Category: How to Guides

When it comes to investigating the wonderful world of butterflies the first thing you’ll need is a butterfly net.  When choosing a net, the most important thing is being able to use it!  Practice makes perfect when it comes to safely and successfully netting butterflies.  Not only do you want to avoid injuring yourself and others around you, but it is very important not to injure the butterfly.  Butterfly wings are delicate and cannot heal themselves if they are damaged.  Similarly, squashing the butterfly with the edge of your net is equally damaging!

There are two things you can do to avoid hurting butterflies.  Firstly, choose a net with a lightweight mesh material which will not damage the wings.  All the butterfly nets available at NHBS feature such a lightweight mesh.  Secondly, practise your swing on a small object; place a stone on the ground and practice swinging the net over the stone, ensuring the stone ends up in the centre of the net.  Once you’re happy with your aim, then you’re ready to go.  Ideally your net should be suited to your size.  A large net in the hands of a small person may be too difficult to control.  The handle length should be long enough for you to net the butterfly without spooking it, but not too long to make the net too difficult to control.  Some nets come with adjustable handles, allowing you to customise your net to your preference.

For those wanting to get closer to butterflies, NHBS has two butterfly kits; a Starter and Advanced kit.  The Starter kit will allow you to net butterflies, examine them in a magnifying pot and use the beautifully illustrated guide to identify common species.  The Advanced Kit features our most popular net, the crushable butterfly net.  This folds up to fit in your pocket – a handy feature especially when travelling.  The free standing bug cage will allow you to study individuals for greater lengths of time, whilst minimising stress to the butterfly.  If you plan to keep the butterflies in the cage for a significant amount of time, ensure you provide some vegetation for sustenance and shelter.  A supply of fresh-cut flowers in water or a dish containing a sponge filled with diluted honey solution work well.  You can even use fruit juice or fresh- cut melon, although it must be fresh so should be replaced each day.

Remember to release all individuals back into the wild.  Many butterfly species are under threat and some are very rare.  We can all enjoy butterflies without impacting on wild populations by this approach.

NHBS stocks a complete range of beginners, professional, economy, deluxe, small, large and folding butterfly nets.

Starter Butterfly Kit

Advanced Butterfly Kit

1. Record bird and wildlife sounds in the field

The RememBird II allows you to record bird sound in the field. It fits snugly below your roof prism binoculars and is easily operated by a simple joystick button contol. The microphone works in a continuous loop recording mode so that your RememBird is ‘always listening’ – so you don’t have to scramble to catch the beginning of the calls you hear.

2. Keep your eyes on the action

The RememBird has a second micropohone which allows you to whisper notes about what you’re watching without stopping to look down at your notebook.

3. Listen to region-specific audio field guides through the built-in speaker or using headphones

Each RememBird comes pre-loaded with a regional audio field guide: European (in English or French), North American or Australian.

4. Manage your wildlife field recordings

The sophisticated software (available for PC and Mac users) allows you to manage your wildlife recordings,  log and identify species heard and build your own audio field guides for use in the field.

5. The RememBird II builds on the huge popularity of the RememBird I – including new features designed with users’ feedback in mind

Praise for Remembird I

For the size of the package, the RememBird provides a remarkably good recording (definitely adequate for identification later) and a convenient way of recording those valuable field notes. – American Bird Association

A marvelous innovation to take us into the next new frontier of birdwatching. – Martin Garner

Its versatility and ease of rapid use will make a real difference both for the professional and for the serious birder… You will quickly come to see how useful this is and will want to make sure it’s always to hand. – Ricard Gutiérrez, www.rarebirdspain.net

Is it worth it? Yes. It’s great for recording on-the-spot details of sightings while at the same time helping you to get to grips with bird sounds. – Dominic Couzens, BBC Wildlife Magazine

Designed 100% for birders, it would also be fantastic on safari, especially at night, for listening to the sounds of the bush. Elephants’ rumbles, bush baby shrieks and leopard coughs would all come through beautifully. – Wildlife Extra

Find out more about the RememBird II

Robinson Moth Traps are the preferred choice amongst many serious entomologists because they offer the highest attraction and retention rates.  There are various models available and NHBS offers a comprehensive range – we’ve put together this guide to Robinson Moth Traps to help you choose the right model. We have also included our top tips to improve the efficiency of your Robinson Trap in use.

Similarities

NHBS sells a variety of Robinson moth trap types, varying in both price and specifications.  However, before we get into the differences, let’s consider their similarities.  All our Robinson traps are;

• Supplied fully wired so you can start using them straight away
• Fitted with an IP56 waterproof control box housing the appropriate chokes and capacitors
• Supplied with a bulb (either mercury vapour (MV) or actinic depending on the trap chosen)
• Supplied with 240V electrics (including 3-pin plug) or 12V battery powered electrics
• Fitted with a rain guard for the mercury vapour bulb (MV Robinsons only)
• Fitted with flight interception baffles
• Complete with drainage hole in centre of base (holes are either too small to allow moths to escape or fitted with gauze)

Differences

Before we analyse each trap individually, remember that any one of these traps will attract moths in large numbers.  Robinson moth traps fitted with mercury vapour bulbs are the most successful traps for attracting and retaining moths.  On a very good night you can expect 500 – 1000 moths.  So, what are the types of Robinson we offer?

NHBS Robinson moth trap:  we’ve specially designed this trap to make it as cheap as possible for those on a budget or those new to mothing.  Robinson moth traps aren’t cheap and we’ve done all we can to reduce the price.  That said, the electrics are still the same as the other Robinson moth traps and it will still attract large numbers of moths.

Standard Robinson moth trap:  this long-term favourite is our most popular design and combines a superb design with affordability.  It is larger and more robust than the NHBS Robinson but lacks one or two features of the Heavy Duty Robinson.  This trap is an excellent choice for both professionals and enthusiasts.

Heavy Duty Robinson moth trap:  this trap is robust and durable, making it ideal for prolonged use.  It combines many great features of a Robinson trap to provide a durable design.

60W Actinic Robinson moth trap: this Robinson moth trap has actinic electrics rather than mercury vapour electrics.  It also has the same components and dimensions as the Standard Robinson moth trap.

Midi Robinson moth trap: the Midi Robinson moth trap is the latest edition to the NHBS range of Robinson moth traps.  It has the smallest dimensions of any Robinson moth trap and is available in either a Mercury Vapour or Actinic version.

Actinic vs Mercury Vapour

When choosing between mercury vapour and actinic electrics, there are several general rules to consider.  Mercury vapour bulbs will attract the largest amount of moths.  However, they are also quite bright.  If using the trap in a small back garden, you may want to opt for actinic electrics.  These produce less light and so are less likely to annoy the neighbours.  Mercury vapour bulbs run hot and so need to be protected from the rain to avoid shattering.  All our mercury vapour Robinson traps come with a rain guard as standard.  Actinic bulbs do not run hot and so do not need protecting from the rain. 

If you decide on actinic electrics, then you can choose between the 60W Actinic Robinson and the Actinic Midi Robinson.  The 60W Actinic Robinson is essentially the same trap as our Standard MV Robinson moth trap, but has 2 x 30W actinic bulbs that run off a mains supply or generator.  The Actinic Midi Robinson is smaller than the 60W Actinic Robinson.  The Midi has 1 x 15W actinic bulb that is designed to run off a 12V battery.  Thus it is much more portable as it does not have to be plugged into mains electrics, but won’t attract as many moths as it’s not as powerful.

If It’s Mercury Vapour You Want…!

If you decide on a Mercury Vapour Robinson moth trap, then NHBS has a range of options to cater for various situations and budgets.

Small is Beautiful

For those wanting the cheapest mercury vapour Robinson trap available, the MV Midi Robinson is the trap for you.  But just because it is the cheapest, it doesn’t mean the quality of the trap has been compromised.  Essentially it is the same trap as our best seller, the Standard Robinson moth trap, but with a few alterations to reduce the price.  Firstly, it’s smaller with a base diameter of 45cm compared to the 60cm base of the Standard Robinson trap.  This makes it more portable but means there’s less space for moths – a potential consideration if trapping on the busiest of nights.  The Midi Robinson has an 80W MV bulb, as opposed to the other MV Robinson traps that all run 125W MV bulbs.  This means the Midi is less powerful and so may attract fewer moths.  However, the build quality and components used are identical to those used on the Standard Robinson moth trap, so the Midi will still provide a durable and effective method of trapping moths.

125W MV Robinson Moth Traps – One of Three to Choose!

If you’ve decided against an actinic Robinson, and consider the Midi Robinson to be too small, or just simply want the most powerful Robinson trap available, then it’s a 125W MV Robinson you’ll be wanting!  There are three 125W MV Robinson traps to choose between; NHBS MV Robinson, Standard MV Robinson, and the Heavy Duty Robinson.  

When choosing between these three types of trap, you may want to consider the following;

Trap Electrics

All three trap designs fundamentally have the same 240V electrics with all the necessary chokes, capacitors, etc included.  As they all run a 125W mercury vapour bulb, there won’t be any noticeable differences in light intensity or attraction rates of moths.  Where they do differ is in the cable lengths.  The NHBS Robinson has a short input cable (that runs from the mains plug to the waterproof control box) of approximately 1.5 metres.  The Standard Robinson has approximately 5 metres of input cable, whilst the Heavy Duty Robinson has 15 metres of input cable.  So, you’ll probably need an extension cable for use with the NHBS Robinson.  The output cable (that runs from the control box to the bulb) is short for all three designs (1 – 2 metres).

Base

The bases of all three traps are made of black plastic and have drainage holes.  The NHBS Robinson has a smaller diameter base (approx. 50 cm) compared to the other two designs (approx. 60 cm).  Therefore, the NHBS Robinson has a smaller area for moth retention.  The base of the Heavy Duty Robinson is particularly durable and has a drainage hole fitted with gauze.  The Standard Robinson also has a drainage hole with gauze covering, whilst the NHBS Robinson has small holes drilled into the base to provide drainage.  All of the bases can be easily repaired in the event of minor cracks and breakages.

Collar

The collar of the NHBS Robinson is made of 3 mm black plastic and cannot be removed from the base.  Therefore, you won’t be able to see into the trap whilst it’s on, but the thick plastic will last for many years.  The collar of the Standard Robinson is made of 3 mm thick clear plastic and can be removed from the base.  You’ll be able to see inside whilst the trap is on.  The collar of the Heavy Duty Robinson is also made of 3 mm thick clear plastic and is removable from the base.  As you can remove the collars on the Standard and Heavy Duty Robinson, you can stack the bases into each other (for bases of the same model) for storage.  The collar of the NHBS Robinson is not removable so traps cannot be stacked inside each other.  The collars on all three traps are made of UV stable plastic and will be more resistant to brittleness; a common complaint for less robust collar designs.

Cone and Rain Guard

All three trap designs have a white cone and rain guard.  The NHBS and Heavy Duty Robinson traps have similar designs of cone with three flight interception baffles and a sturdy rain guard design which screws tight for rigidity.  The Standard Robinson has four flight interception baffles that are slightly more prominent in profile.  The rain guard, whilst having four supports, does not screw down for security.  Therefore, in high winds it may be prone to being blown over; although if high winds are predicted it’s unlikely you’ll be using the trap anyway!

If you’ve got any other questions regarding the three trap types then please contact customer services.

Hints and Tips

Regardless of the Robinson design, there are several ways to improve the efficiency of your Robinson moth trap.

1. The majority of adult moths are nectar feeders, so site your trap in areas full of native plants.  Make your garden into a wildlife haven and you’ll hopefully see a big increase in moth numbers.  You may have to accept increased damage to your plants as you should avoid the use of pesticides.
2. Improve the attractiveness of your garden by using plants that release their strongest scent during the evening, such as nicotinia and night-scented stock or honeysuckle.
3. Cold, clear nights (especially following a period of milder weather) will reduce the numbers of moths available for trapping.  Cloudy, warm nights are best, especially as it tends to be darker on cloudy nights and so less light pollution will be competing with the trap light.
4. Avoid trapping on bright nights with a full moon or near other sources of light, e.g. street lamps.
5. Avoid windy or wet nights as moths are less inclined to fly and to avoid damage to the trap.
6. If air masses are moving up from the South, southern coastal areas of the UK may see increased numbers of migrants being blown over from the continent.
7. Peak mothing months are July and August.  However, moths may be seen in substantial numbers at other times of the year, especially in rural areas.

Remember to think about the moths too!  Avoid trapping on consecutive nights in small gardens as you may be trapping the same moths, thus preventing them from feeding and mating.  You can reduce the chance of re-trapping the same moths by releasing moths at least 50 metres from the trap site.  Ideally release the moths into dense vegetation so that they have a daytime refuge from predators.  If leaving the trap overnight, try and check it early in the morning.  Occasionally you may find wasps and hornets in the trap.  Wasps may kill moths and hornets will eat them, but both wasps and hornets are docile in the morning so can be removed with minimal effort.  Avoid trapping near known hornets nests.  If you can’t inspect your trap until later in the day, ensure it is in a shady area and place a damp cloth or sponge in the bottom of the trap to reduce the chances of dehydration.

Trap Components

We also provide trap electrics, bulbs and individual trap component separately.  Not all components are listed on the website, so if you can’t find what you’re looking for then get in touch with customer services.  Similarly, if you have any other questions then please get in touch.

We’ve put together some answers to the most Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about bird nest boxes – follow this basic advice to ensure birds take up residence in your nest boxes.  You can browse the full range of nest boxes we sell online and if you’re keen to find out more – check out the BTO Nestbox Guide, it’s packed with essential information.

When is the best time to put up nest boxes?

Traditionally people have put up nest boxes in the early Spring so they are ready for the breeding season.  However, there really is no ‘best’ time to put up nest boxes.  By putting up nest boxes in the Autumn you can provide much needed winter refuges for roosting birds and increase the chance of them staying and nesting.  However, any box erected before the end of February stands a good chance of being occupied.  Even after February there is still a chance of occupancy.  Tits have been known to move in during April and house martins as late as July.  Whatever the time of year the box is erected, it is likely to be used for roosting so shouldn’t stay unoccupied for long.  Therefore, put your nestbox up as soon as it is available rather than leaving it in the shed!

Where should I put my nest box?

When it comes to nest boxes, the ‘where’ is much more important than the ‘when’.  Nest boxes must provide a safe comfortable environment, free from predators and the worst of the weather.  This may be difficult to achieve; a safe location out of reach of predators may also be exposed to the weather, so have a good think before you start bashing nails in.

Nest boxes can be fixed to walls, trees or buildings.  Fixing to artificial surfaces means the growth of the tree does not have to be considered (Schwegler nest boxes last at least 20-25 years; a significant amount of time in the life of a small tree).  If you’re planning any building work, remember that some Schwegler bird and bat boxes can also be built directly into walls and roofs.  Nest boxes placed on poles can be exposed to the weather.  Locating boxes out of reach of predators is virtually impossible (weasels can climb almost anything), but you can make it harder for the predator.  Boxes in gardens must be located where cats cannot get to them, making walls a better option than trees.  Prickly or thorny bushes can also help to deter unwanted visitors.  Some nest boxes also have anti-predator designs (e.g. Schwegler’s Tree Creeper nest box).  Avoid nest boxes that have a combined bird feeder, and even avoid placing your nest box too close to a feeder.  Visitors to the feeder will disturb the nesting birds and the feeder will attract unwanted attention from predators.

For many species the height of the box is not crucial.  However, by placing it at least several metres off the ground you can help prevent predators and human interference.  The direction of the entrance hole is not important; it is far better to ensure a clear flight path to the box.  Crucially, the box should be sheltered from the prevailing wind, rain and strong sunlight, so in most UK gardens aim for an aspect of northerly, easterly or south-easterly.  If possible, position the box with a slight downward angle to provide further protection from the rain.  Wherever you position the box, try to ensure that you can still get access to it for maintenance.  And finally, if possible, try to put it somewhere where you can see it so as to maximise your enjoyment of watching wild birds in your garden.

Is there anything else I can do to deter predators?

As already mentioned, location is the most important factor when trying to deter predators.  Whilst some mammals can climb walls, a blank wall is as safe a place as any.  Ensure that the box cannot be reached by a single jump from a nearby branch or the ground.  Box design can also help deter predators.  An entrance hole reinforced with a metal plate will prevent grey squirrels and some avian predators from enlarging the hole and gaining access to the nest.  Schwegler’s wood-concrete boxes are too hard for any predator to break through.  However, you can also reinforce a nest box yourself with metal and plastic sheeting, or even prickly twigs.  Not only can these prevent predators from getting to or finding purchase on the nest box, but they can also help insulate the box from the weather.  Deep boxes may prevent predators reaching in and grabbing nest occupants, although some tits have been known to fill up deep boxes with copious quantities of nesting material.  An overhanging roof will also help prevent predators reaching in.  If using open-fronted nest boxes, a balloon of chicken wire over the entrance can prevent some predators gaining access, although weasels will still be able to slip through.  If you live in an urban area, cats are likely to be the most common predator.  Gardeners have long since used various methods to exclude these unwanted visitors, such as pellets, electronic scarers and even lion dung (available from your nearest obliging zoo), all with varying degrees of success, so you may want to do some experimenting.

How do I manage the nest box?

A well-designed nest box will only need one annual clean in the Autumn.  Do not clean out nest boxes before 1st August as it is against the law and boxes may still be occupied.  Wait until Autumn and then remove the contents of the box, checking first that the box is definitely unoccupied.  Scatter the contents of the box on the ground some way from the box to help prevent parasites re-infesting the nest box.  Use a small brush or scraper to remove debris from the corners.  Do not wait until the winter to clean out nest boxes as birds may already be roosting in them.

How many nest boxes do I need?

The exact amount of boxes required will depend on the species and the surrounding habitat.  As a very general rule of thumb, start with ten assorted small boxes per hectare (ensure uniform spacing between boxes).  Keep adding several more boxes each season until some remain unused and hopefully you’ll hit on the correct density of boxes.  However, even if you only have space for one box, remember that one box is better than no box (providing it’s suitably located).  Many UK bird populations have plummeted to worryingly low levels and they need all the additional nesting habitat they can get.

Further information about individual nest boxes, including advice on positioning, can be found alongside each nestbox in our range.  If you have any other questions then please get in touch with customer services.

It has never been easier to observe and enjoy the 16 species of British Bat in your garden or local wildlife patch. Bats navigate and hunt in the dark by emitting high-frequency ultrasonic calls – you can listen to their calls using a bat detector. A ‘heterodyne’ bat detector is the ideal starting point to listen to bat behaviour and make species identifications.

We also recommend the Guide to British Bats which includes descriptions of bat calls, call frequency ranges by species and useful flight pictures – essential information for getting the most out of your bat detector.

NHBS Quick Guide – Bat Detecting

1. Bat Detectors
2. Bestselling Bat Books
3. Must Have Bat Books – Coming Soon
4. Bat Conservation

Browse Bats – Chiroptera

Browse our wide selection of Wildlife Equipment

GPS handsets have become standard field items for much routine survey work. It is quick and easy to record sighting locations and download the information when back from the field for sample identification or analysis with GIS software. Geotagging (adding location metadata to a file or item) has also become increasingly common for digital photographs and video clips – these data can then be overlaid on geographical web services such as Google Earth.

Choosing a GPS can be bewildering due to the range of models and features on offer. This handy NHBS Quick Guide highlights the key features of the GPS models we stock.  Please feel free to contact us by email or phone if you would like further assistance in choosing the right GPS for your needs.

Affordable mapping GPS with built in memory, 500 waypoints and 14 hour battery life.

Mapping GPS with built in memory, compass, barometric altimeter, 500 waypoints and 14 hour battery life.

Mapping GPS with expandable SD card memory (not included – you will need to buy a separate SD memory card for this device), compass, barometric altimeter, 1000 waypoints and 25 hour battery life.

Larger screen mapping GPS with expandable SD card memory (included), 1000 waypoints and 18 hour battery life.

Larger screen mapping GPS with expandable SD card memory (included), compass, barometric altimeter, 1000 waypoints and 18 hour battery life.

Large high resolution mapping GPS with built in memory and expandable SD card memory (not included), compass, barometric altimeter, 1000 waypoints and 15 hours battery life.

Frequently Asked Questions about GPS

These are all mapping GPS – what does that mean?

All mapping GPS models come with the Atlantic Highway basemap. This includes Europe, extreme western Russia, Africa, and the Middle East, and covers an area from N75 to S60 Latitude, W30 to E60 Longitude. Also included is a high-level worldwide map with political boundaries and major cities.

The standard global map coverage is:

• Oceans, rivers and lakes (greater than 30 square miles)
• Principal cities and a small amount of smaller cities and towns
• Major motorways and/or interstates and principal highways
• Political boundaries (state and international borders)
• Large and medium airports
• Urban areas greater than 200K

In Iceland, Great Britain, Baltic States, Denmark, Germany, Benelux, France, Spain, Portugal, Switzerland, Austria, Italy and Southern Africa (up to S20 Latitude) the basemap also includes:

• Small lakes, major streams and rivers
• Urban areas
• Railroads
• Regional arterial roadways
• Exits for major motorways and/or interstates (Europe Only)
• Small cities and towns

Many users purchase additional mapping software to download onto their GPS handset. In the UK the Topo Map of Great Britain extends the basic base map on your GPS handset with topographical data from Ordnance Survey.

What accessories should I get?

Our most popular accessories are carry cases to protect your GPS from the elements e.g. the eTrex Carry case & Map60 Carry Case. You may also find a neck strap useful to stop your GPS wandering off.

Waypoints – what should I consider when choosing a GPS model?

If you are using your GPS for survey data then you need to make sure that you have enough waypoints to suit your project. For example, the eTrex Venture HC has 500 waypoints, whereas the Map60Cx has 1,000.

What books can help me get the best out of GPS?

The best guides for beginners are:
Getting Started with your GPS
Using Digital Maps and GPS in Fieldwork
Navigating with GPS
For more advanced users:
GPS for Land Surveyors
Fundamentals of Geographic Information Systems

What’s WAAS and how does it differ from older GPS accuracy?

All the new Garmin models are WAAS enabled. WAAS stands for Wide Area Augmentation System – it’s a US system of satellites and ground stations that provide GPS signal corrections, giving you even better position accuracy. How much better? A WAAS-capable receiver can give you a position accuracy of better than three meters 95 percent of the time.

The WAAS system is for North America, in Europe the recently launched Euro Geostationary Navigation Overlay Service (EGNOS) does the same job and your WAAS enabled GPS handset is fully compatible with EGNOS meaning you will get accuracy of <3m in Europe.

In parts of the world without an enhanced GPS service resolution is typically 5-15m.

Do I need a cable to connect one of these GPS to my computer?

No – all of these models include a USB cable to connect your GPS to you computer.

I have an older model without a cable – what do I need to connect to my PC?

If you have an older GPS handset without a USB cable then you will need two additional cables to connect to USB: first the Garmin eTrex PC Interface Cable to connect to a 9-pin serial port. If you have a newer PC without the 9-pin serial port then you will also need a Garmin eTrex Serial to USB converter cable. Given that the cost of these cables is quite high most customers end up replacing their GPS handset.

Browse our full range of GPS handsets
Browse our full range of wildlife equipment

Take a closer look at the beautiful butterflies of your region with one of the wide variety of butterfly nets offered by NHBS.

From the portable Crushable Pocket Butterfly Net to the heavy-duty Large Butterfly Net, we offer a butterfly net for every need (and for every age – check out the Children’s Butterfly Net). With these nets, you can safely capture and examine butterflies and other insects, then release them back into the wild.

We list over 1500 lepidoptera books at NHBS, including these Butterfly Bestsellers.

Large Butterfly Net

This complete butterfly net set includes a 47cm (18 inch) diameter frame, a deep net bag, and a 60cm extension handle. The extension handle can be removed from the frame for transport, or to use the net frame/bag without the extension where extra length is not required. The net bag is constructed from soft Terylene material that will minimise damage to insect wings and stand up well to UV degradation. Available in both white and black netting. This large, strong portable net is also suitable for catching bats.

Standard Butterfly Net

This complete butterfly net set includes a 37cm (14 inch) diameter frame, a deep net bag, and a 60cm extension handle. The extension handle can be removed from the frame for transport, or to use the net frame/bag without the extension where extra length is not required. The net bag is constructed from soft Terylene material that will minimise damage to insect wings and stand up well to UV degradation. Available in both white and black netting.

Small (Children’s) Butterfly Net

A lightweight butterfly net well suited for children and educational use. The wooden handle provides good grip and reach. The net bag is constructed from soft Terylene material that will minimise damage to insect wings and stand up well to UV degradation.

Butterfly Net and Ultra-Light Frame

The net handle is black moulded plastic on a black plastic coated aluminium frame. There is a hook on elastic in the end of the handle to hang the net from a belt or rucksack. The net is attached by velcro and can be easily removed to wash. It is very light fitting a “spoon shaped” frame 38 x 28 cms. and 50 cms deep. The net material is olive green (camouflage colour) mosquito size mesh.

Lightweight Folding Butterfly Net (Small)

The Lightweight Folding Butterfly Net can be used with its telescopic handle half extended for close sweeps, and fully extended to lengthen your reach to over 1m. The net is highly portable and folds down into its own bag for carrying (it’s small enough to fit into a typical rucksack). The frame is robust and designed to withstand years of field use.

Crushable Pocket Butterfly Net

A butterfly net with a spring steel frame which twists up, allowing the net to be collapsed and folded to a pocket size (instructions provided). The net is supplied with a short brass handle for general use; this can quickly be extended by inserting a stick or a piece of wood to into the handle.

Check out our full range of Butterfly Nets

Browse our wide selection of butterfly and entomology titles in Arthropods and Insects

Browse our extended range of Wildlife Equipment

For the last two weeks we have been in the process of upgrading our IT system. The first customer facing aspect of this ‘went live’ last night in the form of a new shopping basket and checkout procedure. The whole checkout process is faster, there is much more information and you can save your billing and shipping address information for future orders.

In the near future you will be able to set up wish lists, check open orders, spend gift vouchers, view completed orders and manage your information from our site. We look forward to announcing new developments as they happen.