Review – Page 3 – Hoopoe

Buyers’ Guide: Trail Cameras

Quick links:
Introduction
Key features
Our suggestions
Accessories
Recommended reading

Introduction

Trail cameras are an invaluable piece of technology allowing users to monitor wildlife without disturbing the animal. The trail cameras in our range can take pictures and video during the day and at night using infrared (IR) imaging technology. Likewise, they can endure tough conditions, surviving harsh winds, rain and extreme temperatures making them suitable for almost all situations.

At NHBS we sell a wide range of trail cameras, and while this does give customers plenty of choice, it can sometimes be difficult to decide which camera will best suit your situation and requirements. The information in this guide will help you to make an informed choice.

Key features

No-glow or low-glow?

There are two main types of IR LEDs that trail cameras use to capture images in low-light conditions: no-glow and low-glow. No-glow LEDs produce a very small amount of visible light which is not visible to the human eye, animals will likely see very little of this light; although, this may well depend on the species. Low-glow LEDs do produce a faint glow, and so are not completely invisible and may alert certain animals. One advantage of low-glow cameras is their capacity to illuminate over a longer range.

Trigger speed and recovery time

Trigger speed is the time taken for a trail camera to take a photo once movement has been detected. Recovery time is how long it takes for a camera to take a photo and be ready to capture another one. A camera with a rapid trigger speed like the Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 is ideal for capturing images of fast-moving creatures. Likewise, if you are looking to capture multiple images in a short time frame, a trail camera with a speedy recovery time is the best option. Once more, this is perfect for those quick-moving animals.

Resolution and interpolation

Resolution is a major influence on the quality of your images and videos. It is important to bear in mind, however, that the photograph megapixel ratings offered by manufacturers are often inflated and the result of a process called interpolation. Many trail cameras have the option of adjusting the resolution – increasing it through interpolation or decreasing it through compression. Compression can be useful for saving storage space by reducing the number of pixels. Interpolation digitally adds pixels to an image which eats up storage and generates longer recovery times while doing next to nothing to enhance picture quality. The best way to compare picture quality is to look at sample photographs.

Flash range and motion detection range

If you are planning on monitoring an open area where you expect animals to pass by at a distance, the motion detection range and flash range of a trail camera are worth considering. Motion detection range is the maximum distance a trail camera can register the movement of an animal. The flash range is how far the IR flash will reach. If the flash range is low and an animal is at a distance, you may not see the animal clearly in low-light pictures.

Cellular and solar cameras

Cellular cameras are an excellent choice if you are looking for remote access to your trail camera’s photos and settings without having to regularly interact with your camera in the field. Likewise, the addition of a small solar panel to your trail camera can improve deployment time. This is particularly useful when deploying multiple cameras at the same time or when monitoring inaccessible locations.

Our range of Spypoint cameras are an excellent choice when considering cellular or solar cameras. The Spypoint CELL-LINK, however, enables cellular functionality for trail cameras from non-Spypoint brands and you can purchase solar panels for Bushnell and Browning cameras.

Our suggestions

Entry-level cameras

The Browning Strike Force Pro X 1080 is ideal for those looking for high quality at an affordable price. This low-glow Browning camera boasts a rapid 0.22 second trigger speed, a colour screen, and superb picture quality.

Alternatively, if you are looking for an economical no-glow camera, the Browning Dark Ops Pro X 1080 is an excellent choice.

Popular cameras

The Bushnell CORE DS-4K is an excellent trail camera featuring top-of-the-range picture quality and no-glow IR LEDs, keeping disturbance to a minimum. Additionally, this camera will last for an extended period out in the field due to its long battery life.

Another trail camera with excellent picture quality, the low-glow Browning Recon Force Elite HP5 is an outstanding all-rounder. One benefit of this camera is its longer IR flash range when compared to the Bushnell CORE DS-4K, allowing for improved low-light imagery when the animal is further away.

If you are monitoring a particularly quick species, the Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5’s trigger speed can be adjusted to a lightning-fast 0.1 seconds. This stealthy no-glow camera also features a rapid 0.5 second recovery time and excellent picture quality both during the day and at night, making it one of the top trail cameras in our range.

Accessories

Powering your trail camera

Lithium batteries are essential for operating your trail camera effectively. One of the most common reasons for why a trail camera is not working properly is the use of non-lithium batteries. Most of our trail cameras can be purchased as part of a bundle which includes lithium batteries and a suitable memory card.

Keeping your trail camera safe

The 180cm long Python Lock is ideal for securing your trail camera to trees and posts and preventing theft.

Our range of security boxes will provide additional protection against theft and damage. Double check that the security box you are purchasing is compatible with your trail camera model.

Buyers’ Guide: Bat Boxes

Quick links:
Introduction to bat boxes
Bat box design
Bat box materials
Mounting and installing bat boxes
Further information
Accessories and suggested reading

Introduction to bat boxes

Globally there are over 1,400 different species of bat and the UK inhabits 18 of these bat species. Although UK bat species do not create their own roost sites, they will roost in trees and occupy spaces that are created by other animals or decaying trees. But due to the removal of trees and suitable habitat, bats will now often favour human-made roosting sites. The addition of available roost sites is an important way to help prevent the ever-declining UK bat populations.

When choosing which bat box fits your needs, there are a few things to consider – the design of the bat box, the material, and the mounting and installation method. These features can be determined by identifying the target bat species alongside the location and habitat you wish to situate the bat box.

Bat box design

There are several types of bat box design and these can be split into crevice, cavity and hybrid boxes, as well as hibernation, maternity and heated boxes.

Crevice boxes provide a narrower roost space for species that naturally prefer smaller roosts, such as Brandts, Natterers and Pipistrelles, whereas cavity boxes offer a more spacious roost space favoured in general by the larger bat species such as the Greater and Lesser Horseshoe, Barbastelle and Brown Long-eared. Some boxes are designed to be hybrid boxes, meaning they can accommodate both cavity and crevice bat species.

Crevice: Low Profile WoodStone Bat Box

Cavity: Improved Cavity Bat Box

Hybrid: General Purpose Bat Box

Hibernation and maternity boxes are similar in their design to provide a warm and safe roosting space. Both boxes tend to be well insulated and larger in size with multiple internal chambers, especially important for maternity boxes that accommodate breeding colonies. There are also heated bat boxes; in these, the temperature is controlled by an external thermostat and can aid with mitigation schemes for the loss of bat maternity sites.

Hibernation: Large Multi Chamber WoodStone Bat Box

Maternity: Causa Maternity Bat Box

Heated: Heated Bat Roost Box

Bat box materials

Bat boxes can be made from a number of different materials; these vary in longevity, durability and often price. The most common materials are wood (often timber); a wood and concrete blend, sometimes known as woodstone or woodcrete; eco-plastic; and concrete. Below is a brief description of each alongside one of our best sellers.

Wooden bat boxes

Lightweight
Suitable for externally mounting on both trees and buildings
Less robust and shorter longevity than woodstone/woodcrete boxes

Double Chamber Bat Box

Woodstone and woodcrete bat boxes

Very durable and long-lasting
Well insulated
Can be built in or externally mounted to buildings
Heavier than wooden and eco-plastic boxes

Beaumaris Woodstone Bat Box

Eco-plastic bat boxes

Sustainably sourced recycled plastic
Lighter than woodstone/woodcrete and more durable than wooden boxes
Although made from recycled plastic, it is still plastic

Integrated Eco Bat Box

Concrete bat boxes

Very durable
Very heavy and can only be built directly into buildings

Bat Block

Mounting and installing bat boxes

Bat boxes fall into externally mounted or integrated boxes. Mounted boxes can be fixed to trees, fences or buildings, and integrated boxes are built directly into the brickwork of a building.

Externally mounted boxes can vary in size and material, and often they are wooden or woodstone/woodcrete. When choosing an externally mounted bat box, it is important to consider the weight of the box and the surface you are mounting the box to. Some are lighter and ideal for mounting on trees, while some are more durable and can be fixed to buildings.

All bat boxes should be positioned in an open and sunny location (ideally boxes should have 6-8 hours of direct sunlight), around 3-6 metres high (the higher the better). It is important to avoid placing these close to any artificial lights such as streetlamps or security lights. External mounted boxes can be attached via a hanger or fixing bracket and it is best to fix using aluminium nails.

Vivara Pro WoodStone Bat Box

2F Schwegler Bat Box (General Purpose)

Integrated bat boxes are self-contained concrete roosts. They are popular with new housing developments as they are unobtrusive and often aesthetically pleasing. The boxes can be built flush to the wall or beneath a rendered surface, and each box has an entry point that must be left exposed for the bats to access the box. Some boxes are plain for rendering or can be custom faced with a chosen brick type which adds to their discreteness.

Habibat Bat Box 001

Vivara Pro Build-in WoodStone Bat Box

There are also pole-mounted bat boxes (sometimes known as rocket boxes). These bat boxes are helpful alternatives in areas where there is nowhere to mount the bat box. An additional benefit is that they ensure that the bat box gains maximum sunlight in shaded areas.

Pole Mounted Large Colony Bat Box

Lastly, there are bat roost access titles and bricks. These are designed to provide bats with access points within roof or ridge tiles. Some bats will roost in the confined spaces beneath the tiles and others will use the open roof space to roost.

Bat Access Tile Set

Further information

We supply a wide range of bat boxes, and we hope this Buyer’s Guide is informative and provides a useful breakdown of the different types available to help you decide which bat boxes best suits your needs.

For further information, please get in contact with us directly and take a look at our blogs including The NHBS Guide to UK Bat Identification and the NHBS Guide: Where to hang and how to maintain your bat box.

Accessories and suggested reading

Heavy Duty Aluminium Nails

Xtend & Climb Pro Telescopic Ladder

A Miscellany of Bats

Bat Calls of Britain and Europe: A Guide to Species Identification

Our full range of bat boxes can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

Book Review: Ghosts in the Hedgerow: A Hedgehog Whodunnit

Ghosts in the Hedgerow is the new book by conservation research scientist Dr Tom Moorhouse. His previous book, Elegy for a River, was a heartfelt tribute to UK rivers and included many wonderful tales of his fieldwork adventures beside rivers, fens, lakes and more. He discussed the threats currently facing these habitats and their occupants, the conservation work currently taking place and what he believes is needed to repair the degradation that has occurred. Ghosts in the Hedgerow follows a similar format but instead looks at Britain’s favourite mammal – the hedgehog.

Moorhouse presents the full story of the hedgehogs’ plight in the face of humanity, following three years of conservation research focusing on the species. This book opens with a classic fictional murder mystery scene: the guests are gathered around a detective who announces that a murder has occurred, the murder of a hedgehog. This tongue-in-cheek opening with its amusing if perhaps stereotypical cast of characters makes the data-dense introductory chapter easy to read. Snippets of this continue throughout as welcome breaks to the often sombre topics covered. The book is split into five more sections, the first four covering each main ‘suspect’ in the decline of hedgehogs: cars, agriculture, modern gardens, and the badger – a species which is also the focus of conservation efforts. The final section ‘A Murderer Unmasked’ and the afterword ‘One Final Word’ presents Moorhouse’s solution.

The second chapter, ‘Driven to Destruction’, highlights the main obstacle behind identifying the significant causes of hedgehog decline and developing an effective solution: the lack of accurate population estimates. It is generally quoted that there were around 36 million individuals in the 1950s. But it is worth noting that this number was based on one ‘survey’ where ten hedgehogs were seen in ten acres on a single walk, thus estimating a population density of one hedgehog per non-urban acre in Great Britain, regardless of habitat type (excluding upland areas where hedgehogs are known to be scarce). Current estimations of the overall population are based on various smaller surveys of hedgehogs within certain habitats, with that data extrapolated based on the amount of these habitats in the UK. But due to the small number of these habitat surveys and their short study time, each current population estimate has limited reliability. Without accurate and reliable population estimates, the true impact of the various threats is unclear, and the implemention and monitoring of conservation efforts can be jeopardised.

Moorhouse also highlights another issue with hedgehog conservation, or with conservation in general, in chapter three, ‘The Tale of Tommy Brock’, – trade-offs. No conservation effort occurs in a vacuum, just as no species lives in a vacuum. Any efforts made for one species will likely have an impact on another, whether that be positive or negative. Badgers have faced decades of persecution, often being the scapegoat of many agricultural issues. Their populations had declined so much that they were considered uncommon, until the 1980s when concerted efforts were made to protect them. Badgers are now one of the most protected species in the UK and their numbers are up 50-80% (depending on the survey data). Ghosts in the Hedgerow discusses one of the potential environmental trade-offs of this conservation success – the impact on hedgehogs, one of the badgers’ prey items. Hedgehogs tend to avoid badgers, so they are increasingly pushed out of more and more areas as badger numbers increase. This story is not as simple as it first seems, however, as badgers are found not to be the most important factor when studies examined hedgehog densities. Additionally, as Moorhouse points out, badgers and hedgehogs have coexisted for thousands of years; while they may be contributing towards hedgehog decline, it is unlikely that they are the root cause.

Throughout the book, Moorhouse takes these complicated factors and picks them apart, examining the reliability of the data and challenging baseless assumptions. He discusses the impact of hedgerow removal in the 1930s and 40s, the emerging threat of automatic lawnmowers, the problem of enclosed gardens and the reluctance of landowners to cut holes into fences for ‘hedgehog highways’. He includes injuries caused by strimmers, the impact of slug pellet overuse, the massive loss of invertebrate biomass and diversity, and the increasing impacts of agricultural conversion and intensification, and urban expansion. Each one of these stressors may have been survivable on its own if it weren’t for the others. Therefore, it is not one ‘murderer’ but the synergistic interaction between a combination of stressors creating a cumulative effect on hedgehog populations. Moorhouse refers to it as ‘death by a thousand cuts’.

The final sections of Ghosts in the Hedgerow, chapter six ‘A Murderer Unmasked’ and the afterword ‘One Final Word’, is where Moorhouse presents his solution. The important part of any conservation proposal is to make sure, as Moorhouse puts it, it doesn’t result in a “trade-off in human lives”. Moorhouse suggests small lifestyle changes, for instance reducing your meat intake, particularly beef as its production is a major cause of biodiversity loss and global emissions; purchasing food from farms that use less environmentally harmful chemicals or practices; writing to MPs about local ventures such as planting street trees and traffic reductions; recording hedgehog sightings; and allowing your garden to become wilder and more accessible. The book ends on a final word, a collation of advice from several well-known and passionate hedgehog lovers, experts and authors, including David Wembridge, Hugh Warwick and Pat Morris. He believes that these small-scale personal changes, alongside more large-scale governmental and policy changes, such as more environmentally friendly regulations for new building developments, more sustainably managed public green spaces and serious reductions in consumption and food waste, might give hedgehogs the best possible opportunity to thrive.

Ghosts in the Hedgerow is a funny but serious, light-hearted but uncomfortably honest lament for the plight of our favourite mammal and a strong call for widespread conservation to be implemented. It is a well-researched and compelling read, filled with footnotes, puns and anecdotes that bring this topic to life. This truly is the perfect read for anyone who loves hedgehogs, wants to be more wildlife friendly, or is just interested in the complicated problems of conservation efforts in Britain.

Ghosts in the Hedgerow: A Hedgehog Whodunnit
By: Tom Moorhouse
Hardback | March 2023

Buyers’ Guide: Sweep and Butterfly Nets

Quick links:
Introduction
Key features
Entry-level choices
Best sellers
Accessories and suggested reading
More information

Introduction

Insect nets are one of the most iconic tools of the entomologist’s kit bag. Around since at least the 1840s, the earliest forms would not have been dissimilar in design or use to those still widely used today. They are, most basically, a deep net bag made of material that is robust but gentle enough not to damage the captured insect, designed to be swept across grass or other vegetation or to catch flying insects as they are spotted. That said, in the last 180 or so years a number of different designs have arisen, making it hard for the aspiring entomologist to choose where to begin.

Sweep nets and butterfly nets – what’s the difference?

As the name may imply, the main difference between a sweep net and a butterfly net is the group that they are designed to catch, and by extension the way in which they are used. Sweep nets are designed to sample a wide range of insects, from flies to beetles, and are usually swept across the tops of vegetation such as long grass before inspection. Because they often come into contact with woody plants and the like, the frame is reinforced and the net material must be reasonably robust to prevent tearing. This has the drawback of making it a little heavy and coarse, and thereby potentially damaging to the wings of very delicate insects like butterflies.

Butterfly nets, on the other hand, have bags that are made from a much lighter, finer material that is less likely to damage delicate invertebrates. This makes them suitable for a few groups, including craneflies, but most notably Lepidoptera (butterflies and moths). Of course, the finer mesh is more delicate and likely to be torn by vegetation or powerful insects such as crickets and large beetles.

For the purpose of this buyer’s guide, the term ‘insect net’ will be used when referring to principles that are true of both butterfly and sweep nets.

Key features

Many entomologists relish the challenge of finding a remote, hitherto unexplored site, far away from the beaten path, with undisturbed habitats where anything might be hiding. The equipment we carry, however, can quickly mount up – an insect net, spare bags, pooter, beating tray, collecting tubes, notebooks, camera, not to mention lunch – and can weigh a lot. Many entomologists, therefore, begin with lightweight, compact gear that can be easily transported.

In our opinion, the qualities that determine a desirable insect net are weight and balance, as these will determine how comfortable the user is during long sampling sessions, and the aperture of the frame, as a larger opening means more air passes through, allowing larger sample sizes. But there is always a trade-off. Lighter frames are easier to carry but are less robust. Telescoping handles are portable but are generally made of metal and therefore heavier than a wooden alternative. Larger apertures, though better for sample size, are much more unwieldy than smaller counterparts. The trick to finding a net that really works for you is finding a balance between all these factors.

Frame shape

The ‘head’ of an insect net can be designed in a few different ways; different shapes can maximise the area sampled, and foldable and crushable designs can improve portability. Most entry level nets have a frame that is a simple loop of metal – this keeps them lightweight and cost effective, but limits the size that they can practically be.

Beyond entry level, sweep and insect nets tend to adopt more complex designs, but they are generally split into three categories: fixed, folding, and crushable frames. Fixed frames are built using the same principle as simpler nets, but often have a pentagonal shape. This increases the overall aperture size without making the net much bigger, allowing for larger samples. Folding frames are usually roughly triangular, and can be folded to make transport easy.

Finally, some butterfly nets are made with a crushable frame. The loop is made of a thin strip of metal that can be twisted around on itself, allowing the net to be stored in a small stuff bag. These are extremely portable, but over the course of use tend to become a bit warped. Crushable frames are generally only used for butterfly nets, as the metal is too lightweight to be robust enough for sweeping across vegetation.

Handle design

When it comes to nets, there are a few considerations to bear in mind. Early insect nets, for example, tended to have quite long handles. But is this necessary? Sweep netting in particular is often carried out at waist height, within easy reach as you walk through a meadow. Not only is it unnecessary in many cases, it is often counterproductive. The longer the handle, the less control you have over the path the end takes, after all. You can extend your arm to reach an insect that is further away, but it is much harder to accurately catch an insect that is too close for your net. A longer handle will also cause wrist strain more quickly, as the weight of the bag and frame cause the net to become poorly balanced. Most basic nets – particularly sweep nets – are therefore given a short handle to stay light, well balanced and portable.

That said, a longer handle can still be of use. You may want to sample from trees above head-height, for example, or target a group that is very visual and likely to flee before you get close enough for a short-handled net. One such group is Lepidoptera, and for this reason some butterfly enthusiasts prefer butterfly nets with a longer handle. You’ll see long-handled nets used for catching flying invertebrates referred to as ‘aerial nets’ in some literature.

A good option for either net type is a telescopic handle. This allows the user to decide what length is best for them, and affords some flexibility for activities, such as sweeping around trees. They tend to be heavier and less well balanced than non-telescopic alternatives though, and can be prone to breaking over longer periods of heavy use.

Entry-level choices:

Bestsellers:

Accessories and suggested reading:

More information:

The NHBS Guide to UK Butterfly Identification

The NHBS Guide to UK Bumblebee Identification

The NHBS Guide to UK Hoverflies: Part 1

The NHBS Guide to UK Hoverflies: Part 2

Equipment in Focus: Spring Frame Butterfly Net

Our full range of sweep nets can be found here. Our range of butterfly nets can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

2022 author interviews, book reviews and field tests

At NHBS we love nothing more than chatting with the authors of our favourite books about their lives, passions and publications. Interested in the authors we talked to in 2022? Here we’ve listed all of the books that we were fortunate to cover this year along with the titles that have been reviewed on our blog and the equipment that we tested in our regular ‘In the Field’ series.

Author Q&As

The Secret Perfume of Birds with Danielle Whittaker

“I started out with simple, clearly defined experiments to test the birds’ reaction to odours from other birds. Then moved on to working with chemists to analyze the information content present in the odours given off by birds. Little by little, the scientists who heard about work in this area started to pay attention…”

Otherlands with Thomas Halliday

“We mustn’t fall into the trap of thinking that humans can only be destructive, or that we are separate from the ecosystems we live in…This is the Earth we live in, and we are part of this world, but worlds can change in a moment.”

The Secret Life of the Adder with Nicholas Milton

“The book is my attempt to conserve the species using a 10-point adder action plan, and wake up the government, its nature conservation agencies, the media and the public to its plight before it is too late.”

Field Guide to Whales, Dolphins and Porpoises with Mark Carwardine

“It’s true to say that our knowledge of cetaceans has grown from virtually nothing to just a little bit – despite decades of wild whale research. They are incredibly difficult animals to study, because they spend most of their lives underwater, often live far out to sea and regularly travel vast distances.”

Why Sharks Matter with David Shiffman

“As a marine conservation biologist who studies sharks and how to protect them, I know that we need the public to not only no longer fear sharks, but to value the role they play in the ecosystem and to want them around.”

Wildlife Photography Fieldcraft with Susan Young

“Wildlife photography is hugely important as photographs can convey an emotion or fact better than words, and in particular can illustrate features or situations in a compelling, thought-provoking way, or simply attract by their beauty.”

The Fragmented World of the Mongoose Lemur with Michael Stephen Clark

“Perhaps, more alarmingly, the mongoose lemur has unwittingly become a prima-facie example of something disquieting; namely, a growing acceptance that nature will be allowed to persist only in places of our choosing.”

Book reviews

• Ever Green: Saving Big Forests to Save the Planet by John W. Reid and Thomas E. Lovejoy
Reviewed by Hana Ketley

• Birds, Beasts and Bedlam: Turning My Farm into an Ark for Lost Species by Derek Gow
Reviewed by Hana Ketley

• Abundance: Nature in Recovery by Karen Lloyd
Reviewed by Hana Ketley

• Fen, Bog & Swamp: A Short History of Peatland Destruction and its Role in the Climate Crisis by Annie Proulx
Reviewed by Luanne Wilkes

• Goshawk Summer: The Diary of an Extraordinary Season in the Forest by James Aldred
Reviewed by Hana Ketley

‘In the Field’ equipment tests

• Elekon Batlogger M2 – tested by Hana Ketley

• Kowa TSN-501 Spotting Scope – tested by Joshua Smith

• Elekon Batlogger S2 – tested by Alex Jackson

• Browning Spec Ops Elite HP5 & Browning Recon Force Elite HP5 – tested by Andrew Molin-Wilkinson

• Batbox Baton – tested by Antonia Peacock

• Kite APC Stabilised Binoculars – tested by Simon Palmer

NHBS Staff Picks 2022

Welcome to our annual round-up of the books and equipment we have enjoyed reading and using this year, all chosen by members of the NHBS team.

Kite APC Binoculars

My choice this year is a set of image stabilised binoculars from Kite. Having used them, it’s difficult to go back to a standard pair as they really make it very easy to focus on the wildlife and enjoy the behaviours seen instead of having to work at holding the binoculars steady. I spent many days out on boats scanning the sea for cetaceans and wished that I had had these for those trips. This is a great example of where technology is improving the ability to view wildlife accurately.
Simon – Technical Advisor

Otherlands: A World in the Making

Otherlands, the debut of Scottish palaeontologist Thomas Halliday, presents you with a series of past worlds. Though this is a non-fiction book thoroughly grounded in fact, it is the quality of the narrative that stands out. Beyond imaginative metaphors to describe extinct lifeforms, some of his reflections on deep time, taxonomy, and evolution are simply spine-tingling.
Leon – Catalogue Editor

Beak, Tooth and Claw: Why We Must Live with Predators

Beak, Tooth & Claw is my choice for this year’s staff picks as it’s an informative and thought-provoking analysis of our relationship with predators in the UK. This controversial and often highly charged debate is skillfully handled, with tales of Mary Colwell’s face to face encounters with predators as well as conversations with scientists who study them, wildlife lovers who want to protect them and the people who want to control them. I highly recommend this book for anyone who loves our predator species and wants to know more about one of the greatest challenges facing conservation today – how, when and where to control predators.
Hana – Marketing Manager

BeePot Mini Bee Hotel

The BeePot Bee Hotel has been a perfect addition to our little urban garden! The flowering plants and nesting place have encouraged solitary bees. Loss of suitable habitat is one of the main causes of pollinator decline and Green & Blue design many products that are centered around providing a home for wildlife. Not only is the BeePot beautifully and sustainably made, but it also helps support pollinators and makes a lovely gift for anyone who loves insects or gardening!
Alex – Wildlife Equipment Specialist

Dinosaur Monopoly

I bought this for my son as a present, he is obsessed with Monopoly and Dinosaurs. It is a great alternative to the traditional Monopoly and we loved the dinosaur pieces and the way you place tents and jeeps instead of houses and hotels.
Mark – Product & Purchasing Manager

Cornerstones: Wild Forces That Can Change Our World

As a biologist, I was already familiar with the theory of keystone species and the important role they have in shaping their local habitat and wider ecosystems. However, Benedict Macdonald really brings this to life in Cornerstones, offering us a beautifully descriptive view of how our country could look, should we choose to reintroduce those species that are so vital for its health and diversity. His writing perfectly blends scientific theory with visceral imagery to both inspire the mind and capture the imagination. This book left me feeling tentatively hopeful for what our small green island could once again become.
Luanne – Senior Editor

National Trust Apex Insect House

We love our National Trust Apex Insect House! About eight months ago, we installed it slap bang in the sunny middle of our orchard among trees and shrubs, and have since seen a great buzz around it. The variety of bamboo and wooden tubes in this house-shaped box, as well as the pine cones in its attic, create all kinds of dwelling for insects big and small. Here’s a tip: perseverance is key. Pop it in a nice, sheltered spot in the midst of greenery, then give it a little time and your residents will come.
Sabine – Customer Services Advisor

The Bumper Dinosaur Activity Book

This activity book was a huge hit with my son on his birthday. It’s bursting full of a range of activities that kept him occupied for ages. It’s great value for money and really good quality.
Jess – Purchasing Coordinator

In the Field – Kite APC Stabilised Binoculars

Kite Optics has always been a provider of high-quality optics, and we were thrilled to be given the opportunity to test a pair of stabilised binoculars from their range. The Kite APC Binoculars are purported to be ideal for watching birds and other wildlife. The big draw is the construction and ability to stabilise the image for more accurate observation.

Unpacking

Opening the box, you find a neck strap, carry case, instruction manual and the binoculars themselves. The first impression of the binoculars is that they look and feel ready for anything. The binoculars’ rubber casing provides an incredibly easy grip while giving you the feeling that they could withstand a little rugged handling.

To start with

Before using the binoculars for the first time you need to take the necessary first steps, as you would with any pair of binoculars. Adjust the dioptre ring to take care of any sight needs, alter the width of the eyepieces if needed (which was simple as they are linked together mechanically to create a single round image when looking through the eyepieces) and insert some batteries.

This is essential to get the full impact of what these binoculars have been designed to give you. It should be noted that the manufacturer clearly states that you should not use rechargeable batteries in this product. As with all electronics that may be put away for periods of time, you should also not leave the batteries in the binoculars while stored. Though you only need to use two batteries to run the stabilisation, there is a compartment for another two batteries, effectively giving you double the length of use while out in the field by swapping over tired batteries with the spares.

To access the battery compartments, you need to look at the front end of the binoculars. On either side of the lens, you will see recessed openings with plastic lids that have flip-out handles. It was a little fiddly at first to get hold of these, but once raised, opening the compartments was easy. When replacing the lids on the compartments you cannot over-tighten them. When screwing them shut, you will reach a positive stop.

How we tested them

Originally the plan was to take the binoculars out on a boat to view birds, seals and dolphins. However, in the timeframe, it wasn’t possible as the weather stopped the trips going out. An alternative was to take the binoculars up to a local reserve in Devon, Berry Head. An ideal location for watching the sea traffic, scanning the water for cetaceans and viewing the local guillemot colony that is nesting on the cliffs, along with other pelagic species.

The objective here was to see how well they handled the windy conditions and the distance to the subject both on the water, in the air and on the cliffs.

What we found.

With a relatively clear and bright day to start with and a medium wind, it was easy to break the test down into three areas based on subjects. Walking to the edge of the headland, I started scanning the sea. Plenty of gannets were around in a couple of sea locations and, while watching them, they started to dive. Initially, I left the stabilisation off just to get a good understanding of how they felt based on having to compensate for any shake with my hands. It quickly became clear that was quite tiring on the wrists and fingers while keeping the image as steady as possible. These binoculars can be quite heavy, though you should take into account that they contain stabilisation technology. Turning on the stabilisation, using the horizontal dial, and raising them to view, I was amazed at the change in the viewing experience. If you have ever used a more recent phone to shoot video, you will understand the concept of the gimbal mechanism that is deployed in the binoculars. The image became a lot smoother, even with irregular gusts of wind. Being able to track the birds not only in flight but as they dived made the experience much more informative. While watching the gannets, the extra magnification enabled me to view them angling their heads to the side to look down on the sea while searching for fish.

A fortunate moment occurred while the birds were diving. Something I had hoped to test on a boat occurred with the appearance of a cetacean. There are five different cetacean species off our coast in Brixham. The one that is most difficult to spot because of their surfacing behaviour is the harbour porpoise. Typically, you get a fleeting glance as they surface and then they are gone, reappearing after some minutes in a different location. Harbour porpoises are more solitary in their behaviour which can also add to the challenge. But with the sharpness, contrast and stability of the binoculars I could scan around the area the birds were feeding and note any surface disturbance, sometimes pre-empting the moment the porpoise surfaced. This coupled with the clarity of the optics gave me the chance to identify the species, recognising the small angular dorsal fin before it submerged again. It should be noted that there was a slight chromatic aberration around the edges of the image, but this was outweighed by the image quality where it counts.

The final test was to visit the opposite side of the reserve and use the vantage point across the cove from the nesting colony. This is some distance away on the cliffs, so again I decided to turn off the stabilisation and try to look at the guillemots before switching it on. To provide a comparison I shot a couple of videos through the eyepiece to show the stability of the binoculars before and after activating the stabilisation. It’s apparent that, if you were trying to assess colony size, you could quite easily carry out a census using these binoculars.

Opinion

These binoculars are built to withstand a good level of environmental bashing! With a waterproof construction (IPX7) and the rugged covering, I wasn’t afraid to use them out in the elements. The clarity of the view through the binoculars provided a level of confidence in judging the scene and the species within. Contrast and colour were well represented, which is incredibly important when bird watching as this will be the difference between identifying one species over another. The stabilisation was a real game changer, especially for identification purposes. I would feel good about using these on a boat to be able to survey cetaceans as when you halt the boat, the rocking on the sea would make this an ideal advantage for scanning the water. Good thought has been put into the design of the controls, with a large horizontal focusing wheel easily accessible and controlled using the tips of fingers. The stabilisation switch has been designed not to intrude on the use of the binoculars. Turning the stabilisation on lets you forget about the need to activate them. When you aren’t using the binoculars and they are in a vertical position, around your neck, for example, the stabilisation goes into sleep mode, improving the battery life. I would mention that they are quite heavy, without the stabilisation you could get fatigued trying to compensate to keep the image static, but with the stabilisation active, I know the stress on the hands would be less.

The Kite APC Binoculars can be found here. Our full range of Kite Optics binoculars can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

Book reviews recently featured in British Wildlife

British Wildlife has featured book reviews since the very first magazine back in 1989, and every review included in issues since 2018 is available to read on the British Wildlife website. These reviews provide in-depth critiques of the most important new titles in natural history publishing, from nature-writing bestsellers to technical identification handbooks. They are all authored by experts in relevant subjects, ensuring an honest and insightful appraisal of each book featured. Here is a list of the book reviews included in recent issues of British Wildlife, all with links to take you directly to the full review.

1. Silent Earth: Averting the Insect Apocalypse by Dave Goulson

“This reader found the book literate, persuasive, sympathetic, and based both on sound science and on a willingness to grapple with the realities. Goulson is the best ambassador for small life that we have.”

– Peter Marren, BW 33.3 December 2021. Read the review here

2. Slime: A Natural History by Susanne Wedlich

“To say that this is a fascinating story of a neglected subject does not really do justice to it. It is a well-researched and surprisingly genial encounter with this oozy, sticky world, written with a journalist’s sharp eye for a good story.”

– Peter Marren, BW 33.4 February 2022. Read the review here

3. Wild Fell: Fighting for Nature on a Lake District Farm by Lee Schofield

“Wild Fell is an exhilarating tour of Lee’s patch, with side excursions to Scotland and Norway and the Italian Alps for insights into the abundance which nature is bursting to give us. His writing, like the extinct, extant and envisioned landscapes he describes, is studded with moments of immense beauty – you can almost smell rock and moss and nectar, hear butterflies and grasshoppers flit and whirr, feel the shadow of a great wing passing between you and the sun.”

– Amy-Jane Beer, BW 33.4 February 2022. Read the review here

4. Peak District by Penny Anderson

“Readers of the book in the future may know, and in the penultimate sentence they are posed a question about the region: ‘Is it still highly distinctive and special?’ We cannot know their answer, but we can be sure that they will learn a great deal about the Peak District, and probably much about us and what we think about the area today. They will certainly have a good book in their hands.”

– Anthony Robinson, BW 33.5 April 2022. Read the review here

5. Field Handbook to British and Irish Dandelions by A. John Richards

“This new BSBI handbook is quite something. The modern miracle of colour printing allows every dandelion species to be reproduced in colour, and with up to five images per page, and at an affordable price.”

– Peter Marren, BW 33.5 April 2022. Read the review here

6. Wild Green Wonders: A Life in Nature by Patrick Barkham

“As British Wildlife readers know, Barkham dispenses with literary glitter to get to the heart of an issue, straightforwardly, sometimes understatedly, even modestly, but with an infectious charm and, I think, an innate generosity. I like his writing very much. It informs, it reads well, it takes you to unexpected places, and leaves you thinking afterwards. This is good journalism.”

– Peter Marren, BW 33.6 May 2022. Read the review here

7. Ants: The Ultimate Social Insects by Richard Jones

“Seasoned myrmecologists will probably want this review to answer one fundamental query: ‘I’ve got “Donisthorpe”, do I really need another book on ants?’ The answer is, in my opinion, a resounding ‘Yes!’”

– Adrian Knowles, BW 33.6 May 2022. Read the review here

8. After They’re Gone: Extinctions Past, Present and Future by Peter Marren

“After They’re Gone reminds us that environmental change is constant, and sometimes dramatic enough to wipe out millions of species.”

– Laurence Rose, BW 33.6 May 2022. Read the review here

9. Alchemilla: Lady’s-mantles of Britain and Ireland by Mark Lynes

“The author leaves us in no doubt that he is captivated by these plants, and he pays tribute to his predecessors, Max Walters and Margaret Bradshaw, who sorted out British Alchemilla taxa for the first time.”

– Peter Marren, BW 33.7 June 2022. Read the review here

10. British Craneflies by Alan Stubbs

“I would strongly recommend this book (and the others in the series) to anybody wishing to broaden his or her natural-history interests and keen to gain new and exciting perspectives on the sites, habitats and landscapes which they visit.”

– Steven Falk, BW 33.7 June 2022. Read the review here

11. Trees by Peter Thomas

“But it is an excellent and comprehensive book, and highly recommended for all those professionally involved in trees, concerned about trees, or wishing simply to understand more about trees. It will certainly keep me supplied with a sufficient understanding of them for the next 40 years.”

– Jonathan Spencer, BW 33.8 August 2022. Read the review here

12. Cornerstones: Wild Forces That Can Change Our World by Benedict Macdonald

“Benedict Macdonald, author of the eye-opening and influential Rebirding (see BW 31: 154), is passionate about restoring wildlife at scale by allowing natural processes a freer hand; first and foremost, then, his new book is aimed at building support for this approach to conservation.”

– Ian Carter, BW 33.8 August 2022. Read the review here

13. Birds and Us: A 12,000 Year History, from Cave Art to Conservation by Tim Birkhead

“This is modern science at its best and liveliest. It is also a gem of cultural history that could have been written only by someone who is personally immersed in the world of birds. You come away with a renewed sense that birds are wonderful, not least in the way they capture the human heart as well as the head.”

– Peter Marren, BW 33.8 August 2022. Read the review here

Since its launch in 1989, British Wildlife has established its position as the leading natural history magazine in the UK, providing essential reading for both enthusiasts and professional naturalists and wildlife conservationists. Individual back issues of the magazine are available to purchase through the NHBS website, while annual subscriptions start from just £40 – you can subscribe online or by phone (01803 467166). Visit www.britishwildlife.com for more information.

Equipment in Focus: Professional Hand Nets

Designed and manufactured by NHBS, the professional hand net is a
popular net choice for pond dipping and kick sampling. It is lightweight,
durable and practical, and used by universities and professional
institutions.

The professional hand net is available with a wide variety of mesh sizes and two net depths: standard and deep. The frame and net bags can be bought separately, allowing you to customise your hand net depending on your requirements. The standard outer frame width is 250mm and other 200mm and 300mm wide versions are available. The hand net can also be bought with two- or three-part collapsible frames to allow for ease of transport.

The sturdy metal frame is manufactured using marine-grade aluminium with an inner brass frame for net bag attachment, granting considerable resistance to wear and tear in the field.

Both aluminium and wooden handles are available, the benefits of the wooden handle being that it floats and is comfortable to use in colder conditions.

Net and mesh sizes

Mesh sizes range from 53µm up to 2mm. Net bags are also available in both standard (30cm) and deep (50cm) sizes.

For extra durability small mesh sizes are made from precision welded nylon material and the 1mm and 2mm mesh bags are made from woven polyester material.

The 1mm mesh is the most commonly used size for aquatic and kick sampling and the 2mm is more suited for amphibian surveys. Smaller precision meshes can be used for sampling smaller organisms such as plankton and chironomids.

Changing nets

Net bags can be attached and detached from the frame so that multiple nets can be used with a single frame. This can be handy for washing and replacing nets or when using different net meshes for sampling different organisms.

To demonstrate how to attach a net to the hand net frame, we have gone step by step through this process.

Steps

Begin by removing the inner brass frame from the outer aluminium frame by undoing the set screws from the outside of the frame using an allen key or use a spanner to loosen the nuts on the inside of the frame.

After removing the nuts, set screws and plastic clips, slide the net bag onto the now free inner brass frame using the slots in the orange section of the bag. Ensure the two upper slots are positioned just below the corners of the frame. It may be preferable to remove the plastic tube that connects the ends of the inner frame before feeding the frame into the net bag and reconnecting it.

The plastic clips can now be clipped onto the brass frame in the slots of the net bag. Ensure the flat side of the clip is facing the outside.

Place the clip flush against the hole in the outer metal frame and insert the set screw through the hole in the clip and the frame. The holes in the outer frame are off-centred, so ensure the holes are nearer to you when fixing the clips to allow the brass inner frame to sit flush with the edge of the outer frame.

The nut should then be loosely tightened onto the set screw using a spanner or by holding the nut in place and using an allen key on the set screw.

Loosely tighten the other three nuts and ensure the inner frame is positioned correctly before fully tightening. The clips holding the brass frame should now be firmly fixed against the outer frame.

With the net bag now securely attached to the metal frame, the professional hand net can now be used in the field.

Replacement and related equipment

Our nylon Professional Hand Net Cover will help to protect and improve the longevity of the net, and is ideal for safe storage and transportation.

Replacements are available for the hand net fixings and the inner frame.

Extension pieces are also available for use with both the two- and three-part collapsible frames to allow for net extension. Extra joining ferrules are available too.

NHBS supplies a variety of specimen pots for storage and viewing of collected samples.

The Professional Hand Net can be found here. Our full range of professional hand and kick nets can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.

Equipment in Focus: Spring Frame Butterfly Net

The Spring Frame Butterfly Net is a compact net for anyone interested in studying butterflies or moths. Designed and built by NHBS in our Devon workshop, the net comprises of a short-handled frame, net and cover.

Because of its lightweight metal frame, it can be folded down to fit into the supplied travel bag, neatly allowing it to be stowed away in a rucksack while out in the field. The main net is olive green and opens to a diameter of 30 cm. The short handle makes it easy to use at close quarters while trying to sample butterflies.

When you receive your net, you will find it collapsed down inside its carry bag along with instructions for folding it back into the bag after use. To help you do this, I’ve gone through the process of collapsing the net in the steps below.

Steps to collapse your net

Start with a hand holding the open net with the bag draped below – held in the right hand.

Grip the top of the frame with your thumb ready to push from the underside of the frame.

Keep your right thumb over the screw that attached the frame to the handle.

Use your left hand to twist the frame into a figure eight. Your left thumb should help because it will be pushing from underneath the frame.

Twist almost completely with your left hand over the top of your right hand with your index finger ready to clasp the folded rim. The frame should naturally want to fold over itself.

With the frame folded, use your left hand to wrap the net around the folded frame to keep it from springing open. The net can now be safely stored in the bag provided.

Other equipment

It is also worth considering stocking up on a few supplies if this is the first butterfly net you have bought.

A spare net: While the net is hardwearing, it is always worth considering keeping a spare net on hand. You can purchase additional nets on the NHBS website.

A hand lens: Ideal for examining any butterflies that you have sampled. NHBS carries a selection of hand magnifiers that you can keep in your pocket. This particular lens is a 15 x magnification which is extremely good for viewing the beauty and detail of the butterfly.

Collecting pots: NHBS carries a selection of different types of pots that can be used for transferring a butterfly from the net to something you can view the butterfly with.

In the event that you wish to extend the handle, additional lengths and styles are available. For example, you can extend the handle to either 50 cm or 90 cm with the fixed length long handles such as the Professional Butterfly Net: Handle, or for a more flexible approach you can choose the Telescopic Handle that extends the range of the net between 82 cm and 125 cm reach.

The Spring Frame Butterfly Net can be found here. Our full range of butterfly nets can be found here.

If you have any questions about our range or would like some advice on the right product for you then please contact us via email at customer.services@nhbs.com or phone on 01803 865913.