Looking for a bat box but don’t know which one to buy? This article is the third in a three part series designed to help you to make the right choice. Here you will find our top 10 boxes for incorporating into the masonry of a new build or development. The previous two posts feature the best boxes for trees and woodland and for walls and fences.
For each box listed you will also find helpful information such as its dimensions and weight and the box type (e.g. whether it is for summer use, for hibernation or for access into an existing roost space).
The Glossary below provides a guide to the key terms used in the descriptions.
• Woodcrete/WoodStone: A blend of wood, concrete and clay which is very durable. It is also breathable and helps to maintain a stable temperature inside the box. • Summer: Summer boxes are suitable for the warmer months but are less likely to be used over the winter. • Hibernation: Designed to be larger and better insulated, hibernation boxes will provide a safe and warm space for bats over the winter. • Maternity: Suitable for the formation of colonies and raising of young. • Access: Provides an entrance to an existing roof space such as a wall cavity or loft. • Crevice: Provides one or more narrow roost spaces. Species which prefer this type of box include common, soprano and Nathusius pipistrelle, Brandt’s and whiskered bats. • Cavity: Provides a more spacious roost space. Bats such as brown long-eared, Daubenton’s and Natterer’s bats prefer cavity boxes. • Large cavity: These boxes allow space for flight within the roost which is preferred by brown long-eared bats in particular.
This guide is designed to help you choose the best bird box, based on the species of bird that you are hoping to attract, or that you know can be found in your garden or other outdoor space. Species are organised alphabetically by common name, and for each one we have included information about the preferred type of box and siting location. You will also find a handy list of suitable boxes available from NHBS.
Barn Owl – Tyto alba
• Box type: Large box with entrance hole measuring at least 150 x 200mm. An exercise platform for young owls is also beneficial. • Siting guidelines: At least 4m high in an undisturbed area, away from roads. Boxes can be installed inside a barn if there is a clear flight path to the entrance. • Suitable boxes: Barn Owl Nest Box Eco Barn Owl Nest Box Triangular Barn Owl Nest Box Flat-Pack Barn Owl Nest Box
Blackbird – Turdus merula
• Box type: Medium box with platform-style front. • Siting Guidelines: At least 1.5m high and preferably within a bush or shrub. • Suitable boxes: Blackbird FSC Nest Box
Blue Tit – Cyanistes caerulus
• Box type – Small box with 25mm entrance hole. Will also use boxes with a larger hole if there isn’t competition from larger birds. • Siting guidelines – Trees and walls in gardens and woodland. 1-5m in height with a clear flight path. Avoid direct sunlight and busy areas of the garden.
• Box type: Small box with 28mm entrance hole. Will also use boxes with a larger hole if there isn’t competition from larger birds. • Siting guidelines: Trees and walls in garden or woodland. 1-5m in height with a clear flight path. There is some evidence to suggest that crested tits will only utilise boxes if they are filled with sawdust or wood shavings. • Suitable boxes: Vivara Pro Seville 28mm WoodStone Nest Box Small Bird Nest Box with 28mm Hole Apex Bird Box with 28mm Hole
• Box type: Medium box with 50mm entrance hole. • Siting guidelines: On a tree at a height of 3 – 5m. Boxes should be stuffed with soft material such as rotten wood or bark. • Suitable boxes: Woodpecker/Starling Nest Box Woodpecker Box
• Box type: Medium box with 60mm entrance hole. • Siting guidelines: On a tree at a height of 3 – 5m. Boxes should be filled with soft material such as rotten wood or bark. • Suitable boxes: Large Bird Nest Box
• Box type: Small box with 32mm entrance hole. • Siting guidelines: On trees or buildings at a height of 2m or above. House sparrows are colonial nesters so multiple boxes can be sited near to each other, or terraced boxes used.
• Box type: Large box with 150mm entrance hole. • Siting guidelines: As high as possible on a building or tree (minimum 3m). Jackdaws are colonial nesters so several boxes may be placed close together. • Suitable boxes: Tawny Owl, Jackdaw and Stock Dove Nest Box
Kestrel – Falco tinnunculus
• Box type: Large box with open front. • Siting guidelines: On a tree or building at a minimum height of 5m with a clear flight path to the entrance. • Suitable boxes: Kestrel Nest Box Kestrel Open Nest Box
Kingfisher – Alcedo atthis
• Box type: Tunnel with rear nesting chamber. • Siting guidelines: Buried in a vertical bank beside a slow-moving river or lake. Only the entrance should be visible and it should be at least one metre above the maximum water level. Filling the tunnel with sand will improve the chances of occupation. If possible, two tunnels should be placed together, at least 70cm apart. • Suitable boxes: Vivara Pro WoodStone Kingfisher Tunnel
Little Owl – Athene noctua
• Box type: Tubular box with a 70mm entrance hole and internal baffle to reduce light. • Siting guidelines: On a horizontal branch at a minimum height of 3m. • Suitable boxes: Little Owl Apex Nest Box
• Box type: Small box with 28mm entrance hole. • Siting guidelines: In a woodland, preferably overlooking a glade. Boxes should be installed at a height of 2-4m. If competition with earlier nesting tits is a problem, the holes of several boxes may be blocked up until the flycatchers arrive. • Suitable boxes: Vivara Pro Seville 28mm WoodStone Nest Box Small Bird Nest Box with 28mm Hole Apex Bird Box with 28mm Hole
• Box type: Tunnel, approximately 100mm in diameter • Siting guidelines: Tunnels should be filled with sand and buried into an artificial or natural sandbank. (Banks should be vertical or slightly overhanging). • Suitable boxes: Sand Martin Nest Box
Spotted flycatcher – Muscicapa striata
• Box type: Small box with open front. Front panel should be fairly low. • Siting guidelines: On a tree at a height of 2-4m and with a clear outlook (e.g. next to a lawn or woodland clearing). Alternatively on a building, nestled within ivy or other climbing plants. • Suitable boxes: Flatpack Bird Box – Open Front Robin Nest Box
Starling – Sturnus vulgaris
• Box type: Medium box with 45mm entrance hole. • Siting guidelines: On a tree or building at a minimum height of 2.5m. Starlings nest colonially so several boxes may be placed close together. • Suitable boxes: Woodpecker/Starling Nest Box Large Bird Nest Box Woodpecker Box
Stock Dove – Columba oenas
• Box type: Large box with 150mm entrance hole. • Siting guidelines: At least 3m high on a tree overlooking open fields or in an open barn. • Suitable boxes: Tawny Owl, Jackdaw and Stock Dove Nest Box
• Box type: Large box or chimney-style box with 150mm entrance hole.
• Siting guidelines: On a tree at a height of at least 2.5m with a clear flight path (particularly below the box).
• Suitable boxes: Tawny Owl Nest Box Tawny Owl, Jackdaw and Stock Dove Nest Box
Looking for a bat box but don’t know which one to buy? This article is the second in a three part series designed to help you to make the right choice.
For each box you will also find helpful information such as its dimensions and weight and the box type (e.g. whether it is for summer use, for hibernation or for access into an existing roost space).
The Glossary below provides a guide to the key terms used in the descriptions.
• Woodcrete/WoodStone: A blend of wood, concrete and clay which is very durable. It is also breathable and helps to maintain a stable temperature inside the box. • Summer: Summer boxes are suitable for the warmer months but are less likely to be used over the winter. • Hibernation: Designed to be larger and better insulated, hibernation boxes will provide a safe and warm space for bats over the winter. • Maternity: Suitable for the formation of colonies and raising of young. • Access: Provides an entrance to an existing roof space such as a wall cavity or loft. • Crevice: Provides one or more narrow roost spaces. Species which prefer this type of box include common, soprano and Nathusius pipistrelle, Brandt’s and whiskered bats. • Cavity: Provides a more spacious roost space. Bats such as brown long-eared, Daubenton’s and Natterer’s bats prefer cavity boxes. • Large cavity: These boxes allow space for flight within the roost which is preferred by brown long-eared bats in particular.
Here you will find our top 10 boxes for installing on a tree, in a garden, park or woodland. For each box you will also find helpful information such as its dimensions and weight and the box type (e.g. whether it is for summer use, for hibernation or for access into an existing roost space).
The Glossary below provides a guide to the key terms used in the descriptions.
• Woodcrete/WoodStone: A blend of wood, concrete and clay which is very durable. It is also breathable and helps to maintain a stable temperature inside the box. • Summer: Summer boxes are suitable for the warmer months but are less likely to be used over the winter. • Hibernation: Designed to be larger and better insulated, hibernation boxes will provide a safe and warm space for bats over the winter. • Maternity: Suitable for the formation of colonies and raising of young. • Access: Provides an entrance to an existing roof space such as a wall cavity or loft. • Crevice: Provides one or more narrow roost spaces. Species which prefer this type of box include common, soprano and Nathusius pipistrelle, Brandt’s and whiskered bats. • Cavity: Provides a more spacious roost space. Bats such as brown long-eared, Daubenton’s and Natterer’s bats prefer cavity boxes. • Large cavity: These boxes allow space for flight within the roost which is preferred by brown long-eared bats in particular.
In this brief guide, we will take a look at the main types and designs of moth traps. We will also address many of our most frequently asked questions, including why you will no longer find Mercury Vapour traps for sale at nhbs.com.
Skinner Moth Traps
Skinner Moth Traps will attract in excess of 500 moths on a very good night. The main advantages of Skinner Traps are price and portability, and they also let you access your catch whilst the trap is running. Skinner Traps collapse down quickly and easily when not in use, making them very easy to store and transport. They are available with actinic electrics and can be provided with either 240V (mains powered) or 12V (battery-powered) control panels. Lucent traps have a clever design with all components fitting neatly into a suitcase-style case.
Heath Moth Traps
The traditional Heath Moth Trap has a small actinic tube mounted vertically within three vanes that work together to attract and then deflect moths downwards into the holding chamber below. The traps are very lightweight and portable and are usually powered by a 12V battery, although mains powered traps are also available. Variations on the Heath Trap design include the “Plastic Bucket” model which allows the trap to be packed away and carried conveniently. Although catches from Heath Traps tend to be less than for Robinson and Skinner traps due to their lower wattage bulbs, their affordability and portability makes them a great choice for beginners or for use at remote sites.
Moth Collecting Tents
Moth Collecting Tents provide a unique alternative to traditional style moth traps and are ideal for educational use or group trapping events. They consist of a large white fabric structure that is fitted with a UV light source. Moths that are attracted by the light settle on the white fabric and can be observed or collected for study. As the collecting area is large and accessible, it is easy for many individuals to view the specimens at the same time. However, tents and sheets do not have the same retention rates as traditional box-type traps.
Moth Trapping FAQs
What kind of trap is best for garden or educational use?
The design of the Skinner Trap means that you can access the catch without having to switch off the bulb. This is particularly useful if you are looking at your catch over the course of the evening, rather than leaving the trap all night and returning to it in the morning. Skinner Traps also have the added benefit of collapsing down, making them easier to store.
Which trap is best for unattended trapping?
Some moths will escape from both Heath and Skinner trap designs, but Skinner Traps will attract a higher number of moths.
Which trap is most portable?
Heath Traps are the smallest and easiest to transport. They can also run off a 12V battery, allowing them to be used in remote sites. The Safari and Ranger Moth Traps are the smallest and lightest traps we sell, so are ideal for travelling.
Why can I no longer find Mercury Vapour traps on your website?
Mercury Vapour bulbs have recently been phased out as part of the Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive. Therefore, we have removed the traps from our range and are now focusing on actinic replacements. If you have a Mercury Vapour trap and would like to convert it to run with actinic electrics, please get in touch with us to have a chat about this.
What are actinic bulbs?
Actinic bulbs produce a small amount of UV light alongside the visible light which makes them more “attractive” to moths. They are not as bright as Mercury Vapour bulbs but because they don’t get as hot they are much safer to use, particularly for public and attended trapping events. They are also much less of a disturbance to neighbours if you are using the trap in your garden.
What is the difference in catch rates between the different traps?
Skinner Trap will attract the highest number of moths. Heath Traps will retain fewer moths but will still attract the same range of species. You can therefore obtain similar results trapping for a longer period or over several nights in the same area.