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Silent Summer: Editor Interview

Norman Maclean, editor of the best-selling Silent Summer, talks to NHBS about his career, early home-grown experiments with nature conservation and the state of wildlife policy in Britain today.

What first inspired you to pursue your field of study, and how old were you?

I have been interested in wildlife since my earliest years (aged 6), being brought up amongst fields and farms on the outskirts of Edinburgh. I was equally interested in insects, birds, mammals and fish. My parents were very tolerant of my rearing caterpillars, beetles, field mice and newts at home, mostly in my bedroom.

What were the books that inspired you when you were young?

The books of Richard and Cherry Kearton on Nature Photography in St. Kilda and elsewhere.

“Direct From Nature: The Photographic Work of Richard and Cherry Kearton” by John Bevis.

Later, “Silent Spring” by Rachel Carson.

What is your all time favourite natural history book?

Gilbert White’s “Natural History of Selborne”.

Who are your heroes in the field?

Gilbert White, Charles Darwin, Gregor Mendel, David Attenborough.

How do you split your time between the field and your writing projects?

You might call me a polymath. Academically, I am Professor in Molecular Genetics, but I have strong hobby interests in wildlife, trout fishing, playing tennis, gardening, antiquities and travel.

How has your core understanding of the subject changed since you began your research?

Enormously. As a geneticist I have lived through 50 years of amazing discovery and change. In terms of wildlife, ecology and conservation I have always been a keen field biologist and have taught on student field courses in Southern Spain for over 20 years. I have also been witness to the alarming decline in insects and some birds and mammals. I have studied wildlife in over 50 countries worldwide, seeing the destruction of so much natural habitat, yet savouring the riches of what is left.

What has been the highlight of your career so far?

My main research topic is gene regulation, and I and my research group have made some signicant discoveries in this area. Maybe my proudest moment in youth was discovering the first breeding of the Golden Plusia moth in Scotland when I was twelve – confirmed by letter from the Edinburgh Museum of Natural History.

What do you consider to be the most interesting current developments in your field of study?

In genetics the sequencing of the genomes of many species including humans, and in conservation biology the return to the UK of breeding cranes, red kites, otters, pine martens and others.

Which current issues in conservation do you feel have the biggest impact on your field, and how would like to see these dealt with?

The realization that you cannot effectively conserve wildlife in the UK by making fences round reserves and letting nature take its course. Ecologically speaking, almost all of Britain and Ireland has been moulded by human interference and activity so our future responsibility lies in the active management of wildlife, including judicious culling where necessary.

How would you like to see your field develop in the future?

With increased political prioritization of wildlife conservation and the preservation of what remains of the countryside. We must urgently control further human population increase and resist further demands on space, water supplies, energy supplies and contributions to global warming. We should all be prepared to reduce our own standards of living in order to improve those of the other species with which we share the planet.

Where will you be taking your next study trip?

Ethiopia.

What will your next book be?

I don’t know. Any ideas welcome!

If you could spend a month working in another field, which would you choose?

Ancient History.

How would you encourage young people who might be interested in pursuing a career in your field?

Get a degree in biology or genetics at a reputable university and learn your own fauna and flora.

Get your copy of Silent Summer today

Silent Summer: State of Wildlife

Over the past 20 years dramatic declines have taken place in UK insect populations. Eventually, such declines must have knock-on effects for other animals, especially high profile groups such as birds and mammals. This authoritative, yet accessible account details the current state of the wildlife in Britain and Ireland and offers an insight into the outlook for the future.

Written by a team of the country’s leading experts, it appraises the changes that have occurred in a wide range of wildlife species and their habitats and outlines urgent priorities for conservation. It includes chapters on each of the vertebrate and major invertebrate groups, with the insects covered in particular depth. Also considered are the factors that drive environmental change and the contribution at local and government level to national and international wildlife conservation. Essential reading for anyone who is interested in, and concerned about, UK wildlife.

With a foreword by Sir David Attenborough.

About Silent Summer: The State of Wildlife in Britain and Ireland

With a foreword by Sir David Attenborough. Buy Silent Summer now from NHBS

What the reviewers say about Silent Summer

Silent Summer is “like a Domesday Book of British Wildlife”, according to its editor, Professor Norman Maclean. In a foreword, Sir David Attenborough warns that “it is invaluable now and in the future it will be irreplaceable”. Will any real action be taken? Of course not. Silent Spring, Rachel Carson’s masterpiece, alerted the world in 1962 to the effects of agricultural pollutants such as DDT and in many ways launched today’s environmental movement. Silent Summer raises more complex and local questions. Terence Blacker, The Independent

Now, in an echo of that breakthrough publication, Sir David Attenborough has written the foreword to a new book, Silent Summer. Since Silent Spring we thought we had learnt a lot. But, as Sir David and 40 ecologists make clear, that is not so. Our wildlife is in retreat thanks to modern farming and the encroachment of urban life on the countryside. The Times

Published in 1962, Silent Spring helped launch the global environmental movement and, in Britain, prompted an eventual ban on pesticides such as DDT. Maclean believes, however, that such triumphs have done little to slow the destruction. “The evidence is that we could be in the middle of the next great extinction of wildlife, both globally and in Britain,” he said.

Butterflies are among the hardest hit of insect groups. Five species are extinct and, of the 59 that regularly breed in Britain, most have seen sharp declines in population. Jeremy Thomas, professor of ecology at Oxford University, who wrote Silent Summer’s chapter on butterflies, said populations were falling faster than almost any other group. The reason, he suggests, is that the caterpillars of many species need particular plant species to feed on — but these are often targeted by farmers as weeds. “Nearly every butterfly decline can be attributed to habitat loss or the degradation and increased isolation of surviving patches of habitat,” he said. Jonathan Leake in The Times

Perhaps what I’m excitedly photographing and noting today is the cliched ‘pale shadow’ of twenty years ago. I may be incredibly lucky in that I’m seeing something that in terms of biodiversity is equivalent to fifty or even a hundred years ago, but there’s no way of knowing. 10000birds.com

A new major environmental book, entitled Silent Summer: The State of Wildlife in Britain and Ireland, offers up disturbing facts and figures about the human impact on nature in the British Isles. Celebrated naturalist, broadcaster and national treasure Sir David Attenborough has penned the forward to the book, a collaborative effort by 40 UK ecologists, which outlines the impacts of pesticides, population growth and intensive farming on British and Irish flora and fauna. Greenfudge.com

Prof Maclean argues that “the evidence is that we could be in the middle of the next great extinction of wildlife, both globally and in Britain.” Nick Collins, The Telegraph

Buy Silent Summer now from NHBS

Contents of Silent Summer

List of contributors; Foreword David Attenborough; Preface; Acknowledgements; List of abbreviations;
1. Introduction Norman Maclean; Part I. Factors Driving Changes in Wildlife: 2. Climate change T. H. Sparks, C. D. Preston and D. B. Roy; 3. Agriculture, woodland and semi-natural habitats Ken Norris; 4. Vertebrate animal introductions Christopher Lever; 5. Plant introductions Andrew Lack; 6. Urbanisation and development Kevin J. Gaston and Karl L. Evans; 7. The great game: the interaction of field sports and conservation in Britain from the 1950s to 2008 Robin Sharp; 8. Going fishing: recent trends in recreational angling Robin Sharp and Norman Maclean; 9. Impacts of hormone disrupting chemicals on wildlife C. R. Tyler and R. M. Goodhead; 10. Water pollution: other aspects Michael Hughes and Carl Sayer; 11. 25 key questions in ecology Norman Maclean; Part II. Conservation in Action: 12. Conservation in action in Britain and Ireland Andy Clements; 13. Wildlife in the UK Overseas Territories Mike Pienkowski; 14. UK involvement in conservation outside UK territory N. Leader-Williams and A. M. Rosser; Part III. The Case Histories: 15. Mammals in the 20th century D. W. Yalden; 16. Bats Karen A. Haysom, Gareth Jones, Dan Merrett and Paul A. Racey; 17. State of bird populations in Britain and Ireland Robert A. Robinson; 18. The conservation of the Grey Partridge N. W. Sotherton, N. J. Aebischer and J. A. Ewald; 19. Reptiles Chris P. Gleed-Owen; 20. Amphibians Tim Halliday; 21. Freshwater fishes: a declining resource Peter S. Maitland and John F. Craig; 22. Riverflies Cyril Bennett and Warren Gilchrist; 23. Bumblebees Dave Goulson; 24. Butterflies J. A. Thomas; 25. Moths Richard Fox, Kelvin F. Conrad, Mark S. Parsons, Martin S. Warren and Ian P. Woiwod; 26. Dragonflies (Odonata) in Britain and Ireland Peter Mill, Steve Brooks and Adrian Parr; 27. Flies, beetles and bees, wasps and ants (Diptera, Coleoptera, and Aculeate Hymenoptera) Alan Stubbs; 28. Hemiptera Alan J. A. Stewart and Peter Kirby; 29. Grasshoppers, crickets and allied insects Judith Marshall; 30. Aerial insect biomass: trends from long-term monitoring Richard Harrington, Chris R. Shortall and Ian P. Woiwod; 31. Invertebrates Richard Chadd and Brian Eversham; 32. Land and freshwater molluscs Ian J. Killeen; 33. The sea shore S. J. Hawkins, H. E. Sugden, P. S. Moschella, N. Mieszkowska, R. C. Thompson and M. T. Burrows; 34. The offshore waters John Baxter; 35. Plants Andrew Lack; 36. Conclusion: what is the likely future for the wildlife in Britain and Ireland? Norman Maclean; Glossary; Index.

Bio of Norman Maclean

Norman Maclean is Emeritus Professor of Genetics at Southampton University and has a strong interest in wildlife, conservation and river management. He has helped to run student field courses for more than 20 years and has authored and edited more than a dozen textbooks and reference books in Genetics and Cell Biology. He is an Elected Fellow of the Linnaean Society and the Institute of Biology.

Buy Silent Summer now from NHBS

A Brief History of NHBS

Butterflies of Britain & Ireland

The Butterflies of Britain & Ireland is an authoritative account of our butterflies, accessibly written and beautifully illustrated. First published in 1991, it sold out in the early 1990s and was never reprinted. This completely revised edition includes substantially revised species accounts, all including the latest information and research. Also contains nearly 100 new artworks painted by Richard Lewington.

Provides comprehensive coverage of all the resident and migratory butterflies found in Great Britain and Ireland, including the latest information on newly discovered species such as Real’s Wood White and the Geranium Bronze.

More than 900 `exquisitely detailed’ colour artworks by Richard Lewington, Europe’s leading butterfly artist, providing the most complete collection of images of British butterflies.
The `beautifully rounded and balanced essays’ on each species include fascinating details of life history and ecology, information on identification, distribution, conservation status and folklore.
Includes a general introduction, further reading and index.
Information for each species includes, life cycle and up-to-date map of distribution – based on latest data from Butterfly Conservation.
A donation will be made to Butterfly Conservation for each copy sold.

Tigers by Andy Rouse

NHBS is just about to receive stock of this stunning new book about tigers by acclaimed wildlife photographer Andy Rouse. Andy is giving 25% of the profits from this book to tiger conservation projects.

Guide to Robinson Moth Traps

Robinson Moth Traps are the preferred choice amongst many serious entomologists because they offer the highest attraction and retention rates. There are various models available and NHBS offers a comprehensive range – we’ve put together this guide to Robinson Moth Traps to help you choose the right model. We have also included our top tips to improve the efficiency of your Robinson Trap in use.

Similarities

NHBS sells a variety of Robinson moth trap types, varying in both price and specifications. However, before we get into the differences, let’s consider their similarities. All our Robinson traps are;

Supplied fully wired so you can start using them straight away
Fitted with an IP56 waterproof control box housing the appropriate chokes and capacitors
Supplied with a bulb (either mercury vapour (MV) or actinic depending on the trap chosen)
Supplied with 240V electrics (including 3-pin plug) or 12V battery powered electrics
Fitted with a rain guard for the mercury vapour bulb (MV Robinsons only)
Fitted with flight interception baffles
Complete with drainage hole in centre of base (holes are either too small to allow moths to escape or fitted with gauze)

Differences

Before we analyse each trap individually, remember that any one of these traps will attract moths in large numbers. Robinson moth traps fitted with mercury vapour bulbs are the most successful traps for attracting and retaining moths. On a very good night you can expect 500 – 1000 moths. So, what are the types of Robinson we offer?

NHBS Robinson moth trap: we’ve specially designed this trap to make it as cheap as possible for those on a budget or those new to mothing. Robinson moth traps aren’t cheap and we’ve done all we can to reduce the price. That said, the electrics are still the same as the other Robinson moth traps and it will still attract large numbers of moths.

Standard Robinson moth trap: this long-term favourite is our most popular design and combines a superb design with affordability. It is larger and more robust than the NHBS Robinson but lacks one or two features of the Heavy Duty Robinson. This trap is an excellent choice for both professionals and enthusiasts.

Heavy Duty Robinson moth trap: this trap is robust and durable, making it ideal for prolonged use. It combines many great features of a Robinson trap to provide a durable design.

60W Actinic Robinson moth trap: this Robinson moth trap has actinic electrics rather than mercury vapour electrics. It also has the same components and dimensions as the Standard Robinson moth trap.

Midi Robinson moth trap: the Midi Robinson moth trap is the latest edition to the NHBS range of Robinson moth traps. It has the smallest dimensions of any Robinson moth trap and is available in either a Mercury Vapour or Actinic version.

Actinic vs Mercury Vapour

When choosing between mercury vapour and actinic electrics, there are several general rules to consider. Mercury vapour bulbs will attract the largest amount of moths. However, they are also quite bright. If using the trap in a small back garden, you may want to opt for actinic electrics. These produce less light and so are less likely to annoy the neighbours. Mercury vapour bulbs run hot and so need to be protected from the rain to avoid shattering. All our mercury vapour Robinson traps come with a rain guard as standard. Actinic bulbs do not run hot and so do not need protecting from the rain.

If you decide on actinic electrics, then you can choose between the 60W Actinic Robinson and the Actinic Midi Robinson. The 60W Actinic Robinson is essentially the same trap as our Standard MV Robinson moth trap, but has 2 x 30W actinic bulbs that run off a mains supply or generator. The Actinic Midi Robinson is smaller than the 60W Actinic Robinson. The Midi has 1 x 15W actinic bulb that is designed to run off a 12V battery. Thus it is much more portable as it does not have to be plugged into mains electrics, but won’t attract as many moths as it’s not as powerful.

If It’s Mercury Vapour You Want…!

If you decide on a Mercury Vapour Robinson moth trap, then NHBS has a range of options to cater for various situations and budgets.

Small is Beautiful

For those wanting the cheapest mercury vapour Robinson trap available, the MV Midi Robinson is the trap for you. But just because it is the cheapest, it doesn’t mean the quality of the trap has been compromised. Essentially it is the same trap as our best seller, the Standard Robinson moth trap, but with a few alterations to reduce the price. Firstly, it’s smaller with a base diameter of 45cm compared to the 60cm base of the Standard Robinson trap. This makes it more portable but means there’s less space for moths – a potential consideration if trapping on the busiest of nights. The Midi Robinson has an 80W MV bulb, as opposed to the other MV Robinson traps that all run 125W MV bulbs. This means the Midi is less powerful and so may attract fewer moths. However, the build quality and components used are identical to those used on the Standard Robinson moth trap, so the Midi will still provide a durable and effective method of trapping moths.

125W MV Robinson Moth Traps – One of Three to Choose!

If you’ve decided against an actinic Robinson, and consider the Midi Robinson to be too small, or just simply want the most powerful Robinson trap available, then it’s a 125W MV Robinson you’ll be wanting! There are three 125W MV Robinson traps to choose between; NHBS MV Robinson, Standard MV Robinson, and the Heavy Duty Robinson.

When choosing between these three types of trap, you may want to consider the following;

Trap Electrics

All three trap designs fundamentally have the same 240V electrics with all the necessary chokes, capacitors, etc included. As they all run a 125W mercury vapour bulb, there won’t be any noticeable differences in light intensity or attraction rates of moths. Where they do differ is in the cable lengths. The NHBS Robinson has a short input cable (that runs from the mains plug to the waterproof control box) of approximately 1.5 metres. The Standard Robinson has approximately 5 metres of input cable, whilst the Heavy Duty Robinson has 15 metres of input cable. So, you’ll probably need an extension cable for use with the NHBS Robinson. The output cable (that runs from the control box to the bulb) is short for all three designs (1 – 2 metres).

Base

The bases of all three traps are made of black plastic and have drainage holes. The NHBS Robinson has a smaller diameter base (approx. 50 cm) compared to the other two designs (approx. 60 cm). Therefore, the NHBS Robinson has a smaller area for moth retention. The base of the Heavy Duty Robinson is particularly durable and has a drainage hole fitted with gauze. The Standard Robinson also has a drainage hole with gauze covering, whilst the NHBS Robinson has small holes drilled into the base to provide drainage. All of the bases can be easily repaired in the event of minor cracks and breakages.

Collar

The collar of the NHBS Robinson is made of 3 mm black plastic and cannot be removed from the base. Therefore, you won’t be able to see into the trap whilst it’s on, but the thick plastic will last for many years. The collar of the Standard Robinson is made of 3 mm thick clear plastic and can be removed from the base. You’ll be able to see inside whilst the trap is on. The collar of the Heavy Duty Robinson is also made of 3 mm thick clear plastic and is removable from the base. As you can remove the collars on the Standard and Heavy Duty Robinson, you can stack the bases into each other (for bases of the same model) for storage. The collar of the NHBS Robinson is not removable so traps cannot be stacked inside each other. The collars on all three traps are made of UV stable plastic and will be more resistant to brittleness; a common complaint for less robust collar designs.

Cone and Rain Guard

All three trap designs have a white cone and rain guard. The NHBS and Heavy Duty Robinson traps have similar designs of cone with three flight interception baffles and a sturdy rain guard design which screws tight for rigidity. The Standard Robinson has four flight interception baffles that are slightly more prominent in profile. The rain guard, whilst having four supports, does not screw down for security. Therefore, in high winds it may be prone to being blown over; although if high winds are predicted it’s unlikely you’ll be using the trap anyway!

If you’ve got any other questions regarding the three trap types then please contact customer services.

Hints and Tips

Regardless of the Robinson design, there are several ways to improve the efficiency of your Robinson moth trap.

The majority of adult moths are nectar feeders, so site your trap in areas full of native plants. Make your garden into a wildlife haven and you’ll hopefully see a big increase in moth numbers. You may have to accept increased damage to your plants as you should avoid the use of pesticides.
Improve the attractiveness of your garden by using plants that release their strongest scent during the evening, such as nicotinia and night-scented stock or honeysuckle.
Cold, clear nights (especially following a period of milder weather) will reduce the numbers of moths available for trapping. Cloudy, warm nights are best, especially as it tends to be darker on cloudy nights and so less light pollution will be competing with the trap light.
Avoid trapping on bright nights with a full moon or near other sources of light, e.g. street lamps.
Avoid windy or wet nights as moths are less inclined to fly and to avoid damage to the trap.
If air masses are moving up from the South, southern coastal areas of the UK may see increased numbers of migrants being blown over from the continent.
Peak mothing months are July and August. However, moths may be seen in substantial numbers at other times of the year, especially in rural areas.

Remember to think about the moths too! Avoid trapping on consecutive nights in small gardens as you may be trapping the same moths, thus preventing them from feeding and mating. You can reduce the chance of re-trapping the same moths by releasing moths at least 50 metres from the trap site. Ideally release the moths into dense vegetation so that they have a daytime refuge from predators. If leaving the trap overnight, try and check it early in the morning. Occasionally you may find wasps and hornets in the trap. Wasps may kill moths and hornets will eat them, but both wasps and hornets are docile in the morning so can be removed with minimal effort. Avoid trapping near known hornets nests. If you can’t inspect your trap until later in the day, ensure it is in a shady area and place a damp cloth or sponge in the bottom of the trap to reduce the chances of dehydration.

Trap Components

We also provide trap electrics, bulbs and individual trap component separately. Not all components are listed on the website, so if you can’t find what you’re looking for then get in touch with customer services. Similarly, if you have any other questions then please get in touch.

New Naturalist Bird Migration by Ian Newton – Save £11.00

Ian Newton is the author of numerous ornithological books and scientific papers including the famous New Naturalist Finches (Vol. 55). His recent best-selling titles include: The Migration Ecology of Birds, Population Limitation in Birds and Speciation and Biogeography of Birds. Now Ian returns to Collins New Naturalist series with Volume 113 Bird Migration – this will be published in early April.

About Ian Newton

About Bird Migration, Vol 113 in the Collins New Naturalist series

Collins New Naturalist Vol. 113 Bird Migration by Ian Newton The phenomenon of bird migration has fascinated people from time immemorial. The arrivals and departures of different species marked the seasons, heralding spring and autumn, and providing a reliable calendar long before anything better became available. Migration is shown by many kinds of animals, including butterflies and other insects, mammals, marine turtles and fish, but in none is it as extensively developed as in birds. The collective travel routes of birds span almost the entire globe, with some extreme return journeys covering more than 30,000 km. As a result of migration, bird distributions are continually changing – in regular seasonal patterns, and on local, regional or global scales. Migration has repeatedly prompted familiar questions, such as where birds go or come from, why do they do it, how do they know when and where to travel, and how do they find their way?

In this seminal new book, Ian Newton sets out to answer these – and other – questions. The book is divided into four main sections: the first is introductory, describing the different types of bird movements, methods of study, and the main migration patterns seen around the British Isles; the second part is concerned mainly with the process of migration – with timing, energy needs, weather effects and navigation; the third with evolution and change in migratory behaviour; and the fourth with the geographical and ecological aspects of bird movements.

Pre-order to get your copy first and save £11.00

Other key books on Bird Migration

No Way Home: The Decline of the World’s Great Animal Migrations

How Birds Migrate

Wings and Rings: A History of Bird Migration Studies

Atlas of Bird Migration

Celebrating 60 years and Counting of the Longworth Mammal Trap

The Longworth mammal trap was invented in 1949 and is celebrating over 60 years of service. As the most widely used and respected small mammal trap in use in Europe, it is familiar to many of us. But how well do you actually know it? Read on for some facts on the Longworth trap you may or may not know!

Why is it called the Longworth trap?

Unfortunately it’s not because Mr Longworth invented it. The Longworth trap was invented by Chitty & Kempson (1949). At the time they were working at the Department for Zoological Field Studies at the University of Oxford. They arranged commercial production through another Oxford-based organisation, the Longworth Scientific Instrument Co. Ltd, and the trap took the same name. The Longworth Scientific Instrument Co. was founded in 1943 by another group of Oxford academics. Personnel from the Department of Anaesthetics formed the company to manufacture technical medical equipment such as the Macintosh Laryngoscope. As the Longworth trap required similar manufacturing processes, it made sense for the Longworth Co. to manufacture Chitty & Kempson’s trap. Due to its strong geographical links, you may also have heard the Longworth trap called the Oxford trap, although a prerequisite for this is a long memory, even longer beard and elbow patches!

Are Longworth traps good for sampling shrews?

Traditionally there has been a belief that pitfalls rather than small mammal traps such as the Longworth should be used for catching small shrews (e.g. Williams & Braun, 1983). However, recent evidence may suggest that this is not always the case (e.g. Anthony et al., 2005). Every trap design will introduce some type of bias, so the key is to ensure as fair a test as possible. Comparing two datasets obtained using different trap designs will obviously introduce error. If you are particularly concerned about small shrews then consider using Longworth traps in tandem with pitfall traps (using drift fences with the pitfalls will generally increase success). Remember that vegetation type and even trap age may possibly influence trap success. The fact that Longworth traps are incredibly durable with many still in use after 30 years of service makes them ideal for repeat long term surveys. And remember, you won’t catch any small shrews with the Longworth trap with optional shrew escape hole!

How do I bait the trap?

The bait smell will initially attract the mammal to the trap so try to handle the bait as little as possible, especially if you’ve got smelly (perfumed or otherwise!) hands. Shrews and other insectivorous mammals will need invertebrates; try blowfly pupae available from fishing tackle shops. Otherwise seeds, raisins, barley, oats or even chocolate will do. By using fruit or vegetables (apples and carrot can work well), you can also provide an essential source of water for the trapped mammal. The type of bait used is probably of little importance in trap success (Sealander & James, 1958), and by using the same bait in all traps the effect of bait type will be nullified.

Acclimatising mammals to the trap is particularly important, especially when sampling more timid species. The Longworth is ideal for this as it can be set not to trigger when an animal enters. Bait the trap in the ‘non-trigger’ setting and leave for several days for this acclimatisation to occur. But remember, by doing this you may attract other individuals from surrounding areas and inflate population density estimates.

Also remember to provide some bedding in the trap; hay or shredded paper work best. If using leaves (or indeed anything else), make sure they are dry as damp nest material can chill the animal. Change the bedding after every capture to ensure a dry clean trap for the next unlucky victim.

Where should I place the trap?

Place the trap in a sheltered secluded location, ideally in thick vegetation, but make sure you can find it again. A bright marker on the trap can aid location of it but can also make it more conspicuous to the public. Place the leading edge of the trap flush with the ground to encourage animals to enter. Ensure the nesting box is at a slight angle to encourage urine to drain away. When placing the trap, look out for signs of mammal activity (droppings, runs through vegetation, chewed food, etc). These are unlikely to be in the middle of clearings as small mammals tend to prefer margins, hedges, etc. Usually multiple traps will be deployed. By deploying in a grid formation you will get a better idea of population density, whilst straight line deployment is useful for covering a cross section of habitats or following linear features (hedgerows, boundaries, etc).

Is there a cheaper alternative?

Longworth traps are expensive and the initial cost of buying the traps can be high. However, it is worth remembering than Longworth traps will last decades if looked after properly so the cost of the trap over its lifetime is actually quite cheap. Nevertheless, a cheap alternative is the Mammal Trip-Trap. This is a simpler trap to the Longworth and designed for occasional use. It is made from robust plastic rather than the Longworth’s aluminium, but also features a trapping tunnel and nest box. However, as woodmice have on occasion been known to chew through the aluminium on a Longworth trap, the plastic trip-trap may be severely damaged unless checked very frequently.

Whichever trap you use, remember to check them at least every 12 hours (and even less for shrews as they are particularly prone to mortality in traps). You also need a licence to trap shrews. If you have any other queries on the Longworth trap or Trip-Trap then please get in touch.

References

Anthony NM et al. (2005) Comparative effectiveness of Longworth and Sherman live traps. Wildlife Society Bulletin 33: 1018-1026
Chitty D & Kempson (1949) Prebaiting small mammals and a new design of live trap. Ecology 30: 536-542
Sealander JA & James D (1958) Relative efficiency of different small mammal traps. Journal of Mammalogy 39: 215-223
Whittaker JC & Feldhammer (2000) Effectiveness of three types of live trap for Blarina (Insectivora: Soricidiae) and description of new trap design. Mammalia 64: 118-124
Williams DF & Braun SE (1983) Comparison of pitfall and conventional traps for sampling small mammal populations. Journal of Wildlife Management 47: 841-845

Five FAQs About Attracting Birds to Your Nest Box

We’ve put together some answers to the most Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about bird nest boxes – follow this basic advice to ensure birds take up residence in your nest boxes. You can browse the full range of nest boxes we sell online and if you’re keen to find out more – check out the BTO Nestbox Guide, it’s packed with essential information.

When is the best time to put up nest boxes?

Traditionally people have put up nest boxes in the early Spring so they are ready for the breeding season. However, there really is no ‘best’ time to put up nest boxes. By putting up nest boxes in the Autumn you can provide much needed winter refuges for roosting birds and increase the chance of them staying and nesting. However, any box erected before the end of February stands a good chance of being occupied. Even after February there is still a chance of occupancy. Tits have been known to move in during April and house martins as late as July. Whatever the time of year the box is erected, it is likely to be used for roosting so shouldn’t stay unoccupied for long. Therefore, put your nestbox up as soon as it is available rather than leaving it in the shed!

Where should I put my nest box?

When it comes to nest boxes, the ‘where’ is much more important than the ‘when’. Nest boxes must provide a safe comfortable environment, free from predators and the worst of the weather. This may be difficult to achieve; a safe location out of reach of predators may also be exposed to the weather, so have a good think before you start bashing nails in.

Nest boxes can be fixed to walls, trees or buildings. Fixing to artificial surfaces means the growth of the tree does not have to be considered (Schwegler nest boxes last at least 20-25 years; a significant amount of time in the life of a small tree). If you’re planning any building work, remember that some Schwegler bird and bat boxes can also be built directly into walls and roofs. Nest boxes placed on poles can be exposed to the weather. Locating boxes out of reach of predators is virtually impossible (weasels can climb almost anything), but you can make it harder for the predator. Boxes in gardens must be located where cats cannot get to them, making walls a better option than trees. Prickly or thorny bushes can also help to deter unwanted visitors. Some nest boxes also have anti-predator designs (e.g. Schwegler’s Tree Creeper nest box). Avoid nest boxes that have a combined bird feeder, and even avoid placing your nest box too close to a feeder. Visitors to the feeder will disturb the nesting birds and the feeder will attract unwanted attention from predators.

For many species the height of the box is not crucial. However, by placing it at least several metres off the ground you can help prevent predators and human interference. The direction of the entrance hole is not important; it is far better to ensure a clear flight path to the box. Crucially, the box should be sheltered from the prevailing wind, rain and strong sunlight, so in most UK gardens aim for an aspect of northerly, easterly or south-easterly. If possible, position the box with a slight downward angle to provide further protection from the rain. Wherever you position the box, try to ensure that you can still get access to it for maintenance. And finally, if possible, try to put it somewhere where you can see it so as to maximise your enjoyment of watching wild birds in your garden.

Is there anything else I can do to deter predators?

As already mentioned, location is the most important factor when trying to deter predators. Whilst some mammals can climb walls, a blank wall is as safe a place as any. Ensure that the box cannot be reached by a single jump from a nearby branch or the ground. Box design can also help deter predators. An entrance hole reinforced with a metal plate will prevent grey squirrels and some avian predators from enlarging the hole and gaining access to the nest. Schwegler’s wood-concrete boxes are too hard for any predator to break through. However, you can also reinforce a nest box yourself with metal and plastic sheeting, or even prickly twigs. Not only can these prevent predators from getting to or finding purchase on the nest box, but they can also help insulate the box from the weather. Deep boxes may prevent predators reaching in and grabbing nest occupants, although some tits have been known to fill up deep boxes with copious quantities of nesting material. An overhanging roof will also help prevent predators reaching in. If using open-fronted nest boxes, a balloon of chicken wire over the entrance can prevent some predators gaining access, although weasels will still be able to slip through. If you live in an urban area, cats are likely to be the most common predator. Gardeners have long since used various methods to exclude these unwanted visitors, such as pellets, electronic scarers and even lion dung (available from your nearest obliging zoo), all with varying degrees of success, so you may want to do some experimenting.

How do I manage the nest box?

A well-designed nest box will only need one annual clean in the Autumn. Do not clean out nest boxes before 1st August as it is against the law and boxes may still be occupied. Wait until Autumn and then remove the contents of the box, checking first that the box is definitely unoccupied. Scatter the contents of the box on the ground some way from the box to help prevent parasites re-infesting the nest box. Use a small brush or scraper to remove debris from the corners. Do not wait until the winter to clean out nest boxes as birds may already be roosting in them.

How many nest boxes do I need?

The exact amount of boxes required will depend on the species and the surrounding habitat. As a very general rule of thumb, start with ten assorted small boxes per hectare (ensure uniform spacing between boxes). Keep adding several more boxes each season until some remain unused and hopefully you’ll hit on the correct density of boxes. However, even if you only have space for one box, remember that one box is better than no box (providing it’s suitably located). Many UK bird populations have plummeted to worryingly low levels and they need all the additional nesting habitat they can get.

Further information about individual nest boxes, including advice on positioning, can be found alongside each nestbox in our range. If you have any other questions then please get in touch with customer services.

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