end until the badger had fully left the frame. Using this function therefore greatly reduces the risk of interesting behaviour being missed just because a video has been timed out by default.

After reviewing the video footage, we were first struck by just how sharp and smooth the quality was at 1920 x 1080 taken at 60 frames per second, revealing plenty of detail both during the day and at night. The level of detail produces attractive footage that could perhaps help with the identification of individual animals.

It was also a pleasing result that we found no false triggers under both the long and normal detection range and the fast and normal trigger speeds, even under some windy conditions.

Our opinion

We would have no hesitations in recommending the Recon Force HP4 for both serious naturalists, researchers and even a first-time user looking to capture reliable and quality footage in their garden or local area.

Certainly, one of the most practical features is the large 5cm colour screen which really does make a difference to set up, alongside the no-nonsense menu navigation and instruction manual. Even those that are not so technically minded should have little problem using and enjoying this camera. Large front-facing screens are by no means unique to this model, but most others are usually significantly higher priced.

The super fast picture trigger and recovery speed of 0.01s and 0.6s respectively and video trigger and recovery speed of 0.38s and 0.7s, shouldn’t fail to capture anything, but the trigger speed is adjustable which is great for flexibility. Depending on the circumstances of your detection zone and what wildlife you are targeting, switching to the slower trigger speed could be more convenient, for instance for recording slow-moving large mammals, so this function covers you for all options.

One aspect to consider is that it lacks a hybrid mode that would enable both video and still images to be captured simultaneously, which can be useful in many circumstances. It is also worth being aware that the HP4 is a red ‘low glow’ camera, and the discreet red light emitted during night-time triggers did appear to draw occasional minor attention from some wildlife on occasions. But as is often reported, most wildlife is not spooked or adversely affected by this, so the most important reason to opt for a No Glow camera instead would be if using the camera in public areas.

The field of view is 40.2°, just slightly narrower than that of a similar model, the Browning Strike Force HD Pro X. Based on our findings however, it is hard to see that this minor difference will have any significant impact on your success rates.

We found that the images and videos captured during the depths of night were particularly impressive and significantly less grainy than many older models. The sharpness and colour contrast is very aesthetic and allows for details such as fur texture to be visible on even the smaller animals.

Other highlights we found included the relatively wide range on the adjustable trigger speed, and the smart IR video which made the most of the behaviour being captured.

To conclude the HP4 is an outstanding trail camera that builds on Browning’s long-standing reputation for durable, easy-to-use and high-performance trail cameras. Even if you are considering a more entry-level trail camera, after seeing the quality of videos this camera produces it would be hard to resist not treating yourself to this camera as an upgrade, given its price.


The Browning Recon Force HP4 can be found here. Our full range of trail cameras can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.