Trail Cameras: A Comparison

Trail cameras are an invaluable piece of equipment for those seeking to monitor wildlife as it is when there are no humans around. Unlike typical cameras, trail cameras are designed to be left in a particular location to capture photographs or video footage of passing animals. Thanks to infrared imaging technology, most modern trail cameras will also allow you to capture images of nocturnal animals under low light conditions.

The best trail cameras can endure a range of tough weather conditions and extreme temperatures due to weatherproof casing and a robust design. Their small size and camouflaged casing allow these cameras to blend into their surroundings and remain relatively inconspicuous. Most trail cameras can also be fitted with a python lock or security box to protect against damage or theft.

At NHBS, we sell a wide range of trail cameras and, like all products, there are advantages and disadvantages depending on the model and brand. To compare the trail cameras in our range we have prepared categories based on several of the key factors to consider when buying a trail camera. All recommendations found here are our opinions and views may differ on which cameras are best for each category.

Beginner Camera 

Browning Strike Force Pro X 1080

With a fast trigger speed, strong picture quality and robust design the Browning Strike Force Pro X 1080 performs well across all major categories. While not quite reaching to heights of some of our more advanced cameras in terms of picture quality, this economic camera is perfect for those looking for a starter camera or for high quality at an affordable price. 

Trail camera shown from the front with camouflaged pattern and camera lens and bulbs shown.

Picture Quality

When considering image quality, keep in mind that manufacturers sometimes inflate megapixel ratings through interpolation, a process by which pixels are digitally added to the image. While on paper photos have a higher megapixel count, the image quality is not improved. This is a marketing gimmick which eats up storage and generates longer recovery times.

While our top picks for picture quality both use interpolation, it is the quality of the photographs and footage produced by the camera which we base our opinion on.

Browning Recon Force Elite HP5

With crisp and clear daytime pictures and excellent night-time imagery, the Browning Recon Force Elite HP5 wins the top spot for picture quality. Video footage produced by this camera is of equally high quality as shown by recordings from our own team:

This camera is significantly cheaper than its close competitor, the Bushnell Core DS-4K. Another factor in this camera’s favour.  

Bushnell Core DS-4K 

A closer runner up, the Bushnell Core DS-4K likewise demonstrates superb picture quality. An advantage of this camera is the longer battery life when using the video capture setting, permitting longer deployment in the field, together with a world-beating 4K video resolution.  

Night Footage 

The nighttime capabilities of modern trail cameras are a key draw for many users. Using infrared technology, most trail cameras can capture photographs and videos of elusive nocturnal animals whose movements are normally challenging to monitor. 

Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 

While the Browning Recon Force Elite HP5 and the Bushnell Core DS-4K perform well at night, if you are looking for a trail camera specifically designed to excel in low light conditions, the Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 is a safe bet. This camera displays superb nighttime video and photographs with excellent clarity and contrast. A stealthy camera with top of the range trigger and recovery speeds, the Spec Ops Elite HP5 benefits from a no glow IR flash which allows it to remain inconspicuous in the presence of easily startled nocturnal animals.  

Browning Dark Ops Pro DCL 

Equipped with Radiant 6 Night Illumination Technology and a longer flash range than the Spec Ops Elite HP5, the Browning Dark Ops Pro DCL produces outstanding nighttime footage; the trade-off is a significantly reduced battery life and inferior daytime picture quality compared to the Spec Ops. 

Trigger Speed 

The trigger speed is the amount of time between the camera detecting movement and a photograph being taken. For those looking to monitor larger animals a quick trigger speed is of secondary importance; however, trigger speed is very important when monitoring small fast-moving animals where a small difference in trigger speed might mean the difference between capturing a picture of the animal or not. 

Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 

Here the Spec Ops Elite HP5 stands out from the crowd yet again. One of the top cameras in our range, its lightning-fast trigger speed of 0.1 seconds makes this camera a perfect choice for those monitoring even the quickest creatures. The Spec Ops Elite HP5 also boasts a swift recovery speed of 0.5 seconds, granting the ability to rapidly capture multiple pictures of an animal in the camera’s detection range.   

Battery Life 

Browning Patriot   

The Browning Patriot is not only one of our best all-rounders, performing well in all categories, but also the camera in our range with the longest battery life. Depending on the settings used (videos use up more battery power), this camera can last for over a year in the field without changing batteries.  

Browning Strike Force HD Pro X 

Another well-rounded camera, the Strike Force is also a strong performer when it comes to battery life. 

Durability 

Durability – Reconyx HyperFire 2 HF2X 

A strong favourite amongst researchers operating in extreme environments, the Reconyx HyperFire 2 HF2X offers unparalleled resilience and longevity. We tend to recommend this camera for use in tough conditions as it can operate in temperatures of -29° to +50°C and comes with an impressive 5-year warranty. The more expensive Reconyx UltraFire XR6 has the benefit of improved picture quality; however, this trail camera carries a shorter 2-year warranty and slower trigger speed.  

A Reconyx camera being used to monitor penguins at Brown Station, Antarctica.
Cellular and Solar Cameras 

Needing to go out to your trail camera when you want to change batteries, check photos or change settings can be time consuming, especially if your camera is in a remote location or if you have multiple cameras set up in different areas. Cellular and solar functionality save valuable time by reducing the frequency with which you need to physically interact with your trail camera. The trade-off is reduced image quality when compared to cameras without these features in a comparable price range. 

Cellular – Spypoint LINK-MICRO-LTE 

The Spypoint LINK-MICRO-LTE enables remote access to photos and settings by utilising cellular networks. It comes with a pre-activated SIM card, the free Spypoint app and a free monthly data plan allowing you to transfer up to 100 images per month. If you need to transfer more photos, choose from Spypoint’s affordable monthly payment plans. 

While excellent for those wishing to leave their trail cameras in remote locations, remember the cellular features of the camera require a network connection to function, so ensure that you place the camera in a location with signal. 

Please note, we cannot guarantee that cellular functions of the link series cameras will work outside of the UK 

Solar – Num’axes PIE1060 Solar Wi-Fi Trail Camera   

The Num’axes PIE1060 Solar Wi-Fi Trail Camera comes with a compact solar panel attached to the top of the unit which provides the camera’s lithium battery with an indefinite power supply when placed in sufficient sunlight. This negates the need to regularly replace the trail camera’s batteries, saving valuable time. The Num’axes camera likewise features WiFi technology, allowing photos to be remotely downloaded when inside the camera’s WiFi signal range.  

Cellular and Solar – Spypoint LINK-MICRO-S 

You can even combine features with the Spypoint LINK-MICRO-S. The built-in solar panel and cellular function allows you to leave the trail camera in the field for longer periods of time with minimal physical interaction.  

Please note, we cannot guarantee that cellular functions of the link series cameras will work outside of the UK. 

Recommendations and Accessories 

A few important tips and accessories can go a long way to getting the best experience out of using your trail camera. 

Use lithium batteries 

Many new users elect to use alkaline or standard rechargeable batteries in their trail cameras and find that their camera is not working as expected. Lithium batteries are capable of giving off a stronger surge of energy. Most trail cameras are therefore designed to be used with lithium batteries; accordingly, we offer a bundle when purchasing a trail camera which normally includes eight lithium batteries. Using the wrong type of batteries is among the most common reasons for why a trail camera is not functioning correctly. 

Rechargeable alternatives are available which perform well with trail cameras. 

Python Mini Cable Lock 

The versatile Python Lock with an 8mm diameter and length of 180cm is ideal for securing equipment and can be used with almost all our trail cameras.  

Security Boxes 

These tough and sturdy security boxes will help protect your trail camera from theft and damage. Double check that the security box you are purchasing is compatible with your trail camera model.  

Explore our complete range of trail cameras on our website or check out our Watching Wildlife Guide on how to choose the right trail camera for further information on trail camera features.   

In the Field – Kite APC Stabilised Binoculars

Kite Optics has always been a provider of high-quality optics, and we were thrilled to be given the opportunity to test a pair of stabilised binoculars from their range. The Kite APC Binoculars are purported to be ideal for watching birds and other wildlife. The big draw is the construction and ability to stabilise the image for more accurate observation.

Unpacking

Opening the box, you find a neck strap, carry case, instruction manual and the binoculars themselves. The first impression of the binoculars is that they look and feel ready for anything. The binoculars’ rubber casing provides an incredibly easy grip while giving you the feeling that they could withstand a little rugged handling.

To start with

Before using the binoculars for the first time you need to take the necessary first steps, as you would with any pair of binoculars. Adjust the dioptre ring to take care of any sight needs, alter the width of the eyepieces if needed (which was simple as they are linked together mechanically to create a single round image when looking through the eyepieces) and insert some batteries.

This is essential to get the full impact of what these binoculars have been designed to give you. It should be noted that the manufacturer clearly states that you should not use rechargeable batteries in this product. As with all electronics that may be put away for periods of time, you should also not leave the batteries in the binoculars while stored. Though you only need to use two batteries to run the stabilisation, there is a compartment for another two batteries, effectively giving you double the length of use while out in the field by swapping over tired batteries with the spares.

To access the battery compartments, you need to look at the front end of the binoculars. On either side of the lens, you will see recessed openings with plastic lids that have flip-out handles. It was a little fiddly at first to get hold of these, but once raised, opening the compartments was easy. When replacing the lids on the compartments you cannot over-tighten them. When screwing them shut, you will reach a positive stop.

How we tested them

Originally the plan was to take the binoculars out on a boat to view birds, seals and dolphins. However, in the timeframe, it wasn’t possible as the weather stopped the trips going out. An alternative was to take the binoculars up to a local reserve in Devon, Berry Head. An ideal location for watching the sea traffic, scanning the water for cetaceans and viewing the local guillemot colony that is nesting on the cliffs, along with other pelagic species.

The objective here was to see how well they handled the windy conditions and the distance to the subject both on the water, in the air and on the cliffs.

What we found.

With a relatively clear and bright day to start with and a medium wind, it was easy to break the test down into three areas based on subjects. Walking to the edge of the headland, I started scanning the sea. Plenty of gannets were around in a couple of sea locations and, while watching them, they started to dive. Initially, I left the stabilisation off just to get a good understanding of how they felt based on having to compensate for any shake with my hands. It quickly became clear that was quite tiring on the wrists and fingers while keeping the image as steady as possible. These binoculars can be quite heavy, though you should take into account that they contain stabilisation technology. Turning on the stabilisation, using the horizontal dial, and raising them to view, I was amazed at the change in the viewing experience. If you have ever used a more recent phone to shoot video, you will understand the concept of the gimbal mechanism that is deployed in the binoculars. The image became a lot smoother, even with irregular gusts of wind. Being able to track the birds not only in flight but as they dived made the experience much more informative. While watching the gannets, the extra magnification enabled me to view them angling their heads to the side to look down on the sea while searching for fish.

A fortunate moment occurred while the birds were diving. Something I had hoped to test on a boat occurred with the appearance of a cetacean. There are five different cetacean species off our coast in Brixham. The one that is most difficult to spot because of their surfacing behaviour is the harbour porpoise. Typically, you get a fleeting glance as they surface and then they are gone, reappearing after some minutes in a different location. Harbour porpoises are more solitary in their behaviour which can also add to the challenge. But with the sharpness, contrast and stability of the binoculars I could scan around the area the birds were feeding and note any surface disturbance, sometimes pre-empting the moment the porpoise surfaced. This coupled with the clarity of the optics gave me the chance to identify the species, recognising the small angular dorsal fin before it submerged again. It should be noted that there was a slight chromatic aberration around the edges of the image, but this was outweighed by the image quality where it counts.

The final test was to visit the opposite side of the reserve and use the vantage point across the cove from the nesting colony. This is some distance away on the cliffs, so again I decided to turn off the stabilisation and try to look at the guillemots before switching it on. To provide a comparison I shot a couple of videos through the eyepiece to show the stability of the binoculars before and after activating the stabilisation. It’s apparent that, if you were trying to assess colony size, you could quite easily carry out a census using these binoculars.

Opinion

These binoculars are built to withstand a good level of environmental bashing! With a waterproof construction (IPX7) and the rugged covering, I wasn’t afraid to use them out in the elements. The clarity of the view through the binoculars provided a level of confidence in judging the scene and the species within. Contrast and colour were well represented, which is incredibly important when bird watching as this will be the difference between identifying one species over another. The stabilisation was a real game changer, especially for identification purposes. I would feel good about using these on a boat to be able to survey cetaceans as when you halt the boat, the rocking on the sea would make this an ideal advantage for scanning the water. Good thought has been put into the design of the controls, with a large horizontal focusing wheel easily accessible and controlled using the tips of fingers. The stabilisation switch has been designed not to intrude on the use of the binoculars. Turning the stabilisation on lets you forget about the need to activate them. When you aren’t using the binoculars and they are in a vertical position, around your neck, for example, the stabilisation goes into sleep mode, improving the battery life. I would mention that they are quite heavy, without the stabilisation you could get fatigued trying to compensate to keep the image static, but with the stabilisation active, I know the stress on the hands would be less.


The Kite APC Binoculars can be found here. Our full range of Kite Optics binoculars can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

Equipment in Focus: Professional Hand Nets

Designed and manufactured by NHBS, the professional hand net is a
popular net choice for pond dipping and kick sampling. It is lightweight,
durable and practical, and used by universities and professional
institutions.

The professional hand net is available with a wide variety of mesh sizes and two net depths: standard and deep. The frame and net bags can be bought separately, allowing you to customise your hand net depending on your requirements. The standard outer frame width is 250mm and other 200mm and 300mm wide versions are available. The hand net can also be bought with two- or three-part collapsible frames to allow for ease of transport.

The sturdy metal frame is manufactured using marine-grade aluminium with an inner brass frame for net bag attachment, granting considerable resistance to wear and tear in the field.

Both aluminium and wooden handles are available, the benefits of the wooden handle being that it floats and is comfortable to use in colder conditions.

Net and mesh sizes

Mesh sizes range from 53µm up to 2mm. Net bags are also available in both standard (30cm) and deep (50cm) sizes.

For extra durability small mesh sizes are made from precision welded nylon material and the 1mm and 2mm mesh bags are made from woven polyester material.

The 1mm mesh is the most commonly used size for aquatic and kick sampling and the 2mm is more suited for amphibian surveys. Smaller precision meshes can be used for sampling smaller organisms such as plankton and chironomids.

Changing nets

Net bags can be attached and detached from the frame so that multiple nets can be used with a single frame. This can be handy for washing and replacing nets or when using different net meshes for sampling different organisms.

To demonstrate how to attach a net to the hand net frame, we have gone step by step through this process.

Steps

Begin by removing the inner brass frame from the outer aluminium frame by undoing the set screws from the outside of the frame using an allen key or use a spanner to loosen the nuts on the inside of the frame.

After removing the nuts, set screws and plastic clips, slide the net bag onto the now free inner brass frame using the slots in the orange section of the bag. Ensure the two upper slots are positioned just below the corners of the frame. It may be preferable to remove the plastic tube that connects the ends of the inner frame before feeding the frame into the net bag and reconnecting it.

The plastic clips can now be clipped onto the brass frame in the slots of the net bag. Ensure the flat side of the clip is facing the outside.

Place the clip flush against the hole in the outer metal frame and insert the set screw through the hole in the clip and the frame. The holes in the outer frame are off-centred, so ensure the holes are nearer to you when fixing the clips to allow the brass inner frame to sit flush with the edge of the outer frame.

The nut should then be loosely tightened onto the set screw using a spanner or by holding the nut in place and using an allen key on the set screw.

Loosely tighten the other three nuts and ensure the inner frame is positioned correctly before fully tightening. The clips holding the brass frame should now be firmly fixed against the outer frame.

With the net bag now securely attached to the metal frame, the professional hand net can now be used in the field.

Replacement and related equipment

Our nylon Professional Hand Net Cover will help to protect and improve the longevity of the net, and is ideal for safe storage and transportation.

Replacements are available for the hand net fixings and the inner frame.

Extension pieces are also available for use with both the two- and three-part collapsible frames to allow for net extension. Extra joining ferrules are available too.

NHBS supplies a variety of specimen pots for storage and viewing of collected samples.


The Professional Hand Net can be found here. Our full range of professional hand and kick nets can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

Equipment in Focus: Spring Frame Butterfly Net

The Spring Frame Butterfly Net is a compact net for anyone interested in studying butterflies or moths. Designed and built by NHBS in our Devon workshop, the net comprises of a short-handled frame, net and cover.

Bag, Net, Spring Frame and Instructions

Because of its lightweight metal frame, it can be folded down to fit into the supplied travel bag, neatly allowing it to be stowed away in a rucksack while out in the field. The main net is olive green and opens to a diameter of 30 cm. The short handle makes it easy to use at close quarters while trying to sample butterflies. 

When you receive your net, you will find it collapsed down inside its carry bag along with instructions for folding it back into the bag after use. To help you do this, I’ve gone through the process of collapsing the net in the steps below.

Steps to collapse your net

Start with a hand holding the open net with the bag draped below – held in the right hand.

Grip the top of the frame with your thumb ready to push from the underside of the frame.

Keep your right thumb over the screw that attached the frame to the handle.

Use your left hand to twist the frame into a figure eight. Your left thumb should help because it will be pushing from underneath the frame.

Twist almost completely with your left hand over the top of your right hand with your index finger ready to clasp the folded rim. The frame should naturally want to fold over itself.

With the frame folded, use your left hand to wrap the net around the folded frame to keep it from springing open. The net can now be safely stored in the bag provided.

Other equipment

It is also worth considering stocking up on a few supplies if this is the first butterfly net you have bought. 

A spare net: While the net is hardwearing, it is always worth considering keeping a spare net on hand. You can purchase additional nets on the NHBS website. 

 

 

A hand lens: Ideal for examining any butterflies that you have sampled. NHBS carries a selection of hand magnifiers that you can keep in your pocket. This particular lens is a 15 x magnification which is extremely good for viewing the beauty and detail of the butterfly.

Collecting pots: NHBS carries a selection of different types of pots that can be used for transferring a butterfly from the net to something you can view the butterfly with.

In the event that you wish to extend the handle, additional lengths and styles are available. For example, you can extend the handle to either 50 cm or 90 cm with the fixed length long handles such as the Professional Butterfly Net: Handle, or for a more flexible approach you can choose the Telescopic Handle that extends the range of the net between 82 cm and 125 cm reach.


The Spring Frame Butterfly Net can be found here. Our full range of butterfly nets can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

Phenology Series: Autumn

Autumn is a time of great change for the natural world. Hedgerows are bursting with nuts and berries, the landscape is shedding its green lushness in favour of reds and golds, and animals large and small are beginning their preparations for winter – whether that be by storing food, getting ready to hibernate, or migrating south where the weather is warmer and food more plentiful.

Although the days are shorter and the weather cooler (and almost certainly wetter!) autumn is a wonderful time for observing nature. As our focus shifts from the butterflies and flowers of summer to the fungi and garden bird feeder, this season also brings us some of nature’s most incredible spectacles.

This is the third in our seasonal phenology series where you can explore a carefully chosen collection of ID blogs, books, equipment and events, all designed to help you make the most of an autumn outside. Check out our spring and summer blogs and don’t forget to look out for our winter blog in December.


Identification guides:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


What you might see:

• During the autumn, most of our summer migrants will begin to head off for warmer climes. Swallows and House Martins will depart on their lengthy migration to Africa, where they will spend the winter before returning to us next spring. At the same time we see the arrival of other species such as Fieldfare, Redwing and several species of ducks and geese. Many will spend the winter in Britain whilst others will stop off briefly to feed on their way elsewhere. Some coastal species, such as Puffins and Gannets leave during the autumn to spend the winter at sea.

• Peaking in late November and early December, Starling murmurations are one of the most spectacular events in the wildlife watcher’s year. These magnificent clouds of birds, swirling and turning in perfect unison, can be made up of more than 100,000 individuals. The best time to see murmurations is in the early evening – this is when the birds take to the skies to find their night-time roosting spots.
•As days shorten and temperatures cool, the natural pigments in tree leaves change, and we are treated to a final burst of colour before the leaves fall and winter sets in. Parks and deciduous woodlands are the perfect place to witness this wonderful palette of red, gold and copper throughout the autumn.

• October is the ideal time to observe the deer rut. Our three largest species of deer (red, fallow and sika) all perform this spectacular behaviour which involves rival stags roaring and locking antlers in battle in order to gain access to females, who are only fertile for around one day each year. Exmoor, Dartmoor and the New Forest are particularly good locations for observing these iconic displays.
• With the cooler weather and increased rainfall, autumn is usually the best time of year for spotting fungi. Following a spell of rain, grassland and woodland can suddenly be carpeted with an array of fascinating species. Giant puffballs and the stunning fly agaric are two easily identifiable and impressive species to spot.

• During the autumn, salmon will migrate from the open ocean back to their home rivers in an effort to reach the higher reaches of clean water where they will breed. As they travel upstream they can jump up to three metres upon encountering waterfalls or other obstacles. Although risky for the fish, as jumping out of the water makes them vulnerable to predation, these spots provide an excellent chance for us to observe the salmon run in action.


Activities:

 


Upcoming events:

Great British Beach Clean – 16th to 25th September
National Hedgerow Week – October (dates TBC)
World Migratory Bird Day – 8th October
Seed Gathering Season – 22nd October to 22nd November
National Mammal Week – October (dates TBC)
National Tree Week – 26th November to 4th December


Essential books and equipment:

Collins Bird Guide: 3rd Edition

The third edition of the hugely successful Collins Bird Guide is a must for every birdwatcher. In addition to comprehensive descriptions, illustrations and distribution maps, each group of birds includes an introduction that covers the major problems involved in identifying or observing them.

 

Collins Complete Guide to British Mushrooms & Toadstools

A superb guide that allows anyone to identify mushrooms found in Britain and Ireland. The book is illustrated with beautiful photographs throughout, featuring the species you are most likely to see. Extensive details on size, shape and colour are given and over 1,500 photographs help you identify each species.

 

What to Look For in Autumn

In the UK, autumn is a season of change and preparation. The air temperature starts to drop, trees change colour and the days get shorter. This book takes a closer look at hedgerow picnics, unexpected houseguests and hibernating hedgehogs as the secrets of autumn begin to appear in the world around us.

 

Kite Falco Binoculars

High performance, lightweight and compact binoculars. They produce bright images, with all lens surfaces coated in Kite’s MHR coating; a multilayer coating that allows up to 90% light transmission.

 

Defender Metal Seed Feeder

The Defender Feeder’s metal construction is tough, long lasting and offers excellent protection from squirrel damage. The base and hanger cap are all constructed from corrosion resistant solid metal alloy. The feeding tube is made from UV-stabilised polycarbonate, which will not deteriorate when exposed to sunlight.

 

NHBS Wooden Bird Nest Box

Our own range of wooden bird nest boxes have been custom designed and manufactured from substantial 2cm thick FSC-certified wood. These simple, breathable wooden bird boxes have a sloping roof and four drainage holes and are ideal for providing crucial nesting spaces for the smaller garden birds.

 

Browse our full collection for more field guides and equipment highlights.

In The Field: Batbox Baton Bat Detector

The Batbox Baton is an economical and user-friendly bat detector ideal for newcomers to bat detecting and bat detecting enthusiasts alike. The Baton is perhaps one of the most simple and easy-to-use bat detectors on the market, so simple that it can be operated with a single button. With simplicity often comes sacrifice, but not in the case of the Baton. This device uses technology called frequency division which enables the user to monitor all ultrasonic frequencies between 20kHz and 120kHz at once by dividing the frequency by a factor of 10. If a bat calls at 50kHz, for example, a 5kHz form will be played through the speakers. This means no tuning is required and the user is not at risk of missing any bats by being tuned to the wrong frequency.

We took out a Batbox Baton to a rural lake in Hampshire at dusk on a dry August evening. The detector comes preloaded with a battery, and with a flick of the single On/Off button we were listening to bat calls in a matter of seconds. The detector is extremely lightweight, ergonomic and compact, making it easy to carry into the field. The calls of (what we believe were) Soprano Pipistrelles were divided down to an audible frequency and we could hear multiple individuals calling and hunting above us. It is worth noting that species identification can be more difficult without a frequency display screen, especially if the user has less experience in hearing calls in frequency division or if they are unable to compare with other bat calls. We found the Baton a very useful tool for listening to bats for pleasure and the lack of a screen or tuning dials means you can focus your eyes above and watch the bats as they fly and hunt. 

Should the user wish to get a bit more out of their bat detecting experience, however, the Baton does provide options. The Baton has a ‘Line Out’ socket, and when connected to a laptop with a soundcard via a stereo lead, and used in conjunction with the free BatScan analysis software compatible with Windows only, real-time sonograms can be viewed in the field allowing detailed analysis and species identification. 

The Baton’s Line Out socket can also be used with a digital audio recorder, such as a H1n Handy Recorder, and calls can be recorded for future analysis using the same BatScan software. It should be noted that if the user wishes to listen to calls through headphones, this cannot be done through the detector itself but only via the audio recorder. The use of a recorder and further analysis with BatScan software allows the user to gain a detailed understanding of call structure and species identification, and further their enjoyment of bat detecting. 

Whether you have been enjoying bat detecting for years, or you are just looking to start out, the Batbox Baton will have something for you. It is an economic and versatile option that we would not hesitate to recommend.


The Batbox Baton Bat Detector can be found here. Our full range of bat detectors can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

Equipment in Focus: NHBS Harp Trap

We are pleased to announce that we are now able to resume manufacturing the NHBS Harp Trap! We have had the time to be able to think about the design of the trap and tweak it to make it easier to use. At first glance, this compactly packed harp trap may look as though it would be tricky to set up, but rest assured that, with the use of two people, you’ll be able to easily assemble this trap, even in the dark. This blog provides a step-by-step guide to how to set up and disassemble the trap. If you are interested in finding out more general information about the NHBS Harp Trap, the only harp trap that is commercially produced in Europe, and its use, please check out the blog we wrote when we first launched the trap.

Please note that the NHBS Harp Trap is a made-to-order item so please contact us if you would like to purchase one and we will be happy to advise the current lead time. 

The NHBS Harp Trap: Instructions

Please follow these instructions for correct assembly and disassembly. We recommend that this is carried out by two people.

Assembly

1. Carefully remove the harp trap from its carry bag and sit it upright on the floor still wrapped up. Remove the legs and upright support poles from on top of the trap.

2. Insert the legs at either end of the frame (it is easiest to do this one end at a time). Hand tighten the top thumb screws (A). The lower thumb screws (b) are for extending the legs to make the trap higher or balanced if on uneven ground; the leg lengths can be adjusted as needed after the trap is assembled.

3. Undo the material ties at the bottom of the trap (C) to unroll the green catch bag flap so that it is laid out on the floor (D).

4. Fully open out the catch bag assembly arms to their full width (D).

5. Remove the upper carriage securing pin by loosening the upright support pole thumb screws (E). Where the upper carriage securing pins have been removed, insert upright support poles and allow them to rest on the ground. Ensure that the fixing points (thumb screws) on the upright support poles are facing each other.

6. Release the spring locking pins from both ends of the trap by pulling the leaver out and rotate it 90° to lock in open position (F).

7. Remove the thumb screw from the top of each upright support pole and slowly raise the top line carriage, keeping both ends level and watching closely to ensure that the lines do not become jammed. Once the carriage reaches the fixing point secure with upright support pole thumb screws.

8. Once you are confident that the top carriage is secure, slowly lift the upright support poles in unison again, and carefully watch the lines to ensure that none get caught. Keep raising until the lines become taut. Engage both spring locking pins in the bottom carrier (reverse of F), check the tension is even at both ends of the trap and when happy tighten the two thumb screws at the base of the upright support poles evenly at both ends to secure.

9. If required, peg out the guy ropes for extra stability.

Disassembly

1. If guy ropes have been used pull out the red pegs and store them carefully. Now wind up the guy ropes.

2. While holding on to the upright support poles (one person at each end), loosen the thumb screws at the base of the upright support poles, holding them in position and allow them to lower slightly. Disengage the spring locking pins on each end (as in F) and start to wind the lower line carrier. Keep lowering the upright support poles slowly and evenly while winding the line carrier until the upright support poles reach the floor.

Care must be taken to not allow the line to come free off the end of the line carrier as this may result in snagging of the lines and subsequent breakage – guiding the lines with your hand/arm while lowering is essential (H).

3. With the upright support poles resting on the ground, remove the top carriage securing thumb screws and allow the line carrier to lower, guiding the line with your hand/arm and winding as you go (H). Return the top line carrier thumb screws back to the storage points in the upright support poles.

4. Once the top carriage has been fully lowered, engage the spring locking pins, remove the upright support poles, and secure the top carriage back into storage position using the upper carriage securing pin and tighten the thumb screws to secure in place (reverse of E).

5. Fold the arms of the catch bag assembly inwards as far as they will go, wrap the bag around the trap and tie the bottom attached material straps to secure in place.

6. Undo the top thumb screws that are securing the legs and remove each leg. For safekeeping, ensure that the thumb screws are tightened once the legs have been removed.

7. Fully collapse each leg to its minimum length and tighten with thumb screws.

8. Place the upright support poles and legs back on top of the closed trap and secure them in place using the attached material ties at either end. Carefully place the trap and accessories bag back in the carry bag safely ready for next time.

Spares and accessories included:

4x Guy rope 5m
4x Red pegs
1x Roll of nylon string
1x Accessories bag


The NHBS Harp Trap is available on the NHBS website. The trap is available as a three-bank trap as standard, but please contact our Workshop Team to discuss your requirements if you would like a bespoke two or four-bank trap, or if you would like a trap that has the ability to be suspended from a support.

To view the full range of NHBS manufactured items, along with other ranges of survey equipment, visit www.nhbs.com. If you have any questions on the NHBS Harp Trap or would like some advice on the best survey equipment for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

 

Phenology Series: Summer

For those of us living where there are four distinct seasons, summer is the period of long, warmer days where the skies, fields, lakes and mountains are alive with the busy activities of plants and animals at the peak of their growing year. Most of the animals that have hatched or been born earlier this year will be beginning to fend for themselves, while many plant species will be coming to the end of their flowering period and preparing to produce seed in an effort to ensure their survival and proliferation.

The combination of warmer weather and longer daylight hours makes this the perfect time to get out and about and experience the beauty and complexity of the natural world.

This is the second in our seasonal phenology series where you can explore a carefully chosen collection of ID blogs, books, equipment and events, all designed to help you make the most of a summer outside. Check out our spring blog and don’t forget to look out for our autumn blog in September.


Identification guides:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


What you might see:

• Hedgerows and verges are still home to lots of flowering plants, although the frothy drifts of cow parsley are now coming to an end. Honeysuckle can be seen blooming from June, providing a night-time food source for moths such as the Elephant Hawkmoth (Deilephila elpenor).

• Bee orchids (Ophrys apifera) will flower briefly in June and July on dry, chalk and limestone grasslands, while sea cliffs will be adorned with the delicate blush of sea thrift (Armeria maritima) from April to October.
• Auks, such as Razorbills (Alca torda), Guillemot (Uria aalge), Puffins (Fratercula arctica) and Fulmar (Fulmarus glacialis), come to their cliff nests in spring to lay their eggs. They can still be seen (and heard!) throughout the summer as they make frequent trips out to sea to catch food for their young. Further inland, summer visitors such as Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus), Wood Warblers (Phylloscopus sibilatrix) and Pied Flycatchers (Ficedula hypoleuca) are wonderful to catch a glimpse of.

• June to August is an important time for ladybirds. During this period, mated females will lay their eggs which then hatch into larvae and form pupae through a series of four stages, or ‘instars’. Adult ladybirds emerge from the pupae in August.
• Wasps, bumblebees, honeybees and butterflies are all active in the summer and will feed as much as possible while the weather is fine. Small Tortoiseshell (Aglais urticae) and Red Admiral (Vanessa atalanta) butterflies can both be frequently seen around nettles where they like to lay their eggs.
• Frogs and toads spend their days keeping cool in damp and shady areas and are often found in overgrown areas of the garden during the summer. This year’s froglets and toadlets will remain in the water until late summer.

• The summer months are a great time to spot bats hunting for insects during the dusk and dawn hours. Female bats give birth to their young in June and within three weeks these juveniles will be learning to fly themselves. By August the youngsters will no longer need their mother’s milk and will be hunting for their own food.


Activities:


Upcoming events

Big Butterfly Count – 15th July to 7th August
British Dragonfly Week – 16th to 24th July
National Marine Week – 23rd July to 7th August
International Bat Night – 27th to 28th August


Essential equipment and books:

Field Guide to the Moths of Great Britain and Ireland

This beautifully illustrated and comprehensive field guide shows moths in their natural resting postures. It also includes paintings of different forms, underwings and other details to help with identification.

 

 

Britain’s Reptiles and Amphibians: A Guide to the Reptiles and Amphibians of Great Britain, Ireland and the Channel Islands

This detailed guide to the reptiles and amphibians of Britain, Ireland and the Channel Isles is designed to help anyone identify a lizard, snake, turtle, tortoise, terrapin, frog, toad or newt with confidence.

 

The Wild Flower Key: How to Identify Wild Flowers, Trees and Shrubs in Britain and Ireland

This essential wild flower guide is packed with identification tips and high-quality illustrations, as well as innovative features designed to assist beginners. The text aims to be as useful as possible for those working in conservation and includes a compilation of the latest research on ancient woodland indicator plants.

 

NHBS Moth Trap

A lightweight and highly portable trap, tested and approved by Butterfly Conservation. This mains-powered trap runs a single 20W blacklight bulb (included) and comes supplied with a 4.5m power lead with UK plug.

 

Kite Ursus Binoculars

These affordable binoculars have been designed for everyday use and have a robust housing, great field of view and produce a bright, colour-balanced image.

 

Magenta Bat 5 Bat Detector

A handheld super-heterodyne bat detector with an illuminated easy-to-read LCD frequency display. This fantastic entry-level detector converts ultrasonic bat calls into a sound that is audible to humans, allowing you to listen to and identify the bats flying around you.

 

 

Browse our full collection for more field guides and equipment highlights.

In The Field: Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 & Browning Recon Force Elite HP5

The Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 and Recon Force Elite HP5 are the 2022 additions to Browning’s highly regarded Spec Ops and Recon Force series, featuring Browning’s Radiant 5 illumination technology. We tested these cameras by setting them up in various habitats across Devon and Sweden over several days and nights in May.

Browning Recon Force Elite HP5

Both trail cameras take 24MP images and record in Full HD (1920 x 1080p), with an adjustable trigger speed of between 0.1 and 0.7 seconds, and a recovery time of 0.5 seconds between images. The footage is recorded in colour during the day, and in black and white during the night or in low-light conditions using the infrared LEDs. As with most high-spec Browning trail cameras, the 5cm colour screen helps when positioning the camera, as you can view the area that will be captured in images and videos, and watch footage from the SD card live in the field without the use of an additional device.

Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5

The display menu is simple to use and the settings are easy to navigate through, enabling you to alter the settings depending on the needs of different target species. The programmable stop/start timer allows you to designate a window of time when the camera will trigger and target the activity periods to match certain species. The adjustable infrared flash can be set to automatically adjust for perfect nighttime photos or be set to Fast Motion (for fast target species), Long Range (open areas or longer focal distance) or Economy (wooded areas or close-up footage) modes in order to provide the best results for the chosen habitat and target species. The smart IR video feature allows daytime footage to continue recording for as long as movement is detected (up to 5 minutes).

Both trail cameras have a camouflaged case to avoid detection in the field, but the no-glow feature of the Browning Spec Ops Elit HP5 offers further security and is less likely to be spotted in public spaces. 

Setting up

The camera is easy to set up with the provided strap but we would recommend securing it with a Python cable lock if you are using either camera in a public area. The cameras were set up in various locations across Devon (videos) and Sweden (images) to record wildlife in a variety of habitats, including an urban garden.

We also performed a capture distance test of 10m, 20m and 30m (please see our video below).

 

What we found

The cameras have very good sensors and performed well at a distance of 30m.  They are able to detect species of different sizes, from small wrens to larger sparrowhawks in flight. The cameras were triggered by moving leaves and branches, but were also able to pick up less noticeable movement such as rabbits in low light conditions (as seen in the videos). We did find that if you have the camera set up on a tree that has lower hanging branches in view, the branches can prevent the camera from triggering until the target is closer to the camera. We also found that placing the camera too low attracted the attention of nosy badgers, but by placing the camera slightly higher off the ground (around knee height is recommended), we managed to get wonderful images of a badger family (see images below).

The footage and images taken during the day and night were all crisp, and we found that the camera’s field of view is higher than some other trail camera models. This meant that even with the camera placed on the floor, there was no burnout due to the flash oversaturating images of the ground during night time captures.  

The trigger speeds for both cameras are very fast and are an improvement from the earlier Spec Ops and Recon Force models from Browning, ensuring that movement in front of the camera was not missed.

 

If you are looking for a good, top-end camera with excellent image quality, we would highly recommend either camera, choosing the no-glow Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 if extra security is needed when deploying the camera in areas accessible to the public.

If you would like help with tips and troubleshooting with trail cameras, please check out our other blogs here.


The Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 can be found here and the Recon Force Elite HP5 can be found here. Our full range of trail cameras can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

 

How to use a quadrat

Surveying plants within a quadrat (a)
What is a quadrat?

A quadrat is a square frame, usually constructed from wire or plastic-coated wire, although they can be made from any sturdy material. Most commonly they measure 50cm x 50cm (i.e. 0.25m2), and may have further internal divisions to create either 25 squares each measuring 10cm x 10cm or 100 squares measuring 5cm x 5cm. Some frames are also collapsible which allows you to connect several pieces together to create larger sample areas.

What are quadrats used for?

Quadrats are used to survey plants or slow-moving/sedentary animals. They can be used either on land or underwater to gain an estimate of:

  • total number of an individual (or several) species.
  • species richness/diversity – the number of different species present in an area.
  • plant frequency/frequency index – the uniformity of a plant’s distribution within a surveyed area (not a measure of abundance).
  • percentage cover –  useful in situations where it is difficult to identify and count individual plants, such as grasses or mosses.

By deploying several quadrats it is possible to compare any of these factors either spatially (for example in locations with different light or pH levels) or over time, such as at different points throughout the year.

Quadrats being used along an intertidal transect to study rocky shore ecology (b)
How to use a quadrat

Most surveys require that quadrats are placed randomly within the survey site. One way to ensure that placements are truly random is to divide your survey area into quadrat-sized spaces and then use a random number generator to choose x and y coordinates. The quadrat can then be placed in the appropriate position. The number of samples you require will depend largely on the size of your survey site and the amount of time/manpower you have available. A minimum of ten samples should ideally be used.

In some situations, more specific placement of the quadrats is required. For example, when studying the changes in species presence/abundance on a shoreline, you may wish to take samples at regular intervals along a transect up the beach.

Creating a species list

One of the simplest ways of using a quadrat is to create a species list. To do this, the quadrat is placed randomly several times within the target area and the plants present within them are recorded. This will not provide any information on abundance or distribution, but will be a useful guide as to the species that are present at the time of sampling.

Estimating the total number of a species

For plants or animals that are easy to count, it is possible to estimate their total numbers for your survey area. To do this, simply count the number present in a series of quadrat samples then divide the total by the number of samples to get an average count per quadrat. If you know the dimensions of your entire survey site you can then multiply this up to get an estimate of the total number of a species present.

Estimating plant frequency/frequency index

To calculate plant frequency or frequency index, you simply need to note down whether the target species is present or absent within each quadrat sampled. The number of quadrats in which the species was present should be divided by the total number of samples taken and then multiplied by 100 to get the frequency as a percentage. For example, in a survey where 10 samples were taken, dandelions were found in 6 of these. This would give a frequency index of (6/10) x 100 = 60%.

Estimating percentage cover

For species in which it is difficult to count individual plants (e.g. grasses and mosses) it is easier to estimate percentage cover. For this purpose a quadrat with internal divisions is recommended – one with 100 5cm x 5cm squares is particularly useful. Results from several quadrats can then be averaged and scaled up to get an estimate for the entire survey area.

Important things to remember
Quadrat with 25 10cm x 10cm divisions

• The number of samples you take (i.e. the number of times you deploy your quadrat during your survey) will affect the reliability of your results. Sample sizes which are too small are much more likely to be affected by anomalous counts (e.g. localised clusters of individual species). On the other hand, planning for too many samples can create an impractical workload.

• Bear in mind that there will always be observer bias. By their nature, flowering plants are easy to overestimate and low-growing species are more likely to be missed.

• Take care to make sure that your quadrats are randomly placed if your survey design requires this. It is easy to subconsciously place them where there are large numbers of flowers or easy to count species. Using a coordinate-based system will solve this problem.

Quadrats available from NHBS

At NHBS we sell a selection of high-quality quadrats, designed to be strong, long-lasting and durable.

Q1 Quadrat
Made from heavy gauge steel wire with zinc plating, the Q1 Quadrat measures 0.5m x 0.5m and has no divisions.

 

 

Q2 Quadrat
The Q2 Quadrat is made from heavy gauge steel wire with a plastic protective coating. The 0.5m x 0.5m frame is subdivided into 25 squares for sampling dense vegetation or species-poor habitats.

 

Q3 Quadrat
The Q3 Quadrat is made from heavy gauge steel wire with plastic coating. The 0.5m x 0.5m frame is subdivided into 100 squares for calculating percentage cover or making presence/absence recordings.

 

Q4 Quadrat
The Q4 Quadrat is a strong collapsible quadrat made from four pieces of heavy gauge steel wire with zinc plating. A single Q4 frame will make a 0.5m x 0.5m open frame without divisions, suitable for general vegetation surveys. Additional units can be used together to make a variety of quadrats, e.g.. 1m x 1m or 1m x 0.5m. Being collapsible means it is also ideal for travel.

Photo credits:
(a) U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Headquarters via Flickr (CC BY 2.0)
(b) USFWS Pacific Southwest Region via Flickr (CC BY 2.0)