Trail camera technology is rapidly advancing and quickly becoming more affordable, allowing anyone to view the wildlife visiting their gardens. During the first half of this year, we have had four new models released on our website boasting updated and improved specifications.
Browning and Bushnell are renowned trail camera brands used by researchers, conservationists and amateur naturalists around the world. Both brands offer high-quality, durable units at a range of price-points.
2021 has brought three new models of Browning camera, named the ‘Elites’. All three are continuations of previous series. The Recon Force and Spec Ops Elite HP4 are similar to the older ‘Edge’ models. The principal change is the addition of high power LEDs which have increased the night time range and image quality. The two cameras are essentially the same design, however the Spec Ops offers no-glow flash rather than the Recon Force’s low-glow.
The Command Ops Pro, Browning’s entry level camera, has been replaced by the Command Ops Elite. Despite coming in at a lower price point than other cameras in the range it boasts some fantastic features, including a faster trigger speed than its predecessor. If a colour viewing screen is not an essential feature for you, this camera will allow you to take images and videos at a significantly more affordable price.
• 18MP images, 1280 x 720 HD video (30 frames per second)
• 0.3s trigger speed
• Low-glow infrared flash
• Black and green text screen
Similarly, Bushnell released a new entry-level camera this year. The Prime offers a similar spec to the Command ops, but with significantly higher megapixel images. For more information on this camera and to see it in action, please read our ‘In the Field’ blog post.
• 24MP images, 1280 x 720 HD video
• 0.3s trigger speed
• Low-glow infrared flash
• Black and white text screen
This is part one of a two-part series that will look into different ways of filming wildlife in your back garden. In this part, we will take a look at trail cameras and what to look out for when buying one.
The variety of trail cameras on offer can be overwhelming, here are a few key things to look out for:
Type of LEDs
In order to capture videos or images in the dark, camera traps use infrared LEDs to illuminate the subject with little to no visible light used. There are two main types of LED flash systems that trail cameras use. These are No Glow and Low Glow. No Glow LEDs produce very little visible light and so are almost completely undetectable by the subject. Low Glow LEDs produce a faint red glow and so are not completely invisible, which can sometimes alert animals such as deer and foxes. However, they do have the benefit of being able to illuminate better over a longer distance.
Red Fox captured on Bushnell Trail Camera
Trigger Speed
Trigger speed is the time taken for the camera to take a photo once it has detected movement. If you are aiming to capture a fast-moving subject, then a quicker trigger speed (below 0.3 seconds) will enable you to achieve these photos before your subject has moved out of frame.
Recovery Time
Recovery time is the time taken for the camera to process an image and become ready to take a second photo. If you want to capture multiple images of a subject as it comes into view of your camera, then a shorter recovery time will allow for this.
Hybrid mode allows the camera to take videos and photos simultaneously. A camera with this capability may be useful if you want to get as much footage as possible of anything that falls into frame of the camera. If you are more interested in capturing only photographs or only videos, this mode may not be an important feature.
Resolution and Interpolation
The quality of the images and videos that your trail camera can take will depend on its resolution. Most cameras have settings that can alter the resolution either, decreasing it through compression, or increasing it through interpolation. Compression is useful if you want to deploy your camera for a long time and memory card capacity may become an issue, whereas interpolation can produce a larger image by adding pixels. The best way to compare the quality of images between cameras is to look at sample photos and videos. The displayed megapixel value is often resolution as a result of interpolation. The true resolution of the image sensor can usually be found in the specifications as the true sensor resolution.
Screen
Many trail cameras come with built-in viewing screens allowing you to view your photos and videos in the field. This is particularly useful if you want to take a few test shots to check the positioning of the camera.
Our Suggestions
Browning Strike Force Full HD
If you’re looking for a good entry-level camera, then take a look at the Browning Strike Force Full HD. It takes high quality images and videos for a very affordable price. LED type: Low Glow Trigger speed: 0.135-0.7s Recovery time: 0.5s Hybrid: No Resolution: 22MP Viewing Screen: Small screen showing text only
Browning Dark Ops HD Pro X
For the next step up, the mid-range Browning Dark Ops HD Pro X is one of our most popular trail cameras. With No Glow LEDs and a impressively quick trigger speed, this is a great all-round option. LED type: No Glow Trigger speed: 0.22s Recovery time: 0.6s Hybrid: No Resolution: 20MP Viewing Screen: 3.8cm colour screen
Bushnell Core DS No Glow
If the hybrid mode is an important feature for your work, a Bushnell Core DS No Glow may be the one for you. Dual sensors target day and night in order to provide the best quality images, no matter the light conditions. LED type: No Glow Trigger speed: 0.2s Recovery time: 0.7s Hybrid: Yes Resolution: 30MP Viewing Screen: 5.08cm colour screen
Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5
If the subject of your trail camera photos or videos is particularly fast, it may be worth taking a look at the Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 whose adjustable trigger speed starts from 0.1 seconds is one of the fastest on the market. LED type: No Glow Trigger speed: 0.1-0.7s Recovery time: 0.5s Hybrid: No Resolution: 24MP Viewing Screen: 5cm colour screen
Accessories
There are a selection of accessories that you may want pair with your camera to get the best out of your camera-trapping experience. If you are worried about leaving an expensive piece of kit outside and unattended, then you may want to invest in a Python Lock. This cable lock will fit most trail cameras and and will give you piece of mind that your camera is secured in place. Here you can watch how to set up this lock with your own trail camera. You also may be interested in a security case that is compatible with your trail camera. These cases house your camera and secure with a padlock, which helps prevent vandalism and theft.
SD Cards
All cameras need a memory card to store your photos and videos on. Make sure to check what SD card capacity your camera needs, this is usually found in the specifications section. Browse our selection of SD cards to order alongside your camera so that you can get snapping as soon as possible.
Power Options
Most cameras are powered by batteries. We recommend you use Lithium Ion batteries with your trail camera to ensure maximum trigger speeds and longer battery life.Make sure to check how many batteries your camera needs. Some trail cameras are also compatible with solar panels which will allow you to extend the battery life of your camera. This is especially useful if you want to leave your camera outside for extended periods of time.
Starter Bundles
Browning Strike Force Starter Bundle
If you are looking to buy a trail camera and want to make sure you will be able to get out and start capturing as soon as it arrives, then you may want to take a look at our starter bundle options. These bundles come with a memory card and batteries that are right for your camera to ensure you have everything you need to get started.
To see more trail cameras available, take a look at our range here.
Would you like some more advice on which trail camera or nest box camera is most suitable for you? Contact us on +44 (0)1803 865913 or email customer.services@nhbs.com .
The season is finally upon us when sun-loving dragonflies are emerging from their aquatic homes. The cold beginning to the year has certainly delayed their appearance, but flashes of blue and green are now being seen above our local ponds and streams.
The name dragonfly is often used to refer to insects of the order Odonata, that includes both the actual dragonflies and their close relatives, the damselflies. In this blog we will use the word dragonfly to describe only the genuine dragonflies from the sub-group Anisoptera.
Although initially very similar in appearance, dragonflies and damselflies can be easily told apart by a few identifying features. Dragonflies tend to be larger and bulkier insects overall with significantly larger eyes when compared to the slim built and rather delicate damsels. When at rest dragonflies hold their wings open whereas damsels remain closed.
Emperor Dragonfly by Ferran Pestaña via Flickr (L) and Common Blue Damselfly by Charlie Jackson via Flickr (R)
These insects are not only beautiful but are also very important members of freshwater ecosystems. They manage populations of smaller prey species such as mosquitos and provide a source of food for many birds including wagtails, kingfishers and hobbies. They are a reliable indicator of good quality freshwater.
There are just under 30 species of dragonfly living in the UK. Identification of these is primarily performed using the patterns and colouration of the thorax and abdomen, although some particularly similar species need the finer details, such as leg colour, to be examined.
Below are ten of the most common and widespread species you are likely to spot, split by taxonomic family.
Hawkers (Aeshnidae)
Hawkers (also known as Darners) are a family of large rather ‘traditional- looking’ dragonflies. They are very strong fliers, often seen flying forwards and backwards and hovering in mid-air. The name hawker, meaning to hunt on the wing, references their ability to catch prey in flight using their feet or mouthparts. Hawkers rarely come to rest, making identification more challenging than other groups.
Common Hawker – Aeshna juncea
Appearance: A large black or brown dragonfly with blue spots along the body. Look out for: Two extended yellow lines on the thorax (highlighted in the image) make it possible to separate the male of this species from its counterpart, the migrant hawker. The patterns on the abdomen that are also highlighted below also differ and will be explained further below. Months active: June – October Size: 7.4cm
Common Hawker by Jorg Hempel (L) via Flickr and Oddwellies (R) via Flickr. The red boxes highlight two important markings for separating this species from the migrant hawker below.
Migrant Hawker – Aeshna mixta
Appearance: Overall, very similar in appearance to the common hawker although very slightly smaller. Identification: This species has truncated, or non-existent stripes on the thorax, separating it from the common hawker. However the most important feature, present in both males and females, is the noticeable widening of the abdominal line at the top, forming a T shape that is not present on the common hawker. Months active: July – November Size: 6.3cm
Migrant Hawker by Tony Hisgett (L) via Flickr and Charlie Jackson (R) via Flickr. Note the short stripes and ‘t-shaped’ mark on upper abdomen
Southern Hawker – Aeshna cyanea
Identification: A bright and colourful dragonfly with alternating lime green and blue markings.The females of this species lack the blue and so appear more modestly coloured. Months active: June – October Size: 7cm
Southern Hawker by Airwolfhound (L) via Flickr and Ian Preston (R) via Flickr
Brown Hawker – Aeshna grandis
Appearance: Brown-bodied dragonfly with uniform small blue markings along the side of the abdomen. Identification: The brown, slightly translucent wings on this species are unique in UK dragonflies, making it easy to identify. Months active: June – September Size: 7.3cm
Brown Hawker by It’s No Game (L) via Flickr and Pavel Kirillov (R) via Flickr
Emperor Dragonfly – Anax imperator
Despite the lack of ‘hawker’ in this dragonfly’s name, it is still found in the same family as the previous species and so is regarded as a hawker-type.
Appearance: An eye-catching brightly coloured species. The UK’s overall bulkiest, largest dragonfly (although not technically the longest – see the golden-ringed). Identification: Bright green thorax, with blue ‘tail’ Months active: June to August Size: 7.8cm
Emperor Dragonfly by Tristram Brelstaff (L) via Flickr and Charlie Jackson (R) via Flickr
Goldenrings (Cordulegastridae)
Another family of large dragonflies, the Goldenrings are also known as ‘Spiketails’ due to the females prominent, long ovipositors at the end of their bodies. Only one member of this family is currently found in the UK, making identification simple.
Golden-ringed Dragonfly – Cordulegaster boltonii
Identification: An appropriately named dragonfly with prominent colouration – bright yellow and black stripes down the body are found on both the males and females of the species. Months active: May- September Size: 7.4cm, although females can be up to 8.4cm when including their long ovipositor, making them technically the longest species found in the UK.
Golden-ringed Dragonfly images by Gail Hampshire via Flickr – Left image and right image
Chasers and Darters (Libellulidae)
Chasers and darters are significantly smaller dragonflies than the hawkers and goldenrings, including our smallest species. Appropriately named, these dragonflies tend to perch and then suddenly chase/dart after their prey. Their movement can appear less smooth and instead more erratic than the larger hawkers.
Chasers have rather wide/broad and flattened bodies when compared to the familiar image of a slender bodied dragonfly.
Four-spotted Chaser – Libellula quadrimaculata
Appearance: A ‘stout’ brown dragonfly with a darker tip to the base of the abdomen. Identification: As the name suggests, four characteristic spots are present on the midpoints of the wings. Months active: May – September Size: 3.9- 4.8 cm
Four-spotted Chaser by gailhampshire (L) via Flickr and ianpreston (R) via Flickr
Broad-bodied chaser – Libellula depressa
Appearance: Wide-bodied with a striking and beautiful ‘icy’ blue body on male. Females look similar but with a yellowy-golden body. Identification: A number of other chaser species share the blue colouration, but the broad-bodied is easily the most commonly seen. The dark bases to all four wings is an additional identifying feature. Months active: May – August Size: 3.9 – 4.8 cm
Broad-bodied Chaser male (L) by Ian Preston via Flickr and female (R) by Jans Canon via Flickr
Darters are also shorter than the hawker dragonflies but have more slender bodies than the chasers with a ‘cigar-like’ shape.
Common darter – Sympetrum striolatum
Appearance: A brightly coloured, red dragonfly with yellow side stripes on the thorax. Females of the species are instead rather uniformly yellow. Identification: Despite the coloration, this dragonfly looks very similar to many other darter species, in particular the rarer Ruddy darter. These two can be distinguished by the presence of yellow leg stripes, whereas the Ruddy’s legs are purely black. Months active: July – October Size: 3.8 – 4.3cm
Common Darter female (L) by Nikk via Flickr and male (R) by Gail Hampshire via Flickr
Black Darter – Sympetrum danae
Appearance: Smallest resident dragonfly. The males are entirely black whereas females are a bright yellow, appearing similar to the females of the common darter. Identification: The mature male of this species is the only black dragonfly in the UK. Months active: June – October Size: 2.9 – 3.4 cm
Black Darter male (L) by Alastair Rae via Flickr and female (R) by Gail Hampshire via Flickr
Recommended reading:
Field Guide to the Dragonflies of Britain and Europe By: Klaas-Douwe B Dijkstra, Asmus Schröter and Richard Lewington Paperback | Oct 2020 Hardback | Oct 2020 Fully revised, the second edition of this guide features updated taxonomic and distribution information, as well as five new species discovered since the first edition in 2006.
Britain’s Dragonflies By: Dave Smallshire, Andy Swash Flexibound | Aug 2018 This updated fourth edition features hundreds of stunning images and identification charts covering all 57 resident, migrant and former breeding species, and six potential vagrants.
All prices correct at the time of this article’s publication.
Moths are a fascinating and beautiful part of the natural landscape in the UK. However due in part to their elusive nature, often plain colouration and the unfavourable habits of a few cloth eating species, they very rarely receive the same recognition as their more illustrious butterfly cousins.
However, understanding and protecting our moths is more important now than ever. Recent studies in the UK have highlighted that many common and specialist moth species are continuing along a worrying trend of decline as they are subject to increasing pressures from urbanisation, pollution, agricultural intensification and climate change. The latest State of Moths Report estimated declines in moth abundance of around 33% between 1968 and 2021, while the latest State of Nature report estimates declines for many common moths of around 25% between 1978 and 2018. While the estimated rate of decline does vary between studies, being influenced by the timescale over which data was collected and the geographic location data was collected from (northern counties appear to undergo slower declines in moth abundance than southern counties), they come to the same conclusion that many of the UK’s moths are declining at significant rates.
These reports would not be possible without the extensive records provided by professional entomologists and amateur moth enthusiasts around the country. You can help conserve this key group by submitting your own records to either a local record centre or to a national recording scheme, such as the National Moth Recording Scheme (NMRS).
Identifying Moths
Getting started with identifying moths can appear a rather daunting task. This concern is understandable as a quick skim through any field guide will quickly show the near identical appearances of some species and the extreme variation present in others. However there are a number of moth species that are quite distinct and offer an excellent introduction to the world of moths.
In this article we have compiled a list of those species which can be encountered throughout most of the UK. Some species are more restricted than others and some are only typically encountered when using a light trap, however they are all fantastic species to become familiar with.
Silver-Y
Latin name:Autographa gamma Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium Look out for: Unbroken silver “y” on the upper forewing. Did you know?: The Silver-Y undertake intergenerational migrations. Immigrant moths in spring will breed and over successive generations swell their population size by around four times, until the Autumn when they emigrate back across the channel and south through Europe.
Silver-Y Moth (Autographa gamma) by xulescu_g via Flickr
Large Yellow Underwing
Latin name:Noctua pronuba Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium/Large Identification: Yellow hindwings with black borders are the best indicator, however it often rests with wings closed and has a highly variable appearance. Did you know?: Considered by some to be one of our most common medium-large moths, especially when populations are bolstered by occasional large immigrations in the south of the UK.
Large Yellow Underwing Moth (Noctua pronuba) by Martin Cooper via Flickr
Red Underwing
Latin name:Catocala nupta Distribution: Throughout UK, most common in south-central England Size: Large Identification: Red hindwing is very distinctive. Similar looking species have a darker crimson red and are much scarcer. Did you know?: The Red Underwing is gradually increasing its range northwards and becoming more common in previously low-density colder regions.
Red Underwing Moth (Catocala nupta) by Alastair Rae via Flickr
Angle Shades
Latin name:Phlogophora meticulosa Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium Identification: Unique folded wings give the impression of a fallen autumn leaf Did you know?: Adult moths are often encountered in the day resting in the open.
Angle Shades Moth (Phlogophora meticulosa) by Donald Hobern via Flickr
Peppered Moth
Latin name:Biston betularia Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Large Identification: Rests with wings spread open. White form is peppered with black spots. Black form has mostly uniform colour and is generally only found in urban areas. Did you know?: The abundance of white and black variants of the Peppered Moth has been extensively studied and is often used as an example of evolution by natural selection.
Peppered Moth (Biston betularia) by gailhampshire via Flickr
White Ermine
Latin name:Spilosoma lubricipeda Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium Identification: Strong white coloured forewings, peppered with black spots, and a yellow-coloured upper abdomen. Wing colour and spotting is variable within and between populations. Did you know?: Its common name is derived from its resemblance to an Ermine coat.
White Ermine Moth (Spilosoma lubricipeda) by Patrick Clement via Flickr
Muslin Moth
Latin name:Diaphora mendica Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium Identification: They have large stocky wings. Males typically have grey-brown coloured wings, whereas Females have a similar colouration to White Ermine moths, though their wings are opaque Did you know?: Male Muslin Moths in Ireland have a creamy white colouration to their wings. Similarly coloured males can also be found in some locations on the Cornish/Devon border.
Muslin Moth (Diaphora mendica) by Patrick Clement via Flickr
Swallow-tailed Moth
Latin name:Ourapteryx sambucaria Distribution: Throughout UK, though scarcer in Northern Scotland Size: Large Identification: Broad wings with a pale uniform yellow colour, intersected by diagonal dark lines. Hindwings have short tails. Did you know?: The species is hard to encounter without a light trap. The adults have a short flight period and are strictly nocturnal, while the caterpillars have a cryptic colouration which gives them the appearance of a twig.
Swallow-tailed Moth (Ourapteryx sambucaria) by Ben Sale via Flickr
Feathered Thorn
Latin name:Colotois pennaria Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium Identification: Rests with wings flat apart. Wings are a reddish brown with a pink hue and have a slightly hooked tip on the forewing. They fly very late in the year which can help with distinguishing from similar species. Did you know?: Their common name is derived from the large feathered antenna present on males of the species.
Feathered Thorn Moth (Colotois pennaria) by Ben Sale via Flickr
Hebrew Character
Latin name:Orthosia gothica Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium Identification: Have distinctive and unique black markings on the forewing. Did you know?: Their common name is derived from the markings on the forewing which resemble the Hebrew letter Nun.
Hebrew Character Moth (Orthosia gothica) by Ben Sale via Flickr
Common Quaker
Latin name:Orthosia cerasi Distribution: Throughout UK, though scarcer in Northern Scotland Size: Medium Identification: Has a highly variable markings and colouration, however the strong outline of the “oval” and “kidney” markings on the forewings is a helpful identifier. Did you know?: The four quaker species in the UK are believed to have received their common name back in the 1700s. Lepidopterists took inspiration from the Quakers at the time, who apparently wore clothing of similar hues.
Common Quaker Moth (Orthosia cerasi) by Ben Sale via Flickr
Elephant Hawk-Moth
Latin name:Deilephila elpenor Distribution: Throughout UK, though scarce in Scotland Size: Large Identification: Has striking and well defined pink colouration across the whole body. Did you know?: The name of the Elephant Hawk Moth is derived from its resemblance to an Elephant’s trunk when in its larval form.
Elephant Hawk-Moth (Deilephila elpenor) by Alastair Rae via Flickr
Poplar Hawk-moth
Latin name:Laothoe populi Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Large Identification: Unique wing shape where hindwings extend beyond forewings and gives it a resemblance to a dead leaf. Its abdomen is curved upwards at the tip. Did you know?: This is believed to be our most common Hawk-Moth species and it can be found by light trapping in summer throughout the UK.
Poplar Hawk-moth (Laothoe populi) by Ben Grantham via Flickr
Jersey Tiger Moth
Latin name:Euplagia quadripunctaria Distribution: Mostly found it the South-west of the UK, though it is spreading North Size: Medium-Large Identification: Wings bear a unique diagonal zebra stripe pattern which can be used to tell it apart from other Tiger Moth species. Did you know?: Until recently this moth was considered scarce in the UK and could only be commonly encountered on Jersey and some parts of the South Devon coastline.
Jersey Tiger Moth (Euplagia quadripunctaria) by Paul via Flickr
Garden Tiger Moth
Latin name:Arctia caja Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium-Large Identification: Bright orange hindwings have bold blue-black spots which can help tell this species apart from other Tiger Moths Did you know?: The Garden Tiger has defensive glands behind its head which it uses to secrete a toxic fluid when attacked.
Garden Tiger Moth (Arctia caja) by Alastair Rae via Flickr
Scarlet Tiger Moth
Latin name:Callimorpha dominula Distribution: Mostly found it the South-West of the UK and Wales Size: Medium Identification: The forewings have a distinct metallic green-black colour patterned with white/cream coloured spots. Hindwings are a striking red colour in most individuals. Did you know?: Rarely aberrant forms of Scarlet Tiger Moth occur with yellow underwings.
Scarlet Tiger Moth (Callimorpha dominula) by Patrick Clement via Flickr
Six-spot Burnet
Latin name:Zygaena filipendulae Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium Identification: Has metallic coloured forewings patterned with three pairs of vibrant red spots Did you know?: The six-spot Burnet is the commonest burnet moth in the UK and can be found across most of the country, including the outer hebrides.
Six-spot Burnet Moth (Zygaena filipendulae) by Tom Lee via Flickr
Cinnabar Moth
Latin name:Tyria jacobaeae Distribution: Throughout UK Size: Medium Identification: Forewings are dark black with a long streak of vibrant red on the outer edge. Antennae are thin and lack the bulbous tip of similar looking Burnet moths. Did you know?: The caterpillars are gregarious feeders of ragwort, and have been intentionally introduced into the United States, Australia and New Zealand to biologically control ragwort.
Cinnabar Moth (Tyria jacobaeae) by Orangeaurochs via Flickr
Common Plume
Latin name:Emmelina monodactyla Distribution: Common in England with increasing scarcity further North Size: Small Identification: This rather bizarre looking moth rests with the wings held away from the body, giving it a unique T shape. Did you know?: These moths have clefts in their wings and plumes at the end of each division of the wing.
Common Plume Moth (Emmelina monodactyla) – Rictor Norton & David Allen via Flickr
The third edition of the Field Guide to the Moths of Great Britain and Ireland has been fully revised, updated and restructured, bringing it in line with the latest thinking in taxonomy.
The fully revised and expanded second edition of the ground-breaking book. This is a complete guide to the Micro-moth families found in the UK. The second edition covers over 1,300 species with more than 1,500 detailed photographs and artworks.
British Moths: A Gateway Guide is a wonderful introduction to 350 species of the most common and eye-catching adult moths that you may encounter in the UK. Species are organised by season, and similar-looking moths are placed alongside one another for ease of identification.
Atlas of Britain and Ireland’s Larger Moths includes accounts for 866 macro-moth species, each with a distribution map showing current and historical occurrences, trends, status, a phenology chart and colour image.
This concise photographic field guide helps you to identify the day-flying moths most likely to be seen in Great Britain and Ireland, combining photographs, clear and authoritative text and an easy-to-use design.
Micro-Moth Field Tips describes how to identify the early stages of more than 170 species of micro-moth larvae at all times of the year. There are 12 chapters, one for each month, as well as recommendations on what micro-moths to look for on field trips at different times of the year. Micro-Moth Field Tips, Volume 2 follows on from the enormous success of the first volume. Designed as being complementary to the first volume, the book has an introduction to the early stages of each family of micro-moths as well as many images of leaf mines.
This 8-page chart shows 103 species of day-flying macro-moths. Paintings show the adult moths at life size and in their natural resting postures. The text, arranged by family with full cross-referencing to images, provides further information on the habitats and distribution of illustrated species.
These 60ml sampling containers are made from see-through polypropylene and have secure screw-on lids. They’re ideal for temporarily keeping small aquatic or terrestrial specimens.
This Opticron Hand Lens contains a high quality 23mm doublet lens, made of glass and provides excellent distortion-free magnification. The 10x magnification is recommended for general observations and this magnifier is the one most commonly recommended for all types of fieldwork.
The NHBS moth trap is a lightweight and highly portable trap, tested and approved by Butterfly Conservation. The starter kit includes 3 x 60m clear collecting pots and the Concise Guide to the Moths of Great Britain and Ireland to help you observe and identify the species you find in your trap.
In this addition to our UK Identification Guide series, we are taking a look at some of our most common garden birds.
Very little is required by way of equipment to watch birds. However, a decent pair of binoculars or scope and a good field guide can go a long way to enhancing the experience and improving your skills. (If you’re looking for suggestions, we’ve included a few of our most popular field guides at the end of this post.)
If you’d like to contribute to the understanding of birds and research into garden wildlife, why not take part in either the BTO’s Garden BirdWatch (all year round) or the RSPB’s Big Garden Birdwatch (annually in January).
Where and when to look for birds
One of the things that makes birdwatching such a great activity is that birds can be found all year round. Although their numbers may fluctuate at various times of year, due to the arrival and departure of various migrants, it is a rare day that you will venture outdoors and fail to see even one of our winged neighbours.
Autumn and winter are particularly good times for garden birdwatching, as this is the time that birds will benefit most from extra nuts and seeds provided in bird feeders; many will flock to gardens to take advantage of this additional source of food. A well positioned bird feeder also allows you to watch birds from the comfort of an armchair, accompanied by a hot cup of tea!
Identification: The Great Tit is the UK’s largest tit species. It has a yellow breast with a central black stripe, a green back, black head and prominent white cheeks.
Identification: An incredibly colourful bird, the Blue Tit has a yellow breast, green back, blue wings and a blue patch on its head. The face is white and a slim black stripe runs horizontally through the eye.
Identification: The Great Spotted Woodpecker has a striking black and white body and wings and is roughly the size of a blackbird. Males have a red patch on the back of the head, and juveniles also have a red crown. They fly with a distinctive swooping up and down style and can often be heard drumming while clinging to a tree trunk.
Identification: The cheeks and breast of the Chaffinch are rust-red (male) or buff-grey (female) coloured and the wings have two distinctive white bars on a dark background. Although they don’t regularly feed openly on bird feeders, they can often be found on the ground beneath and elsewhere in the garden.
Identification: The Nuthatch has a blue-grey back, chestnut sides and a distinctive black eye stripe. It often perches head-down on feeders and tree trunks.
Identification: This brightly coloured finch has a vibrant red face and a yellow wing bar. The black tail has white spots and the rump (visible when in flight) is white.
Identification: A robust looking bird with a bushy plumage. Feathers are streaked brown and black. Male sparrows have a black bib and eye region and the bill is black during breeding. Females often have a buff-coloured ‘eyebrow’.
Identification: Male blackbirds are incredibly striking and have black feathers with a bright orange beak and eye ring. Females are brown and often have spots or streaks on their breast.
Identification: The Coal Tit has a black head, white cheek patches and a white wing bar. The back of the head features an oval white patch. Its back is blue-grey and the underside is buff in colour.
Identification: The Siskin is a small finch which has a black and yellow streaked body and a distinctly forked tail. The male has a black crown and a lot of black in the wing.
Identification: Fairly similar to a House Sparrow, the Dunnock has brown, streaked upper parts and a blue-grey head and breast. This shy bird is often seen creeping around near cover such as bushes or flower beds.
Identification: This small raptor has short, broad wings and a long tail. Adult males are smaller than females and have grey upper parts and rust coloured cheeks and breast. The larger female has grey upper parts and greyish brown breast.
Measurements: Length 28-38cm, wingspan 55-70cm.
Preferred food: Small to medium birds, occasionally bats.
Covering Britain and Europe, this beautifully illustrated book provides all the information needed to identify any species at any time of year, with detailed text on size, habitat, range, identification and voice.
A bestselling guide since it was first published, Britain’s Birds has established itself as the go-to photographic identification guide to the birds of Great Britain and Ireland – the most comprehensive, up-to-date, practical and user-friendly book of its kind.
This revised and updated edition is the definitive guide to British and Irish birds, featuring comprehensive species accounts, stunning artwork, up-to-date distribution maps, and detailed conservation information for each species.
A beginner-friendly guide to 80 common British birds, featuring updated photos, distribution, conservation status, and tips for attracting birds to your garden. Discover fascinating facts about each species and learn what makes them unique, whether in your backyard or the countryside.
During the winter months, cold temperatures and a lack of food can make survival challenging for many species. Some animals, particularly birds, solve this problem by migrating to a warmer location where food is more plentiful. Other animals utilise a different solution and enter a period of torpor or hibernation as a way of conserving energy throughout this time.
During hibernation, the animal will slow their heart rate and breathing while at the same time lowering their metabolism and body temperature, all of which vastly reduce the amount of energy they require. Throughout the hibernation period, the animal may become active again briefly, either for a bathroom break, to eat some food, or if the temperature becomes too low for them to survive without moving. As preparation for a period of hibernation, as much food as possible will be consumed and a suitable refuge or hibernacula found (or built).
Which animals hibernate in the UK?
Dormice, along with bats and hedgehogs, spend the winter months in hibernation. Image by Bruce Detorres via Flickr.
Mammals
Although many small mammals, including mice, shrews, badgers and rabbits, enter short periods of torpor throughout the winter, the only mammals in the UK that truly hibernate are bats, dormice and hedgehogs. Bats utilise hollow trees, roof spaces, caves and bat boxes and will usually spend the entire winter, from November to April, in hibernation. Dormice choose the seemingly riskier solution of making a nest using natural items such as logs and leaves on the floor of forests and woodland. Hedgehogs build hibernacula using dead leaves, twigs, log stacks and compost heaps and, although evidence shows that they rouse several times during their hibernation, they rarely leave these nests. The only exception to this is when the temperature drops too low – at this point they may depart their existing nest and build a completely new one with better insulation! In general, hedgehogs hibernate from November to April, but depending on the temperature and weather, this can vary from year to year.
Reptiles and Amphibians
All reptiles in the UK hibernate. Typically this will begin in October in response to reduced daytime temperature and shorter day length, but it can vary depending on the year and species. In general reptiles will use dry and sheltered spots, often utilising tree roots, abandoned animal burrows or compost heaps.
All species of amphibian in the UK also hibernate, although not all individuals will do so on any given year. In mild winters newts may simply enter a state of low activity rather than complete hibernation. Most amphibians will choose a quiet location in the soil, a compost heap or rockery, or even a garden shed to spend their hibernation. A small number of frogs, however, will hibernate at the bottom of a pond.
Insects
Bumblebee colonies die off in the autumn with only the new queens surviving. To make it through the winter, these queens burrow into the soil where they are protected from the cold and weather for up to nine months! Honey bees use a different strategy and do not hibernate as such – instead they survive as a reduced-size colony which huddles together with the queen at the centre. The bees rotate their positions so that each takes its turn on the outside where the temperature is lowest.
Most butterflies spend the winter in larval form. Several species however, including Brimstone, Peacock and Comma will hibernate as adults, using either vegetation such as bramble and ivy, or outdoor structures such as garden sheds and barns.
Ladybirds survive the cold winter by hibernating in rotting logs, under leaf litter or even inside houses. They like to hibernate in colonies, often forming groups containing thousands of individuals.
Ladybirds emerging from hibernation. Image by Dr. Mary Gillham Archive Project via Flickr.
Climate change and hibernation
Most animals that hibernate rely on a combination of cues such as day length and temperature to know when it is the right time. As climate change continues to affect local and global temperatures and weather patterns, many animals are hibernating later in the year and becoming active again earlier in the spring, as temperatures during the winter are now often much warmer. Hibernating for a shorter period can put pressure on food availability and can cause a mismatch in the timing when animals require a resource and when that resource is available. For example, bees emerging from hibernation require a ready supply of nectar. If they emerge earlier than usual however, before flowering season, this food source may not be available to them.
Always make sure to check your bonfire for hibernating animals! Image by Ian Carroll via Flickr.
How can I help hibernating animals?
• Leaving some areas of your garden that are untidy and overgrown will provide plenty of space for animals to hibernate over the winter. Piles of logs, long grass and compost heaps all provide safe places for animals such as snakes, hedgehogs and other small mammals.
• If you’re celebrating bonfire night, don’t forget to check the bonfire for hibernating animals before you light it – particularly if you have built the structure several days or weeks before the big night.
• Providing artificial hibernacula in your garden, such as a bat box, hedgehog house, or insect box, will help to provide suitable hibernation spots for these species.
• If you find a butterfly that has chosen to hibernate inside your house, it’s best to gently relocate it to an unheated building outside, such as a shed or garage. (Central heating is extremely damaging to a hibernating butterfly and will desiccate their delicate wings and bodies).
• Don’t forget those animals that don’t hibernate over winter. Birds in particular will benefit from a variety of foods such as peanuts, mealworms, fat balls and seed.
Moth trapping typically involves the use of an artificial light source such as a Mercury Vapour or Actinic bulb to attract moths during the night. In a traditional moth trap the bulb is suspended over a box into which the moths fly, and from where they can be examined and identified before being safely released. However, it is also possible to use the bulb in combination with a white sheet (either laid flat on the ground or suspended vertically using poles and lines) in order to view the moths that are attracted to it. Obviously this technique relies on the light being attended so that moths can be observed as they arrive, as opposed to with a box-style moth trap which can be left unattended overnight and the catch checked in the morning.
Several different types of moth trap are widely available. Take a look at our previous blog post for more information about the most common types of trap; including the Robinson trap, Skinner trap and Heath trap. Options include those which are powered by the mains, as well as battery powered models.
Alternative methods of attracting moths for survey and identification include sugaring, whereby a sweet solution (such as a mixture of treacle, sugar and ale) is painted onto a wooden post in order to attract moths. Similarly, wine-roping involves saturating a natural-fibre rope in a mixture of red wine and sugar for a couple of days and then hanging it from a bush or tree. Both of these methods are most effective during the autumn, winter and early spring when natural sources of nectar are at their lowest. Another very easy method of searching for moths simply involves using a torch to search tree trunks for resting individuals. This low-tech option is particularly fruitful between November and March when there are fewer flying moths and when a light-based moth trap is less effective.
Buff Tip. Image by L Wilkes.
When is the best time for moth trapping?
In general, in the UK, a moth trap can be used from early March to November with varying degrees of success. In woodland habitats they will be effective over more of the season, whereas in open habitats, they are more useful between mid-April and mid-September. Peak months for moth trapping tend to be July and August.
Traps should be set up during the final hour or so of daylight and left to run overnight or for several hours if you wish to stay and monitor the catch. Otherwise, you can simply return at first light to see what your trap has caught. Robinson traps are the only style of trap that will retain all of the catch but other designs such as Skinner and Heath traps still have good retention rates.
Some of the stunning species commonly arriving at moth traps in the UK. Images by O Haines.
Where should I put my moth trap?
For many people, particularly beginners, the easiest place to begin moth trapping is in the garden. Those with a wide range of flowering plants, especially species with scented flowers such as Jasmine, Honeysuckle, Buddleia and Fuschia, will be particularly attractive to moths. If you own a battery-powered trap (or a generator) then woodlands (broad-leaved or coniferous), wetlands and coastal areas are all good options; each are home to a different range of species.
Traps using a Mercury Vapour bulb, which are much brighter than Actinic ones, are particularly suitable for open habitats and in woodland rides, whilst Actinic traps work well under the canopy or in the understory.
Make sure that you get permission from the landowner of the place where you are trapping. If you wish to trap in a nature reserve, always contact the reserve manager for permission – usually they will be more than happy to give this, particularly if you provide them with the records of species caught afterwards.
What else do I need to know?
• Placing several egg boxes in the base of your trap provides captured moths with a textured surface and a variety of gaps and crevices to roost inside. It also makes emptying the trap easier in the morning, as egg boxes can be removed individually for checking.
• Placing a white sheet underneath often attracts moths that do not enter the trap itself.
• Having a selection of tubs or pots at the ready can be useful for temporarily holding individual moths for further examination. Pots with a magnifying lid, or a separate hand lens are useful for picking out the finer details, particularly on smaller specimens. When handling moths, be as careful as possible not to touch their delicate wings, as the oils on your hands can be damaging to them.
• When trapping in a garden, it is important not to run your trap on consecutive nights, as this increases the chance of the same individuals being trapped on a repeated basis. (In large gardens, this problem can be avoided if it is possible to release the moths at least 50m away from the trapping sight).
• Make sure that moths are released in an overgrown location to minimise the risk of them being predated by birds. If you wish to release them in the evening, cover the trap and place it in a cool, shaded location during the day.
• The weather can be extremely important when choosing which nights to trap. Warm, still nights with plenty of cloud cover are likely to produce the best catches. Strong winds, heavy rain and clear nights, particularly when there is a full moon, will be less productive. Nights with a steady drizzle, however, should not be avoided and can be surprisingly good for trapping.
• Records of your catches can be kept and submitted to your local county recorder, or uploaded on the National Moth Recording Scheme website. This information will help to inform conservation efforts for moths and their habitats at both local and national levels.
A good field guide is invaluable in identifying your catch. Image by O Haines.
Recommended identification guides
Field Guide to the Moths of Great Britain and Ireland #243658
The third edition of this notable field guide has been fully revised, updated and restructured. Moths are illustrated in their natural resting postures, and there are also paintings of different forms, underwings and other details to help with identification.
Concise Guide to the Moths of Great Britain and Ireland #246490
This concise guide is a companion to the main Field Guide to the Moths of Great Britain and Ireland by the same expert authors, but is in a condensed form with artwork opposite the species descriptions and lay-flat binding for ease of use in the field.
Field Guide to the Micro-Moths of Great Britain and Ireland #243663
This ground-breaking book is the most comprehensive field guide to micro-moths ever published and for the first time makes this fascinating and important group of insects accessible to the general naturalist.
Over time nest boxes can become home to parasites such as lice, fleas and mites, so giving them a thorough clean at the end of each breeding season is good practice to ensure the health and safety of the birds nesting there. Removing old nest material also means that the following year’s birds can build their own nest as far as possible from the box entrance hole, thus reducing the risk of predation.
When to clean your nest boxes
The best time to clean out your nest boxes is in the autumn, after any young birds have fledged. Any time between September and January is fine, but bear in mind that birds who have raised a late brood may still be occupying boxes throughout September. By cleaning boxes during October or early November, you will also be able to leave them undisturbed for birds to roost in during the winter. Unhatched eggs may only be legally removed between 1st September and 31st January (or 1st August and 31st January in Scotland) and any eggs must be destroyed.
What you need
• Rubber gloves
• Stiff brush or nest cleaning tool
• Boiling water
• Wood shavings/clean hay (optional)
What to do
1. If possible, remove the box from the tree/wall so that you can safely work at ground level. 2. Wearing rubber gloves, remove old nesting material from the box, along with any unhatched eggs. Eggs must be disposed of – it is illegal to keep them. If possible, try to remove the nest in one piece, as it is fascinating to study the structure and to see the variety of materials that have been used in its construction. This is a great thing to do with children! 3. Use a nest cleaning tool or stiff bristled brush to clean out any remaining debris from the box corners. 4. Use boiling water to kill any lice, fleas or parasites. Don’t use soap, insecticides or flea powders as the residues of these can be harmful to birds. Leave the box open, preferably in a sunny spot, so that it can dry out. 5. Placing some clean hay or wood shavings in the base of the box may encourage mammals to hibernate or birds to roost in the box over winter. This is not essential, however, and any nesting birds arriving in the spring will bring in their own nest-building material.
Cleaning Bird Feeders
While you’re in the garden cleaning your nest boxes, why not take the opportunity to clean out your feeders and bird table too, ready for use over the winter. To thoroughly clean a bird feeder, first empty out all of the old food. Mix up a solution of animal-safe disinfectant in a bucket and soak the feeders for 10-15 minutes. Use a bottle brush to scrub them then rinse thoroughly in cold water. Leave feeders to dry before refilling.
Health and Safety
By following a few simple guidelines you can make sure that both the birds’ and your own health are not compromised. Always wear rubber gloves when cleaning out your nest boxes and feeders and make sure to wash your hands and forearms well with hot soapy water when you have finished. Take care not to breathe in any of the dust when emptying out the remains of old nests. Both nest boxes and feeders should be cleaned outside rather than bringing them into the house. If possible, nest boxes should be removed for cleaning, as dealing with boiling water while perched at the top of a ladder is not advisable. All brushes and equipment used for cleaning boxes, feeders and bird tables should be cleaned after use and should only be used for this purpose.
From mould to yeast, fungi are a diverse kingdom with over 15,000 species in the UK. Fungi are made up of different microscopic thread like bodies called hyphae, and collectively hyphae form mycelium. Mushrooms or toadstools are the reproductive, umbrella shaped fruiting bodies of certain fungi. These organisms can be found in almost every natural habitat, but more kinds of macro-fungi tend to be found in woodlands, as they provide a rich and continuing nutrient source and a wide range of microhabitats.
Autumn is a great time of the year to explore the fascinating world of fungi, as most species enjoy the slightly cooler and wetter conditions. To those familiar with identifying plants, birds and mammals, mushroom and fungi identification can be a tricky task requiring a different kind of approach. However there are some distinct, common species that are much easier to identify than others, and getting a great ID book can really help. In this blog we focus on 10 common, easier to identify types of mushrooms and toadstools found in the UK, alongside some key characteristics and where to find them.
How to identify:
Some fungi cannot be identified without a microscope, however those in this blog can be identified using macro characteristics displayed by the fruiting body. Most are umbrella or mushroom shaped with gills on the cap underside. Below are some key characteristics to look out for when identifying:
Fruiting body – shape, colour and size
Gills – in particular how they attach to the stem, a spore print can also be taken
Stem – shape, colour, size
Smell and texture
Habitat
Mushroom picking and safety
This blog has not been written to be used for finding edible species, please be cautious as fungi can be highly poisonous.
1. Hedgehog Fungus – Hydnum repandum
Hedgehog Fungus by Lynn Martin via Flickr
Other common names: Wood Hedgehog, Sweet Tooth or Pied de Mouton
Identification: In place of gills, this species has spines (stalactite-like projections) under the cap, making it look rather hedgehog like. The spines are paler than the cap, and the cap is creamy, medium-sized and fleshy. Cap is 3-17 cm across. Stem is short and stocky.
Where to find them: On soil among litter, under broad-leaved woodland, in particular with beech or oak, sometimes with other species, including in coniferous woods; often in troops.
2. Giant Puffball – Calvatia gigantea
Giant Puffball by Ciska van Geer via Flickr
Identification: One of the largest fungi in the UK, it is similar in size to a football. The young fruiting bodies are solid, white, thin and smooth and then later turn olive, then finally brown when it opens. When mature it is roughly 20-75 cm across. There is no stem, however it can be connected to the ground by a fine root like filament.
Where to find: Can be found in grasslands, pasture, lawns, commons and roadsides, and can be found in open woodlands, often with nettles and rubbish.
3. Wood Blewit – Lepista nuda or Clitocybe nuda
Wood Blewit by Julie via Flickr
Identification: Has a blue to violet tinged cap and gills when young, however older caps turn tan or grey from the centre. Gills are crowded and grow into the stalk and fade to brown as the mushroom matures. The cap is roughly 5-15 cm across, and the stem 5-10 cm tall.
Where to find: Amongst leaf litter in woods, hedgerows and gardens. Can also be found in grasslands away from trees
4. Common Inkcap – Coprinopsis atramentaria
Common Inkcap by Roy Lowry via Flickr
Other common names: Inky Cap
Identification: A grey to fawn cap that is at first egg-shaped and then later bell shaped. The surface is smooth and splits into a few tiny scales from the apex, the edges are often wavy and split. Stem is white and hollow. Cap is around 4-8 cm across and stem is 5-15 cm tall.
Where to find: Very common – wherever there is buried wood.
5. Fly Agaric – Amanita muscaria
Fly Agaric by Derek Parker via Flickr
Other common names: Fly Amanita
Identification: One of the most iconic toadstools depicted in fairy-tale illustrations. It has a shiny, scarlet red or orange cap with white wart-like spots dotted across. Cap is 8-20 cm across. The gills are white and free, and the stem is swollen with rings of scales.
Where to find: In mixed woodlands and heaths, mostly amongst birch, pine and spruce.
6. Jelly Ear – Auricularia auricula-judae
Jelly Ear by Steve Balcombe via Flickr
Other common names: Jew’s Ear or Wood Ear
Identification: Initially cup-shaped and smoothed, the fruiting body develops lobes in the shape of a wrinkled human ear. Soft, gelatinous and a date-brown colour, but when it dries it is much smaller, darker and harder. Upper surface is velvety, and is attached laterally by a small stalk. Up to 8cm across.
Where to find: Commonly found on living or dead wood of elder, but also recorded on many other woody species.
7. Common Stinkhorn – Phallus impudicus
Common Stinkhorn by Obas via Flickr
Identification: Known for releasing a foul odour to attract flies which eat the spore-bearing slimy head. The foul smell can be detected far and wide, most often before seeing it. Initially it appears like a white egg which feels soft, but then later splits at the apex and a thick, white hollow stem appears with a polystyrene texture. Head is conical shaped, slimy and olive-green topped by a small, white ring. Grows up to 25 cm tall.
Where to find: Among leaf litter in woodlands and also in gardens.
8. Chicken of the Woods – Laetiporus sulphureus
Chicken of the Woods by Thijs de Bruin via Flickr
Other common names: Sulphur Polypore, Crab of the Woods and Sulphur Shelf
Identification: A thick, fleshy, bracket that is fan-shaped and soft to touch. Older brackets become sharp-edged with a dry, chalky texture. The upper surface is initially bright orange or yellow with a velvety touch, this later fades to a creamy-yellow with a smooth, dry surface. The very small pores on the underside are a pale yellow. Bracket is 10-40cm across.
Where to find: Can be found growing tiered mostly on oak trunks but also on sweet chestnut, yew and beech.
9. Scarlet Elfcup – Sarcoscypha austriaca
Scarlet Elfcup by Claire Dell via Flickr
Identification: Are cup-shaped and scarlet, however can also be bright orange. Stems attach to the leaf litter making them appear as hollow bowls lying on the woodland floors. Cups are roughly 4cm across.
Where to find: Although not very common it is reasonably widespread, and can be found in damp, shady areas on decaying sticks and branches. It can be found on the fallen twigs and branches of hazel, elm and willow in late winter and early spring.
10. Beefsteak Fungus – Fistulina hepatica
Beefsteak Fungus by Curiosity thrills via Flickr
Identification: This strange fungus appears like an ox tongue or piece of raw meat and oozes a blood like substance when cut. When young the bracket is soft and moist with a pinky-red upperside and broad margin. Older brackets are a liver-brown and much firmer with a sharp edge. The underside has yellow pores which release red-brown spores and often exude a red, blood like liquid. Brackets are about 8-20 cm across and 3-6 cm thick.
Where to find: Usually found low on the trunk of old, living oak trees and sweet chestnut trees, and sometimes on their stumps.
Recommended Reading/Guides:
Collins Fungi Guide: The Most Complete Field Guide to the Mushrooms & Toadstools of Britain & Ireland #195386
Nearly 2400 species are illustrated in full colour, with detailed notes on how to correctly identify them, including details of similar, confusing species.
An accessible and enjoyable mini reference about the world’s fungi, covering morphology, diversity, reproduction, habitat and conservation with over 140 colour illustrations and photographs
Collins Complete Guide to British Mushrooms & Toadstools #169912
By only covering Britain and Ireland, fewer species are included than in many broader European guides, making it quicker and easier for the reader to accurately identify what they have found.
Geoffrey Kibby is one of Britain’s foremost experts on identifying mushrooms in the field and has published a range of excellent guides/handbooks to mushroom identification.
This illustrated mini field guide is packed with information on 200 species of fungi found in Britain and the near Continent.
Edible Mushrooms: A Forager’s Guide to the Wild Fungi of Britain, Ireland and Europe #228419
An up-to-date, comprehensive and brilliantly illustrated book on fungi foraging in Britain and Europe. It covers every known edible species, and all the poisonous groups, as well as a few other extremely common ones.
The Fungi Name-Trail: A Key to Commoner Fungi #146398
Key to some of the more easily recognised fungi present in Britain’s woods and fields. The name trial takes you through a series of yes or no questions to help you identify your fungi.
Seaweeds, or marine macroalgae, are plant-like organisms that live in coastal areas, usually attached to rocks or other substrates. They are divided into three taxonomic groups: brown, red and green. Broadly speaking, species fall into the group that most closely matches their colour. However, the groups also differ in more complex structural and biochemical features, such as their photosynthetic pigments and cell structure. While green and red seaweeds are classified in the Kingdom Plantae, which also includes all of the world’s land plants, brown seaweeds belong to the Kingdom Chromista and are more related to algae, diatoms and protozoans.
British and Irish seas are home to more than 600 species of seaweed; this is more than 6% of the known species globally. They are incredibly important ecologically and provide both food and shelter for numerous other creatures. In fact, one of the great pleasures of studying seaweeds is the many other species that you find along the way.
If you find yourself enjoying your seaweed studies, why not contribute to the Natural History Museum’s Big Seaweed Search. It only takes around an hour and will provide valuable data that can be used to research the effects of environmental change on our seashore communities.
When and where to find seaweed
Seaweed is present all year round. At low tide, more of the shore will be exposed which means that you are likely to find a greater range of species. This is also the only time that you are likely to spot a glimpse of those seaweeds that thrive in the lower intertidal zone. Sheltered shores tend to provide a better location for many species, as most cannot survive the battering of the waves in more exposed locations. However, there are a few species that are specially adapted to live on exposed shores so it’s always worth a look there. Similarly, as most species require a firm substrate to anchor to, rocky shores will be home to more seaweeds than sandy or muddy ones.
Ten common species to look for
Brown seaweeds:
Bladder wrack (Fucus vesiculosus)
Bladderwrack from the Dr. Mary Gillham Archive Project via Flickr.
ID notes: An olive-brown seaweed that has branching fronds with smooth edges. Paired air-filled bladders run along the length of the fronds on either side of the central rib. 15-100cm in length. The number of bladders present is related to the exposure of the shore; in very exposed places this species may grow without any bladders and will also be much reduced in length.
Distribution: Found on rocky shores between the high and low water line.
Knotted wrack (Ascophylum nodosum)
Knotted wrack from the Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project via Flickr.
Also known as: Egg wrack
ID notes: This yellow-brown seaweed has long fronds reaching up to two metres in length. Single large air bladders appear at regular intervals along its length.
Distribution: Found on the mid-shore on sheltered rocky coasts. Knotted wrack is very long-lived (up to 15 years) in comparison to other algae; this allows it to become dominant on many sheltered coastlines. When the tide goes out it often forms huge piles.
Spiral wrack (Fucus spiralis)
Spiral wrack from the Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project via Flickr
Also known as: Twisted wrack
ID notes: Spiral wrack is generally a pale olive-brown and grows up to 40cm. As the name would suggest, fronds are generally (although not always) twisted and have smooth edges and a distinct central rib. When mature, fronds have yellowish, paired swollen tips; these are the reproductive structures.
Distribution: Found high on the rocky shore, just below the high-water mark.
ID notes: This brown seaweed forms branched fronds 50 to 80cm in length. Edges are serrated.
Distribution: Found on sheltered and semi-exposed rocky shores just above the low water mark. Fucus serratus is often the dominant algal species found at this point on the shoreline.
ID notes: Oarweed has dark brown-green fronds that are up to two metres in length and split into long finger-like blades. Attaches to the rock with a claw-like holdfast which allows it to survive in rough subtidal conditions.
Distribution: Grows in dense beds in the lower intertidal and shallow subtidal zones (at a depth of up to 20m). Often all that can be seen of this species are the tops of the fronds during low tide.
ID notes: Sheet-like light green seaweed which grows up to 25cm in length and 30cm in width. Very delicate and almost translucent; almost like floppy lettuce leaves.
Distribution: Found attached to rocks or floating in rock pools.
ID notes: As the Latin name would suggest, gutweed resembles the intestines of mammals and consists of inflated hollow fronds which have bubbles of air trapped along them. Bright green and grows up to 40cm in length.
Distribution: Occurs in a wide range of intertidal habitats including rockpools and on sand or mud. Can also be found growing on shells or other seaweeds.
Red seaweeds:
Carrageen (Chondrus crispus)
Carrageen from the Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project via Flickr
Also known as: Irish moss
ID notes: Dark reddish-purple branching seaweed which appears iridescent when submerged. Turns green with exposure to bright sunlight.
Distribution: Rocky shores and estuaries, on rocks and in pools in the lower intertidal and upper subtidal zones.
Purple laver (Porphyra umbilicalis)
Purple laver from the Dr Mary Gillham Archive Project via Flickr
ID notes: Forms fronds of variable shape which are thin and membranous. Olive to purple-brown in colour and up to two metres in length.
Distribution: Found in the mid to upper shore, generally on mussel-covered rocks. Common on exposed coastlines.
This photographic guide aims to demystify seaweed identification for the non-specialist. Over 235 species are described in detail, with colour photographs, information on habitat, distribution and confusion species.
While you’re in the garden cleaning your nest boxes, why not take the opportunity to clean out your feeders and bird table too, ready for use over the winter. To thoroughly clean a bird feeder, first empty out all of the old food. Mix up a solution of animal-safe disinfectant in a bucket and soak the feeders for 10-15 minutes. Use a 
