Celebrating 60 years and Counting of the Longworth Mammal Trap

The Longworth mammal trap was invented in 1949 and is celebrating over 60 years of service. As the most widely used and respected small mammal trap in use in Europe, it is familiar to many of us. But how well do you actually know it? Read on for some facts on the Longworth trap you may or may not know!

The Longworth mammal trap was invented in 1949 and is celebrating over 60 years of service.  As the most widely used and respected small mammal trap in use in Europe, it is familiar to many of us.  But how well do you actually know it?  Read on for some facts on the Longworth trap you may or may not know!

Why is it called the Longworth trap?

Longworth TrapUnfortunately it’s not because Mr Longworth invented it.  The Longworth trap was invented by Chitty & Kempson (1949).   At the time they were working at the Department for Zoological Field Studies at the University of Oxford.  They arranged commercial production through another Oxford-based organisation, the Longworth Scientific Instrument Co. Ltd, and the trap took the same name.  The Longworth Scientific Instrument Co. was founded in 1943 by another group of Oxford academics.  Personnel from the Department of Anaesthetics formed the company to manufacture technical medical equipment such as the Macintosh Laryngoscope.  As the Longworth trap required similar manufacturing processes, it made sense for the Longworth Co. to manufacture Chitty & Kempson’s trap.  Due to its strong geographical links, you may also have heard the Longworth trap called the Oxford trap, although a prerequisite for this is a long memory, even longer beard and elbow patches!

Are Longworth traps good for sampling shrews?

Longworth trap with shrew holeTraditionally there has been a belief that pitfalls rather than small mammal traps such as the Longworth should be used for catching small shrews (e.g. Williams & Braun, 1983).  However, recent evidence may suggest that this is not always the case (e.g. Anthony et al., 2005).  Every trap design will introduce some type of bias, so the key is to ensure as fair a test as possible.  Comparing two datasets obtained using different trap designs will obviously introduce error.  If you are particularly concerned about small shrews then consider using Longworth traps in tandem with pitfall traps (using drift fences with the pitfalls will generally increase success).  Remember that vegetation type and even trap age may possibly influence trap success.  The fact that Longworth traps are incredibly durable with many still in use after 30 years of service makes them ideal for repeat long term surveys.  And remember, you won’t catch any small shrews with the Longworth trap with optional shrew escape hole!

How do I bait the trap?

The bait smell will initially attract the mammal to the trap so try to handle the bait as little as possible, especially if you’ve got smLongworth trapelly (perfumed or otherwise!) hands.  Shrews and other insectivorous mammals will need invertebrates; try blowfly pupae available from fishing tackle shops.  Otherwise seeds, raisins, barley, oats or even chocolate will do.  By using fruit or vegetables (apples and carrot can work well), you can also provide an essential source of water for the trapped mammal.  The type of bait used is probably of little importance in trap success (Sealander & James, 1958), and by using the same bait in all traps the effect of bait type will be nullified.

Acclimatising mammals to the trap is particularly important, especially when sampling more timid species.  The Longworth is ideal for this as it can be set not to trigger when an animal enters.  Bait the trap in the ‘non-trigger’ setting and leave for several days for this acclimatisation to occur.  But remember, by doing this you may attract other individuals from surrounding areas and inflate population density estimates.

Also remember to provide some bedding in the trap; hay or shredded paper work best.  If using leaves (or indeed anything else), make sure they are dry as damp nest material can chill the animal.  Change the bedding after every capture to ensure a dry clean trap for the next unlucky victim.

Where should I place the trap?

Place the trap in a sheltered secluded location, ideally in thick vegetation, but make sure you can find it again.  A bright marker on the trap can aid location of it but can also make it more conspicuous to the public.  Place the leading edge of the trap flush with the ground to encourage animals to enter.  Ensure the nesting box is at a slight angle to encourage urine to drain away.  When placing the trap, look out for signs of mammal activity (droppings, runs through vegetation, chewed food, etc).  These are unlikely to be in the middle of clearings as small mammals tend to prefer margins, hedges, etc.  Usually multiple traps will be deployed.  By deploying in a grid formation you will get a better idea of population density, whilst straight line deployment is useful for covering a cross section of habitats or following linear features (hedgerows, boundaries, etc).

Is there a cheaper alternative?

Mammal Trip-TrapLongworth traps are expensive and the initial cost of buying the traps can be high.  However, it is worth remembering than Longworth traps will last decades if looked after properly so the cost of the trap over its lifetime is actually quite cheap.  Nevertheless, a cheap alternative is the Mammal Trip-Trap.  This is a simpler trap to the Longworth and designed for occasional use.  It is made from robust plastic rather than the Longworth’s aluminium, but also features a trapping tunnel and nest box.  However, as woodmice have on occasion been known to chew through the aluminium on a Longworth trap, the plastic trip-trap may be severely damaged unless checked very frequently.

Longworth trapWhichever trap you use, remember to check them at least every 12 hours (and even less for shrews as they are particularly prone to mortality in traps).  You also need a licence to trap shrews.  If you have any other queries on the Longworth trap or Trip-Trap then please get in touch.

References

Anthony NM et al. (2005) Comparative effectiveness of Longworth and Sherman live traps. Wildlife Society Bulletin 33: 1018-1026
Chitty D & Kempson (1949) Prebaiting small mammals and a new design of live trap. Ecology 30: 536-542
Sealander JA & James D (1958) Relative efficiency of different small mammal traps. Journal of Mammalogy 39: 215-223
Whittaker JC & Feldhammer (2000) Effectiveness of three types of live trap for Blarina (Insectivora: Soricidiae) and description of new trap design. Mammalia 64: 118-124
Williams DF & Braun SE (1983) Comparison of pitfall and conventional traps for sampling small mammal populations. Journal of Wildlife Management 47: 841-845

Five FAQs About Attracting Birds to Your Nest Box

We’ve put together some answers to the most Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about bird nest boxes – follow this basic advice to ensure birds take up residence in your nest boxes.  You can browse the full range of nest boxes we sell online and if you’re keen to find out more – check out the BTO Nestbox Guide, it’s packed with essential information.

When is the best time to put up nest boxes?

Barn Owl Nest BoxTraditionally people have put up nest boxes in the early Spring so they are ready for the breeding season.  However, there really is no ‘best’ time to put up nest boxes.  By putting up nest boxes in the Autumn you can provide much needed winter refuges for roosting birds and increase the chance of them staying and nesting.  However, any box erected before the end of February stands a good chance of being occupied.  Even after February there is still a chance of occupancy.  Tits have been known to move in during April and house martins as late as July.  Whatever the time of year the box is erected, it is likely to be used for roosting so shouldn’t stay unoccupied for long.  Therefore, put your nestbox up as soon as it is available rather than leaving it in the shed!

Where should I put my nest box?

When it comes to nest boxes, the ‘where’ is much more important than the ‘when’.  Nest boxes must provide a safe comfortable environment, free from predators and the worst of the weather.  This may be difficult to achieve; a safe location out of reach of predators may also be exposed to the weather, so have a good think before you start bashing nails in.

Tree Creeper Nest BoxNest boxes can be fixed to walls, trees or buildings.  Fixing to artificial surfaces means the growth of the tree does not have to be considered (Schwegler nest boxes last at least 20-25 years; a significant amount of time in the life of a small tree).  If you’re planning any building work, remember that some Schwegler bird and bat boxes can also be built directly into walls and roofs.  Nest boxes placed on poles can be exposed to the weather.  Locating boxes out of reach of predators is virtually impossible (weasels can climb almost anything), but you can make it harder for the predator.  Boxes in gardens must be located where cats cannot get to them, making walls a better option than trees.  Prickly or thorny bushes can also help to deter unwanted visitors.  Some nest boxes also have anti-predator designs (e.g. Schwegler’s Tree Creeper nest box).  Avoid nest boxes that have a combined bird feeder, and even avoid placing your nest box too close to a feeder.  Visitors to the feeder will disturb the nesting birds and the feeder will attract unwanted attention from predators.

For many species the height of the box is not crucial.  However, by placing it at least several metres off the ground you can help prevent predators and human interference.  The direction of the entrance hole is not important; it is far better to ensure a clear flight path to the box.  Crucially, the box should be sheltered from the prevailing wind, rain and strong sunlight, so in most UK gardens aim for an aspect of northerly, easterly or south-easterly.  If possible, position the box with a slight downward angle to provide further protection from the rain.  Wherever you position the box, try to ensure that you can still get access to it for maintenance.  And finally, if possible, try to put it somewhere where you can see it so as to maximise your enjoyment of watching wild birds in your garden.

Is there anything else I can do to deter predators?

Forest Nest BoxAs already mentioned, location is the most important factor when trying to deter predators.  Whilst some mammals can climb walls, a blank wall is as safe a place as any.  Ensure that the box cannot be reached by a single jump from a nearby branch or the ground.  Box design can also help deter predators.  An entrance hole reinforced with a metal plate will prevent grey squirrels and some avian predators from enlarging the hole and gaining access to the nest.  Schwegler’s wood-concrete boxes are too hard for any predator to break through.  However, you can also reinforce a nest box yourself with metal and plastic sheeting, or even prickly twigs.  Not only can these prevent predators from getting to or finding purchase on the nest box, but they can also help insulate the box from the weather.  Deep boxes may prevent predators reaching in and grabbing nest occupants, although some tits have been known to fill up deep boxes with copious quantities of nesting material.  An overhanging roof will also help prevent predators reaching in.  If using open-fronted nest boxes, a balloon of chicken wire over the entrance can prevent some predators gaining access, although weasels will still be able to slip through.  If you live in an urban area, cats are likely to be the most common predator.  Gardeners have long since used various methods to exclude these unwanted visitors, such as pellets, electronic scarers and even lion dung (available from your nearest obliging zoo), all with varying degrees of success, so you may want to do some experimenting.

How do I manage the nest box?

A well-designed nest box will only need one annual clean in the Autumn.  Do not clean out nest boxes before 1st August as it is against the law and boxes may still be occupied.  Wait until Autumn and then remove the contents of the box, checking first that the box is definitely unoccupied.  Scatter the contents of the box on the ground some way from the box to help prevent parasites re-infesting the nest box.  Use a small brush or scraper to remove debris from the corners.  Do not wait until the winter to clean out nest boxes as birds may already be roosting in them.

How many nest boxes do I need?

The exact amount of boxes required will depend on the species and the surrounding habitat.  As a very general rule of thumb, start with ten assorted small boxes per hectare (ensure uniform spacing between boxes).  Keep adding several more boxes each season until some remain unused and hopefully you’ll hit on the correct density of boxes.  However, even if you only have space for one box, remember that one box is better than no box (providing it’s suitably located).  Many UK bird populations have plummeted to worryingly low levels and they need all the additional nesting habitat they can get.

Further information about individual nest boxes, including advice on positioning, can be found alongside each nestbox in our range.  If you have any other questions then please get in touch with customer services.

Save 22% on the Latest New Naturalist

For a short time only, save 22% on the latest volume in the legendary New Naturalist series – Books and Naturalists. This volume, number 112 in the series, will be published in early February 2010 – order your copy today.

Natural history, perhaps more than any other pursuit or study, has always relied very heavily on books to help it develop and gain momentum. Without a way of defining and categorizing the many thousands of species of plants and animals, the subject could not exist as it does today. In Books and Naturalists, Dr. David Allen explores the world of nature publishing through the course of history, from its very early days in the dawn of publishing, through various significant new discoveries and into the birth of the New Naturalist series itself, highlighting the extraordinary personal stories behind many seminal works.

We are pleased to offer great savings on this book – order your copy today and save 22%!

Browse the New Naturalist series

Set up a Standing Order for future volumes in the New Naturalist series

Collins Bird Guide – New Edition Now in Stock at NHBS!

The new second edition of the classic Collins Bird Guide has now arrived at NHBS – get your copy today

Covering Britain and Europe, this book provides all the information needed to identify any species at any time of year, with detailed text on size, habitat, range, identification and voice. Accompanying every species entry is a distribution map and colour illustrations (over 3500 in all) to show the species in all the major plumages (male, female, immature, in flight, at rest, feeding).

The Collins Bird Guide is written by Lars Svensson, one of Europe’s leading ornithologists (with translation by David Christie), and illustrated by two of the world’s finest bird illustrators – Killian Mullarney and Dan Zetterstrom.

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The Top Wildlife and Natural History Titles of 2009 – Plus Customer Favourites

First up, our Editor’s Choice of the Top 10 Best Wildlife and Natural History Books of the year, followed by Customer Favourites – the most popular books of 2009.

Editor’s Top 10 Books of 2009

1. Vegetative Key to the British Flora
Nothing short of a revolution in plant identification

2. Field Guide to the Birds of Brazil
The first serious field guide to Brazil’s avifauna

3. Bats of Britain, Europe and Northwest Africa
Comprehensive and beautifully illustrated

4. Colour Identification Edition of Moths of the British Isles
Welcome new edition of Skinner’s classic

5. Handbook of the Mammals of the World, Volume 1: Carnivores
The first volume in a stunning series… can’t wait for the next instalment

6. On the Origin of Species: The Illustrated Edition
The best of too many Darwin books published for the double anniversary

7. Lichens of Great Britain and Ireland
A colossal undertaking – keys to 1873 species

8. Atlas of Wader Populations in Africa and Western Eurasia
Essential conservation info (for Ramsar/CMS) in a format accessible to serious birders

9. Sustainable Energy without the Hot Air
Clearly written and clearly costed solutions to our energy/climate conundrum

10. Biology of Coral Reefs
Brilliant academic overview of this threatened habitat

Customer Favourites
These are the most popular books of 2009 at NHBS by subject, as chosen by our customers: Birding, Bird Conservation, Botany, Mammals, Natural History and Zoology (including Entomology bestsellers). You’ll find an eclectic mix of geographic and taxonomic interest, with books from publishers all over the world. We’ve also included the Top 10 wildlife equipment from our rapidly expanding range of field kit.

Enjoy browsing, and please feel free to add your own recommendations for Top Titles in the comments section at the end of this post.

Birding
1. Wildfowl – New Naturalist Volume 110
2. Handbook of the Birds of the World, Volume 14
3. Field Guide to the Birds of Brazil
4. Field Guide to the Birds of East Asia
5. Shorebirds of the Northern Hemisphere
6. Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo
7. Field Guide to the Birds of the Horn of Africa
8. Field Guide to the Birds of South America: Passerines
9. Birdwatching Guide to Oman
10. History of Ornithology

Bird Conservation
1. Atlas of Wader Populations in Africa and Western Eurasia
2. Bird Ringing
3. Best Practice Guide for Wild Bird Monitoring Schemes
4. Ultimate Site Guide to Scarcer British Birds
5. Raptors: A Field Guide for Surveys and Monitoring
6. Status of Birds in Britain and Ireland
7. Bird Conservation and Agriculture
8. Rare Birds Where and When, Volume 1: Sandgrouse to New World Orioles
9. Important Bird Areas in the Caribbean
10. Avian Invasions

Mammals
1. Handbook of the Mammals of the World, Volume 1: Carnivores
2. Bats of Britain, Europe and Northwest Africa
3. Mammals of Europe, North Africa and the Middle East
4. Field Guide to the Mammals of South-East Asia
5. Guide to British Bats
6. British Mammals (Audio CD)
7. Lesser Horseshoe Bat
8. Field Guide to Indian Mammals
9. Mammals of the British Isles
10. Living with Dormice

Zoology
1. Field Guide to the Larvae and Exuviae of British Dragonflies, Volume 2 (Volume 1 also available)
2. Key to the Identification of British Centipedes
3. Collins Butterfly Guide
4. Britain’s Reptiles and Amphibians
5. RES Handbook Volume 4 Part 2: The Carabidae
6. New Holland European Reptile and Amphibian Guide
7. Insects of Britain and Western Europe
8. SBF Volume 58: Centipedes
9. Dangerous Marine Animals
10. Diversity of Fishes

Botany
1. Vegetative Key to the British Flora
2. Grasses of the British Isles
3. Collins Flower Guide
4. Lichens of Great Britain and Ireland
5. Sedges of the British Isles
6. Montane Heathland Lichen Guide
7. Water-Starworts Callitriche of Europe
8. Funga Nordica
9. Orchids of Britain and Ireland
10. Mountain Flowers and Trees of Caucasia

Natural History
1. Dartmoor: New Naturalist Volume 111
2. Art of Peter Scott
3. Art of the New Naturalists
4. Wildlife Photographer of the Year, Portfolio 19
5. Living Britain DVD
6. On the Origin of Species: The Illustrated Edition
7. Wild France
8. Nature’s Great Events – DVD
9. Wild Life
10. Life – DVD (David Attenborough)

Top 10 Equipment
1. Opticron Hand lens, 18mm, 20x magnification
2. Crushable Pocket Butterfly Net
3. Magenta Bat 5
4. WeatherWriter A4 Portrait
5. Bug Box Magnifying Pot
6. Batbox Baton
7. Collecting Pot (Bundle of 5)
8. Pooter
9. 5-Hole Small Bird Ringing (Banding) Pliers
10. One-Man Wildlife Photography Hide

The Moonlander Moth Trap touches down at NHBS


183298The Moonlander Moth Trap & Goodden Light
The Moonlander is a lightweight, portable trap well suited to remote fieldworkers and travelling entomologists. Its relatively low price compared with other traps has also given it a popular following with first-time moth trappers.  The trap packs flat and weighs only 1.47 kg (including light and electrics but not battery). The Moonlander comes paired with the revolutionary Goodden Light – in field trials in remote areas this has shown itself to be more effective than other portable lights. With no need for mains supplies, weighty cables or generators this trap is super versatile and super portable.

The Moonlander design is somewhat different from many of the other traps on the market. It features a ground floor entrance that increases retention as moths cannot fly up and out of the trap.

We offer the Moonlander & Goodden Light together as a set (battery not included) or you can fit your own MV electrics or actinic electrics in the Moonlander. You can also buy the Goodden light separately to add to an existing trap.

More about the Goodden Light
The Goodden Light runs off a 12 v battery (not included), has a light sensor to turn itself off in daylight and generates more ultraviolet than an actinic bulb whilst using less power.

Buying Options

Buy the Moonlander Trap & Goodden Light (most popular option) –  £269.99

Buy the Moonlander Trap and add your own electrics – £109

Buy the Goodden light to add to an existing trap – £169.99

Accessories

12 v Battery

Battery Charger

Status of the Birds of Britain and Ireland – NHBS Special Offer

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We are pleased to announce the impending publication of The Status of Birds in Britain and Ireland. This important new bird conservation title gives a detailed assessment of the status and distribution of every species on the British and Irish lists for the first time since 1971. This book will be available in late December 2009 – Preorder your copy today and save £7!

Also new at NHBS is the latest Important Bird Areas directory featuring Mainland China. This book is now in stock at NHBS – Get your copy today

Browse other recent Bird Conservation titles

Field Guide to the Birds of Brazil – Now at NHBS

Brazil’s bird diversity is one of the richest in the world. The recently published Field Guide to the Birds of Brazil is the first comprehensive field guide to this splendid and elusive avifauna, with more than 1800 up-to-date accounts treat the Yellow-nosed Albatross to the Sombre Hummingbird, the Ash-throated Gnat-eater to the Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, Nighthawks and Jacamars to Motmots, Puffbirds, and Peppershrikes. They are all here – every species and many subspecies found in each region of Brazil – with special attention given to the 218 Brazilian endemics.

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This book is currently on special offer; get your copy today – and save £3! (this special offer must end 31/12/2009)

Night Vision Scopes at NHBS

Night vision scopes work by collecting available light, normally from the moon and stars, and amplifying this to generate a meaningful image. The main component of any scope is the Image Intensifier, a vacuum tube that differs in design depending on the generation of scope (more info on generations later!). The image intensifier collects particles of light (photons) and focuses them onto a photocathode. The photocathode absorbs these photons and converts them to electrons, which are subsequently amplified and projected onto a green phosphor screen at the rear of the tube. To do this the photocathode needs a power supply, normally from commercially available batteries.

When the electrons hit the phosphor screen, the screen emits visible green light that the user can see. Therefore, you do not look through a night vision scope, but rather look at an amplified electronic image on a phosphor screen. As the phosphor screen emits light in exactly the same pattern and intensity as the light collected by the objective lens, the screen image corresponds to the actual scene in front of the scope. The phosphor screen is coloured green because the human eye can differentiate more shades of green than any other phosphor colour.

There is a bewildering array of night vision scopes available for amateur, commercial and military purposes. NHBS has selected a range of scopes and accessories that match the needs of amateur and commercial users so we hope there is no chance you are going to get shot at whilst using them! All our scopes have been tried and tested by wildlife and land management professionals and so provide versatile and durable solutions to seeing at night. However, even amongst our range there are subtle differences that make some scopes more suitable than others for certain uses. Below is a list of criteria to consider when making your choice. If you are still unsure, then please contact us as we would be happy to provide further advice.

For more on this blog, see the NHBS Quick Guide: Night Vision Scopes

Art of the New Naturalists – Now at NHBS

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This new book features the history of the highly distinctive cover designs of the legendary British natural history series – now 112 volumes and counting!

Early New Naturalist cover designs were created by Clifford and Rosemary Ellis, with more recent covers by Robert Gillmor. Browse Art of the New Naturalists and learn more about the creation of the cover designs for this series – from concept to creation.

Art of the New Naturalists is currently on special offer – get your copy today and save 25%

See sample pages from this book

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Save 22% on the latest New Naturalist volumes – Dartmoor (Volume 111, now available from NHBS) and Nature Publishing in Britain (Volume 112, due to be published in November 2009).